Oil Pressure Gauge?

Police Cars

  1. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

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    the 236 is the NOS one I have and is for 76. The 102 is 77 (up maybe). Compare them and you will see the differences as at first glance they appear the same. the 236 is much harder to find. None on parts voice. I believe I have a good used 76 one also.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2019
  2. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    The 102 board is for '79 also.

    The wiring on Aspen's is better than a '70 E-body. Everyone I knew that had an E-body way back when, including me, had constant wiring and electrical troubles. I think the wiring was made out of self-destructing materials. We always wondered, jokingly, if Chrysler had used Lucas electrics on those cars. You know, Lucas the Prince of Darkness?:eek:
     
  3. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    Although I want to get the 76 board, I just pulled an 1102 board out of a 76 and it was all functioning before I parted it.

    I dont think the 76 board would allow all to work on a 77,8,9 harness by looking at the plugs for each and what has dead holes on certain pins.

    Its pretty clear as well that mopar used more the one vendor for the boards as here are two 1102-s on embossed, one stamped and clearly although layed out the same they were made a bit different.

    DSC00051.JPG

    DSC00053.JPG
     
  4. volare 77

    volare 77 Well-Known Member

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    I never even tried the 76 board in my 77 because of what you said. You may be right, maybe the 77 board will work on the 76 but not the other way around. Then the superseded number(102) should work on the 76 but the 236 will not work on a 77 up. I was sold the older number (236) saying it would work on the 77 up which wasn`t the case as you seen the pin and wiring in the plug didn`t match up. Also without having it in front of me, I think the bulb socket location was different IIRC
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2019
  5. Ele115

    Ele115 Active Member

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    On mine (two of them) I DO have gauges AND the red idiot light. It's the same as a non AHB, the small sender like any other M body then the bigger one for the gauge they added at the bottom left of the dash (Sender at the back of the engine.) One of mine wasn't working when I got the car, I found it was because of teflon tape on the threads so I just cleaned it up and reinstalled. If yours reads max oil temp at all time it's a short, either in the sender or the wire.
     
  6. Ele115

    Ele115 Active Member

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    Parts are hit or miss. Luckily some of the Volare stuff fits, or it would be a LOT worse. Not like the real collectible cars where you can just order everything from a catalog
     
  7. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    If anyone might have one of the fitting blocks that is the rear of the motor type, id really like to buy it.

    I think at one time I fabbed a lil fitting block but im not sure I will find it and although its hard to see id rather have a factory part.
     
  8. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    DSC00053m.JPG
    One area I’m not knowledgeable about, but is the number just below the part number, the vender/supplier number? If that is correct vender code, then it appears both were made by same supplier.


    I have a couple – but to be honest, it is in a garage that is stuffed/packed and will take me at least a couple of months to get access to them. For a while, I had a sizeable collection of them – for they are a commonly damaged item after engine install. If you unscrew one and it comes out tilted, then it has been damaged/cracked where the threads meet the body and it will leak a copious (large/excessive) amount of oil, out.

    I highly recommend to anyone removing/installing a V8 engine on any Mopar equipped with oil gauge and light, to remove that adaptor FIRST and install it LAST. It takes ZERO pressure to crack those adaptors and they are getting hard to find. I would say if you are removing (or installing) the engine with transmission out in any car/truck in which you are tilting the engine, then you have a 99.99% chance of cracking that adaptor. Once cracked, there is nothing you can do, its toast.
    To recap, if you have a fitting like this, please remove it first (and stall it last) or you WILL RUIN it!

    I have seen both styles before and didn’t put two and two together, that one is with small block vacuum advance and other is without. Big blocks (without oil cooler) use the “without vacuum advance” version.

    A person can fabricate an adaptor if you have access to brass fittings and have more patience than I have.

    If a person is going to add an add-on gauge (mechanical or electrical) and you also plan on keeping the oil pressure light operational, then you might want to also find an oil fitting like the one (below).

    79 PM pg 8-110a.PNG
    (L to R) 318 without vacuum advance (ie: computer controlled), 318/360 w/vacuum advance & /6.
    79 PM pg 8-111a.PNG
    From my '79 parts manual.
    I have seen these fittings made of steel and from aluminum (both can be broken by engine install, but otherwise are hard to damage.
    All three ends use SAE pipe thread - so use of Teflon tape is recommended.
    Note: anytime you use Teflon tape (for any usage), make sure the edge of tape starts on the threads and don't leave some below the threads, where part of it can get into the sensor hole or could break off and circulate inside of engine.
    BudW
     
  9. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    One other thing about teflon tape (or paste), you need also to be sure at least a couple threads are bare since the sending units/switches ground the circuit through the housing. I suppose by tightening them, metal to metal contact would happen anyways most likely but, you can never have too good a ground.