Dylan Bobek
Active Member
My dodge aspen has a Chrysler Córdoba 360 in it what oil weight should I use, I just got the car
Oil weight and amount for 360
- Thread starter Dylan Bobek
- Start date
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
10W30. Should take 5 quarts. Some people run thicker oil in warmer months or in older engines.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
I believe that would be flat tappet setup so I would recommend a high zinc oil like Valvoline VR1.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Walmart shelf oil in a low rpm 360 farm truck, 50k miles since rebuild. Stock valve springs never an additive.
MiradaCMX80
Well-Known Member
I use Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil. I called Comp Cams when I got my Mirada and explained to them "Old, 83k original 318. Sat from '89 to '17. Need zinc?" YES. They referred me to Joe Gibbs, which recommended HR5 "hot rod" oil in a 10W-40. Mineral based and low detergent so the zinc can cling to the parts. I had a noisy lifter that has since quieted down and the car seems very happy with it. It's old skool seal friendly, too. Wix 51068 handles the filtration duties. YMMV, but in ANY flat tappet car engine, I believe you should use a high zinc made for them.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
The race oil driven site says stockers are ok any api oil. . This is one of those topics that people, even oil companies, will never fully agree upon.
The op didnt say if he was a stocker or modded.
Driven Says in the "Truth about Zinc" write up.
Are you ready for some good news? The key to how much and what type of Zinc your engine needs depends on your engine’s valve train. If you have a stock valve train and no other performance modifications, then an API licensed oil is all you need. Every API licensed oil will protect stock engines under normal street driving cycles.
The op didnt say if he was a stocker or modded.
Driven Says in the "Truth about Zinc" write up.
Are you ready for some good news? The key to how much and what type of Zinc your engine needs depends on your engine’s valve train. If you have a stock valve train and no other performance modifications, then an API licensed oil is all you need. Every API licensed oil will protect stock engines under normal street driving cycles.
MiradaCMX80
Well-Known Member
I won't disagree with this, but since off the shelf oil formulas change frequently, I no longer trust them. Even Brad Penn changed...for the worse.
LSM360
Well-Known Member
I have had enough true expert engine builders recommend zinc in the non roller setups, and have seen some wiped cams to go with a high zinc oil. Look at it as very low cost insurance. Oils have most definitely changed!!!!
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
If you spend some time on speed talk with the guys with many many years of engineering behind them and then if you look at what it takes pressure/friction wise to get zinc to actually come into play as zinc only becomes active after a certain amount of friction is created and with stock parts you dont get to that point if things are working properly
Some say zinc, some say material, I use only old stuff from the 80-s even have my cams reground on old 80-s core with new profiles and use a very minimal amount zinc additive. Along with other factors that wipe cams I guess im the only guy I know whos never lost a cam.
I run off the shelf rotella and 2 oz of comp zinc additive on our bracket car modern coated bearings. I think there is more hype and disinformation, selling $12 a quart oil, and people fucking up there installs and break ins and alot of bad cam deals get the "Lack of zinc" excuse. But install errors was still present in the 70s, but more just admitted they messed up. They only cams I ever wiped were factory ones in the 70s with good off the shelf oil because of poor maintenance and over 50 k miles.
Remember when our old cars were new, they were eating t chains at 40k miles, cam and lifters at 60k (they had plenty of zinc then) and really think back to the 70-s if a car had over 65k miles, we looked else wear because it was on the downhill slide. Remember spark plugs every 30k miles, trans services, rad flushes.... ball joints every few years, none of that applies or is even on the same level today.
But we all do what we do, I dont care if people spend 100 on an oil change, help the pope, or even if they traffic new born children, we all do what works for us.
Some say zinc, some say material, I use only old stuff from the 80-s even have my cams reground on old 80-s core with new profiles and use a very minimal amount zinc additive. Along with other factors that wipe cams I guess im the only guy I know whos never lost a cam.
I run off the shelf rotella and 2 oz of comp zinc additive on our bracket car modern coated bearings. I think there is more hype and disinformation, selling $12 a quart oil, and people fucking up there installs and break ins and alot of bad cam deals get the "Lack of zinc" excuse. But install errors was still present in the 70s, but more just admitted they messed up. They only cams I ever wiped were factory ones in the 70s with good off the shelf oil because of poor maintenance and over 50 k miles.
Remember when our old cars were new, they were eating t chains at 40k miles, cam and lifters at 60k (they had plenty of zinc then) and really think back to the 70-s if a car had over 65k miles, we looked else wear because it was on the downhill slide. Remember spark plugs every 30k miles, trans services, rad flushes.... ball joints every few years, none of that applies or is even on the same level today.
But we all do what we do, I dont care if people spend 100 on an oil change, help the pope, or even if they traffic new born children, we all do what works for us.
Dylan Bobek
Active Member
If it makes a difference I have a mild racing cam. I also have a lot of this truck oil don’t know if that would be good with it
LSM360
Well-Known Member
When asking this question you will never get a consensus. The Factory Service Manual most likely recommends 10W-30. I don't have one for any years Cordobas were built. Doesn't sound like your engine has been heavily altered, so that's MY opinion. You are in New Jersey so you do get some cold Winters so I wouldn't go heavier. I'd go with 10W-30 and a zinc additive or high zinc oil for insurance. I wouldn't overthink it anymore than that.
Last edited:
