AJ/FormS
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2016
- Messages
- 1,292
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- 306
That lean burn has exactly one job; To alter the base timing according to load and engine temperature. They should never have given it that moniker ELB; cuz it has no effect on the carb whatsoever.
The carbs were leaned out a bit,sure, but nothing you couldn't change in the field.
If you have made up your mind to ditch it, and have already ordered the parts, then I guess there is no point in talking about it.
So let's get to the heart of your problem.
Since you have tuned it up,let's assume the electrical is ok. That leaves just the fuel system and mechanical.
In post#1,,"So my 5th runs fine, starts on a dime, idles great, and has decent pick-up for still being an ELB 318. But I'm having an issue with the engine "pinging" at partial throttle. If I go over half throttle it stops pinging, and it idles smooth as glass. I'm running ethanol-free, so fuel quality is not an issue, but I am just not sure whether it's timing or fuel-delivery related. It also stumbles occasionally when it's still cold, but once it warms up, it runs fine besides the pinging. I won't be able to work on it for at least 2 months, because I just came back to school for the last chunk of the spring semester. So there's no rush, I just want to know what to look for. Thanks for the input."
-So the underlined items tell us that; A) the compression must be pretty good, and B) the choke must be at least engaging, and C) the low-speed circuit must be pretty close, and D)the timing must be working at least to some degree.
-The red stuff tells us the timing is definitely working, and that there is a compression issue.
-The blue, says that maybe the choke is coming off a bit early, or the low-speed circuit is a tad lean, or the accelerator pump is not quite working right, or the fuel level in the bowl is a tad low, or perhaps the computer has pulled the timing out a tad too much,or just maybe you have a valve-spring issue, or the ignition coil is tired,or dirty, or carbon in the chamber is igniting the mixture at the wrong time.
-Because it is an occasional problem, I'd go with choke,pump, or carbon.
-So now we three strikes indicating compression and or carbon.
Last;let's talk about your new EGR valve, and the new rough running. We are going to try and figure out if the new rough running is due to that valve, the signal to it, or just a coincidence and that you have a new different issue
So the next time it is idling rough, pull the hose off the EGR valve and check it for vacuum.At idle there should never be a signal there.There should also never be a signal there with a cold engine, no matter what the throttle position.So then, did the idle improve with the hose removed and thumbed? If yes, then the vacuum circuit is bad. If no then you will have to prove the valve is actually physically closed. It is possible for a piece of carbon to get wedged between the pintle and the orifice which would allow full-time EGR;and that would be bad,causing idle and possibly low-speed running issues and for sure a warm-up issue. So if the valve is physically closed, then you have a new issue.
Going back to the vacuum circuit; different years have different routings, and I don't know them all, so you will have to research it or perhaps your routing sticker is still affixed to the underside of the hood.
Usually the vacuum is routed through a thermoswitch in the top of the rad. If it has gone bad in the open position;routing vacuum through itself with cold coolant, then it will need to be replaced.The hose is often routed to receive venturi vacuum. This means the EGR has a variable vacuum signal, starting low with a bit of throttle and increasing to maximum flow at some higher throttle position and then falling to zero at higher throttle settings to WOT. Sometimes the hose is routed thru an electrical solenoid and that would then be computer controlled to prevent EGR in certain situations.Sometimes vacuum is routed through a vacuum amplifier.So good hunting if your signal is bad.
The carbs were leaned out a bit,sure, but nothing you couldn't change in the field.
If you have made up your mind to ditch it, and have already ordered the parts, then I guess there is no point in talking about it.
So let's get to the heart of your problem.
Since you have tuned it up,let's assume the electrical is ok. That leaves just the fuel system and mechanical.
In post#1,,"So my 5th runs fine, starts on a dime, idles great, and has decent pick-up for still being an ELB 318. But I'm having an issue with the engine "pinging" at partial throttle. If I go over half throttle it stops pinging, and it idles smooth as glass. I'm running ethanol-free, so fuel quality is not an issue, but I am just not sure whether it's timing or fuel-delivery related. It also stumbles occasionally when it's still cold, but once it warms up, it runs fine besides the pinging. I won't be able to work on it for at least 2 months, because I just came back to school for the last chunk of the spring semester. So there's no rush, I just want to know what to look for. Thanks for the input."
-So the underlined items tell us that; A) the compression must be pretty good, and B) the choke must be at least engaging, and C) the low-speed circuit must be pretty close, and D)the timing must be working at least to some degree.
-The red stuff tells us the timing is definitely working, and that there is a compression issue.
-The blue, says that maybe the choke is coming off a bit early, or the low-speed circuit is a tad lean, or the accelerator pump is not quite working right, or the fuel level in the bowl is a tad low, or perhaps the computer has pulled the timing out a tad too much,or just maybe you have a valve-spring issue, or the ignition coil is tired,or dirty, or carbon in the chamber is igniting the mixture at the wrong time.
-Because it is an occasional problem, I'd go with choke,pump, or carbon.
-So now we three strikes indicating compression and or carbon.
Last;let's talk about your new EGR valve, and the new rough running. We are going to try and figure out if the new rough running is due to that valve, the signal to it, or just a coincidence and that you have a new different issue
So the next time it is idling rough, pull the hose off the EGR valve and check it for vacuum.At idle there should never be a signal there.There should also never be a signal there with a cold engine, no matter what the throttle position.So then, did the idle improve with the hose removed and thumbed? If yes, then the vacuum circuit is bad. If no then you will have to prove the valve is actually physically closed. It is possible for a piece of carbon to get wedged between the pintle and the orifice which would allow full-time EGR;and that would be bad,causing idle and possibly low-speed running issues and for sure a warm-up issue. So if the valve is physically closed, then you have a new issue.
Going back to the vacuum circuit; different years have different routings, and I don't know them all, so you will have to research it or perhaps your routing sticker is still affixed to the underside of the hood.
Usually the vacuum is routed through a thermoswitch in the top of the rad. If it has gone bad in the open position;routing vacuum through itself with cold coolant, then it will need to be replaced.The hose is often routed to receive venturi vacuum. This means the EGR has a variable vacuum signal, starting low with a bit of throttle and increasing to maximum flow at some higher throttle position and then falling to zero at higher throttle settings to WOT. Sometimes the hose is routed thru an electrical solenoid and that would then be computer controlled to prevent EGR in certain situations.Sometimes vacuum is routed through a vacuum amplifier.So good hunting if your signal is bad.
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