Pinion angle?

Badasspen

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Evidently I never updated this. I ended up swapping the 6° out with a 4° shim one day in 2021 after Dad said the problem was still there, if not worse.

He said the 4° helped it a ton, but it still wasn't 100%. I got to thinking though, and I'm not sure the trans mount has ever been replaced. That may be the source of the shake.. but we'll see. The car is going in for trans work and Pops is going to ask the guy to verify all of that.
Informative thread thanks, you mentioned knocking the caps off the u joint when working on the differential. It's been my experience that 1 or more of the needle bearings will often lay flat inside the cap if the u joint has more than a couple years of wear especially if it's a warm day causing a vibration whenever under load.
Good luck!
 

brotherGood

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Informative thread thanks, you mentioned knocking the caps off the u joint when working on the differential. It's been my experience that 1 or more of the needle bearings will often lay flat inside the cap if the u joint has more than a couple years of wear especially if it's a warm day causing a vibration whenever under load.
Good luck!
From the sounds of it after it came back from the trans shop..the ujoint caps were the cause all along. Didn't get around to updating this as it was probably back for two weeks then was sold..but to make a long story short, when we grabbed a new Ujoint to replace the caps that fell out, the parts store gave us a mislabeled Ujoint. So while the box was correct, what ended up happening was the actual part was wrong. In turn, not only were we chasing a shake that was caused by that, but it also cooked the transmission mount.

I drove the car for about 200 yards after it got back, and it was everything I'd worked the prior 8 years to build-finally. The shake was gone, the sound was amazing, it pulled unbelievably hard, etc..
 

Sub03

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Sorry I fell off the wagon on this one, OK, here is what I actually tracked down for you:

DRIVELINE ANGLE --- MANUAL --- TREMEC APP
TRANSMISSION TAILSHAFT --- 2.5 down --- A1 = 2.5+
DRIVESHAFT --- 5 down ---A2 = 5.4-
PINION YOKE --- 0.00
OVERALL ANGLE --- 2.50 ---OA = 2.9-

I previously had a 4 deg +ve pinion yoke angle, which means that my pinion was already pointing UP at rest. I installed 4 deg. down shims (having spent time time actually massaging these to fit my factory ISO setups - but hey, what's a little elbow grease eh?).

Anyways, what I have now is extremely solid!

EDIT: Yikes, that formatting did NOT work at all...LOL, I prefixed with '---' to ease the separation between the columns.

Picking up this ol thread because after rebuilding my rear end with new leafs, I got a rumble/vibration I believe is caused by wrong pinion angle. My trans tail is 3 degrees down and my diff is now 4 degrees nose down.
I was thinking to raise the diff nose a little to get it close to 0 deg, so I ordered these 4 deg pinion shims from summit:

Calvert Racing 4-D Calvert Racing Pinion Shims | Summit Racing

I still have the ISO setup with poly pads.
So M_Body_Coupe, when you said massaging your shims, you opened up the slot to make them fit around the round part of the insulator?
I mean the part of the ISO pad that goes into the axle perch?

I did not think of that when I ordered the shims...:rolleyes:
 

M_Body_Coupe

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Picking up this ol thread because after rebuilding my rear end with new leafs, I got a rumble/vibration I believe is caused by wrong pinion angle. My trans tail is 3 degrees down and my diff is now 4 degrees nose down.
I was thinking to raise the diff nose a little to get it close to 0 deg, so I ordered these 4 deg pinion shims from summit:

Calvert Racing 4-D Calvert Racing Pinion Shims | Summit Racing

I still have the ISO setup with poly pads.
So M_Body_Coupe, when you said massaging your shims, you opened up the slot to make them fit around the round part of the insulator?
I mean the part of the ISO pad that goes into the axle perch?

I did not think of that when I ordered the shims...:rolleyes:

Hmm, I'm sure these will do, although that's not what I ended up working with.

I picked up the WFO 6.0 deg shim (just search for 'wfo 6.0' and you'll get plenty of hits). These are just straight rectangular metal pieces, with a 6 deg slop from one end to the next.

Now the reason why I picked these up was so that I could shape them to fit the ISO bracket setup. Took a little elbow grease but I simply manually shaved a little metal off the sides until I had a fit between the shim and the top ISO plate, sort of a "fit" if you will.

Once that was done it was just a matter of tossing them in and re-bolting everything together.

One point to note: if you have the large spring/ISO pad locating ridge, clearance the shims for that first before you start shaving off the sides, you need an anchor and that's the perfect spot.

I've attached a few pics that show the install. When I did these I had some detailed photos, but I think I lost these when my garage phone took a little "off time" (LOL, but grrhhh).

In these pics, the shim is actually that metal piece sandwiched between the axle perch and the ISO top plate.

mopar_shim1.jpg


mopar_shim2.jpg


mopar_shim3.jpg
 

Sub03

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I ordered the shims the same with as the leafs (2.5").
Did not think of the space in the top ISO plate being narrower than the leafs. Live and learn...

I guess some shaving and grinding is coming up, after making the shim center hole bigger. IIRC the perch hole is about 1 9/16"

Thank you for taking the time to answer, most appreciated.
 
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