Radiator Rotted - Replacements for Mirada

[moreada]

Going over my Mirada and the lower bit of the radiator is gone... so it looks like a new ones in order. What options do I have? Is it worth buying a new one that is aftermarket? I assume its wise to run new lines too? What are my economy and lower mid options? Stock or better is desired but i just run a stock 318. May add a few odds n ends like headers etc but don't forseeneeding a performance unit. Any tips would be appreciated.

I am a bit new and learning as I got but thus far haven't run into many challenges I couldn't overcome. This will have to be another. Thanks.

 

[Cordoba1]

Check out RockAuto.Com for parts. They have direct-fit replacement parts at pretty decent prices. I've had great luck with them for basic, non-high-performance parts. And yes --- go ahead and replace all the water hoses. Since you'll be pulling a lot of the cooling system apart, it makes sense to do it now. Based on your descriptions of the car, I'm sure they're ready to be replaced.

 

[moreada]

Thanks I will look into it. I have a friend who may be able to help me out getting one. Having sat in a storage shed for six years, the brunt of the headaches come from the mice nesting inside. No wiring compromised, do I am quite relieved.

Is the corrosion of the actual rad from having had old radiator fluid sitting in there so long? I just feel like if I can replace $50 in hoses and not have to worry its likely worth it. Im gonna redo all the fluid anyways.

Other than nesting bits they didn't touch anything. One other obvious thing is getting rid of that ribbed air hose my grandpa duct taped in 1995 and replace it with new or better.

 

[Jack Meoff]

The last thing you need is your rad taking a piss on you one day.
Which it'll do at some point if the bottom is going.

Not sure where you are in Canada but i picked up a direct fit replacement from a shop around me for my Fifth. Think it was around $260. Copper and brass. Not plastic and aluminum like the cheap garbage ones. Bolted right in just like the old one. And yes I'd definitely do all the hoses.
Cheap enough at say Napa and good insurance.
Changing hoses at the side of the road does put a damper on that nice Sunday drive.

I'd do the belts too just for shits and giggles if they're old.

 

[moreada]

I am a few hours north of you, used to live in Toronto. I may have to make a trip down that way and will pick up some parts, maybe some tires. I wish I still lived down there, as it would be cool to meet for a coffee or something.

The radiator you got sounds very nice and quality. Not cheap but sounds like it is made to last. I will ask my friend if he can get a copper and brass one. What do you reckon that all those hoses will cost to replace? Or did you just mean the rad hoses? My concern is should I spend a lot on hoses and something else happens to hinder progress I am stuck with money spent - Would replacing the major ones be okay until I know the motor will turn over? I don't see why it wouldn't, but I want to be on the safe side. I figure if all the other hoses look somewhat good it would be worth a try... but unsure. Once it starts, I will go out and grab replacement hoses for the other systems.

 

[Jack Meoff]

I can't remember exactly what I paid for the hoses but it wasn't crazy. I think the upper, lower and transfer hose all in was say maybe $50? The heater core hose is sold by the foot.

The ones on there and the rad will probably be fine just for testing to see if she runs okay. But if it does run fine, if it were me I'd replace the rad, hoses and thermostat before I did any real driving. I got my rad from a place called Toronto Radiator.

 

[moreada]

If the radiator has fins missing, is it possible it will still suffice for testing? I assumed it would be shot.

 

[Jack Meoff]

As long as it's not leaking I don't see why it wouldn't be okay just to test it. I just wouldn't do any real driving with it like that.

 

[compubert]

Amazon.com is where I got my Radiator. Not the cheapest one they had but in the middle pricewise. Plastic and alumium was the only stock option for the car I got it for but it was a decent one... 1/2 of what locals and Autozone/Discountautoparts wanted..

 

[moreada]

RockAuto.com has some great prices. Would love to find a comparable place on this side of the border. Worst case is I go to Buffalo to beat the shipping, but that's another type of hassle. The prices they have are quite good compared to others I've seen. Has anyone in Canada ever used them?

 

[kkritsilas]

I have bought a number of things from Rock Auto. Their shipping rates are actually fairly reasonable, and even with exchange and shipping, in my case the Rock Auto parts were still cheaper than the local Auto Value/Napa/Canadian tire, and were of higher quality (Timken brand Hub assemblies for a 2006 Monte Carlo SS vs. some unknown brand Chinese parts). Rock Auto is good about getting stuff sent out quickly, and it arrives pretty much when they said it will.

Try to get all parts from the same warehouse; it does help keep the shipping costs down.

 

[moreada]

Thanks.

I know i need a full brake rebuild and likely rad, hoses and belts. Not sure what else yet... but they look like the best prices. Just need to figure out all the parts and the correct ones to order haha.

 

[kkritsilas]

Do NOT make the assumption that Rock Auto is always cheapest; it is worth the time an effort to compare local vs. Rock Auto + shipping +exchange. In most cases, it will be close, but the Rock Auto stuff can be higher quality/better brands, in others, Rock Auto will be cheaper. In a few cases, the parts may not be available locally. The last one is from my most recent Rock Auto purchase; a pair of composite headlight lenses for a friend's 1998 GMC 1500 pickup. The local pick and pull had them for $50/ea.; the local parts places couldn't get them (or couldn't be bothered to get them), and Rock Auto's landed price at my doorstep was $88 for the pair. Didn't take me long to figure out which way to go.

 

[dodger roger]

on the cordoba i just bought 92,340 original km last she was on the road was 06 i replaced upper and lower rad hoses by pass hose 10 feet heater hose all new clamps new thermostat w/gasket 4 frost plugs 5 quarts chevron 10 /40 wix oil /fuel /air filters 2 gallons anti freeze cost $188 an afternoon to change (enjoyable) to hear her purr priceless

 

[moreada]

My rad is full of fluid and only a few fins are damaged. Will take a photo later today and post it to show you what I mean.

Edit : here it is... crazy. Probably shot and not worth using even to test eh?

 

[compubert]

My rad is full of fluid and only a few fins are damaged. Will take a photo later today and post it to show you what I mean.

Edit : here it is... crazy. Probably shot and not worth using even to test eh?

Here in Fl, lots of those on the road still.... lots..

 

[Jack Meoff]

My rad is full of fluid and only a few fins are damaged. Will take a photo later today and post it to show you what I mean.

Edit : here it is... crazy. Probably shot and not worth using even to test eh?

That's what mine looked like before I swapped it.
Like I said before if it's not pissing coolant it should be fine for a test.

 

[moreada]

Flush the rad fluid first tho I take it? Will my gas tank and lines be ok too?

 

[Jack Meoff]

If you're talking about just seeing if she'll fire up here's what I would do. I don't have the place or facilities to drop a gas tank. Unless I'm convinced this thing is full of crap I'd go to crappy tire out Napa and but three fuel filters. One regular Mopar style and two of the see thru plastic ones. Change the real one and take some rubber fuel line and add a chain of the two plastic ones. If any crap is coming out your going to see it and you've got three filters before it hits the carb. When you have power turn the keyto on (not start) and see what your gas gauge reads. If it's lots of gas I'd be doing some siphoning to get the old varnish gas out of there. If it's say an eighthto maybe a quarter I'd add a jug of premium and see how it goes. The carb might need some carb cleaner. It'll be an ongoing process till she's rocking. The rad as far as I'm concerned is more than fine for a test. The worst that'll happen is it'll spring a leak. Yes. ...I'd change the coolant.

 

[dodger roger]

also remove the gas cap try smelling by the filler neck if it smells really bad the fuel in the tank has gone really bad the cordoba i just stripped had gross gas in it what i did with the cordoba i just bought i disconnected the fuel line from tank at the fuel pump connected a 5 ft fuel line to the fuel pump and put the other end into a 5 gallon gas can filled with 94 octane from chevron if you are lucky as i was and she starts that funky third nipple on the fuel filter goes back to the fuel tank so the car hopefully runs well with the new gas and blending it with the older fuel in the tank