I'm still learning my stuff. This most recent time made me late for work. I first start fine no problems drive 30 mins. Get gas. Try to leave the pump. Turning the key only stops the radio and the fan. Last time this happened I wiggled a wire on the firewall and that's what I thought I did to make it work. I tried wiggling that same wire and still nothing. I started looking up how to start it without the ignition then I randomly tried it and started no problem. Any idea what part I need to replace? Thanks in advance
Random non start condition. 86 dippy
- Thread starter bbdadude
- Start date
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Does it crank or not? What wire? Stops the fan... the blower motor? There's something missing here that doesn't make sense.
If you want to throw a parts cannon at it you can try this
But there's more going on here I suspect. Mouse chew any wires?
If you want to throw a parts cannon at it you can try this
But there's more going on here I suspect. Mouse chew any wires?
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Can you hear a click when you turn the key from under the hood? If so the starter relay is probably OK. Do you hear any noise from the starter? It could be going bad. If the lights dim when you try to start it chances are good it's the starter.
But also check all the connections at the battery and the starter in case something is loose or corroded.
If it cranks but doesn't start there's something else going on either ignition or fuel related.
But also check all the connections at the battery and the starter in case something is loose or corroded.
If it cranks but doesn't start there's something else going on either ignition or fuel related.
78VOLAREWAG
Well-Known Member
Battery might have croaked
It cranks when it wants to. But usually no problems till you try to start it after I turn it off. One of the wires on the part AMC diplomat mentioned. Starting to think it wants to "cool off" before it starts again. When it acts up I don't hear the starter trying to start
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Next time if you can turn the wheel to the right and get under the driver side try hitting the starter with something.
GregG48213
Well-Known Member
I had the same random issue on my 1988 Diplomat. I could usually cure it by disconnecting/reconnecting the terminal at the starter relay. You may need to clean the terminals at the block. Also check the wires at the starter. The critters chewed the insulation off the starter wiring.
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
If it's the starter, go ahead and get a mini starter. You won't regret it.
Justwondering
Well-Known Member
Mini-started fixed my issues years ago and the car was nearly 600 pounds lighter (well, I might be exaggerating) cause the old starter (original) was way heavier.
JW
JW
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Kinda hard to have a hard start when a mini starter is spinning the dang thing so freaking fast. Night and day difference
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Next time it acts up, try starting in neutral and/or wiggle the shifter. Could be the park/neutral switch. With the key in crank, and the radio and fan go off, but no click from the starter relay on the firewall, it's a good indication of a failing neutral switch in the trans (or poor connections).
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
If it is the neutral safety, the modern mopar part number is 3747361. The prices on the genuine mopar ones have gone through the roof in the last year.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
No kidding its gone thru the roof. $100+ is a rip off.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Problem is, the aftermarket switches are very poor quality. Either they're bad out of the box, or only work a few months. Best bet is a new OEM or a known good used original.
IF that's what's actually causing the random no crank that is.
On my Aspen I had an aftermarket switch which worked for exactly one season. Put another in, no back up lights. Exchanged it and all good,,,,,,,for about 2 months. One night my late dad and I were talking cars as usual, and I mentioned it to him. He told me in a jar in the basement there were 3 or 4 used ones from the 1960's and to grab one, or all. That was about 6 or 7 years ago and it still works perfectly.
IF that's what's actually causing the random no crank that is.
On my Aspen I had an aftermarket switch which worked for exactly one season. Put another in, no back up lights. Exchanged it and all good,,,,,,,for about 2 months. One night my late dad and I were talking cars as usual, and I mentioned it to him. He told me in a jar in the basement there were 3 or 4 used ones from the 1960's and to grab one, or all. That was about 6 or 7 years ago and it still works perfectly.
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80mirada
Well-Known Member
I bought an American made after market one, but I don't know what brand it was. It could have been old stock to be honest
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Except that the new oem ones are no better they're made by one of the same manufacturers as the aftermarket ones.
There's no way to justify that price for one.
I've never had a problem with parts store ones but if I did I'd grab a used one from somewhere.
If they have starting problems because of the switch usually the backup lights also do strange things.
There's no way to justify that price for one.
I've never had a problem with parts store ones but if I did I'd grab a used one from somewhere.
If they have starting problems because of the switch usually the backup lights also do strange things.
7T8 Custom
Well-Known Member
Dealer pricing is out to lunch. Wanted to get a spare set of rims for my Charger to mount the winter tires on so I don`t have to keep paying to change them over twice a year and found out they want $2870.00 each for replacement rims to match what is already on the car. The cheapest thing they show that fit the winter tires is $842.00 each. While the is in Canadian dollars it is still a lot considering I would still need to buy a set of TPM sensors and get the tires I already have mounted and balanced. I ended up ordering a set of Wheels from OE Wheels the same as what came on the car in satin black for $924.00 for the set of 4.
Justwondering
Well-Known Member
My suburban died and I'm gifting the tires to my nephew for use on his Tahoe.
Tahoe has sensors for the 'low tire' pressure warning.
So in order to get things migrated, he has to have each of the wheels/tires off the surburban.
Tires off the wheels.
Then wheels off the Tahoe.
Then tires off the wheels.
Then suburban tires on the tahoe wheels.
Finally remount the tahoe wheels.
For those of you counting, that's 8 tires unmounted and 4 tires mounted. Total of 12.
Don't even ask me how much the local tire place wants for that..... $20 bucks a tire, thats $240 just for migrating tires. Doesn't include removing them from the vehicle or putting them back on the vehicle.
lol...
Nephew is going to spend some quality time with my set of tractor tire iron spoons.
JW
Tahoe has sensors for the 'low tire' pressure warning.
So in order to get things migrated, he has to have each of the wheels/tires off the surburban.
Tires off the wheels.
Then wheels off the Tahoe.
Then tires off the wheels.
Then suburban tires on the tahoe wheels.
Finally remount the tahoe wheels.
For those of you counting, that's 8 tires unmounted and 4 tires mounted. Total of 12.
Don't even ask me how much the local tire place wants for that..... $20 bucks a tire, thats $240 just for migrating tires. Doesn't include removing them from the vehicle or putting them back on the vehicle.
lol...
Nephew is going to spend some quality time with my set of tractor tire iron spoons.
JW
AMC Diplomat
Well-Known Member
Cheaper to just throw the wheels on his Tahoe, open the lens on the dash, slap electric tape on the tire light, and put the lens back on. Sure, it'll say low tire at start up, but then it goes away. Problem solved.
