1. Kramer79

    Kramer79 Well-Known Member

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    As I await bearings and calipers in the mail I decided to tackle the rear bumper removal. I got one that a guy had rechromed years ago but never got it mounted. I painted the inside as it had a good deal of surface rust and waxed the chrome up. Not perfect- but still will outclass the car! Anyone know how to remove the rubber trim clips form inside the bumper? Not a big deal but just in case I thought I would ask! 007FA47A-529A-4648-8F93-24EC9BB21E78.jpeg 61119426-8F5B-4917-B855-6AC85FE6B786.jpeg 3D83B55F-90AD-4E6F-BB46-037461356539.jpeg
     
  2. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    Gently squeeze the little tabs while simultaneously pushing them out of the bumper. You may be able to get them by hand but, a pair of pliers and a gentle touch will help...just don’t squeeze so hard you accidentally mangle the tabs.
    I have a extra nerf strip for the rear bumper in my garage, you’re welcome to it if things take a turn for the worse.
     
  3. Kramer79

    Kramer79 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks!
     
  4. DCAspen

    DCAspen Well-Known Member

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    Put a little grease for lubrication to pop those out.New bumper looks a lot nicer than the original.
     
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  5. DCAspen

    DCAspen Well-Known Member

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    Is that your Hot Pink Land Rover?
     
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  6. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Also, either get new bumper bolts OR use lots of penetrating oil before attempting to remove your old bumper bolts.
     
  7. Mikes5thAve

    Mikes5thAve Well-Known Member

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    Put lots of penetrating oil on the nuts that hold the bumperettes on either side of the license plate on. They like to rust and tear out of the rubber part. The black strip is easy to get off once you figure it out.
     
  8. Kramer79

    Kramer79 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks - yes my little one’s ride haha the only car that runs in the garage... I got the pieces off, only one plastic peg snapped... bumperette nuts solid piles of rust... may have to use grinding wheel in the drill or something... then screw them in from behind or something...
     
  9. DCAspen

    DCAspen Well-Known Member

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    I think the later [84-up] plastic bumper guards bolt into the guard,not sure but I have a set somewhere,I'll have to look unless someone else knows for sure.
     
  10. Mikes5thAve

    Mikes5thAve Well-Known Member

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    The bumper guards are pretty much the same from 82 to 89 with the same mounting.
     
  11. DCAspen

    DCAspen Well-Known Member

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    Mike any idea when the plastic guard was used? 80-89 should give him the correct parts.The plastic one i have came off an 88
     
  12. Mikes5thAve

    Mikes5thAve Well-Known Member

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    I thought they were all the plastic kind. I know my 84 and 88 are. I have access to an 82, ill check it next time I have the chance. I know it looks the same any way.
     
  13. DCAspen

    DCAspen Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Mike,Let me know what you find out.
     
  14. M_Body_Coupe

    M_Body_Coupe Well-Known Member

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    Do you have a heat-gun handy?

    If yes, play with the heat setting a little bit, but that should make the plastic a bit more flexible...heck, do not melt the darn thing, just make it more pliable.
     
  15. Kramer79

    Kramer79 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks I did use a lighter on a few of them! Not as good as a heat gun but it worked ... back to brake work then hopefully I’ll finish the bumper up... anyone know if bench bleeding needed on new master if I will be replacing calipers and wheel cylinders anyway? I think I will do it - can’t hurt...
     
  16. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Always bench bleed a new (or used) brake master cylinder (any car type). It is not too hard to do.
    If not, you might end up with an air pocket that might not ever get out of the system. Air in any brake system WILL cause a spongy petal and accelerates rust/corrosion.

    BudW
     
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