WANTED Rear leaf spring and shock mounts needed

[valiantwagonguy]

I have a 76 Aspen with a 7/14 rear and the plates that hold the rear to the leaf springs and shock is falling apart on both sides.Does anyone have a set to sell or know if I can adapt ones from a 65 A body to it.I have both 71/4 and 8 3/4 plates for early A bodies but would rather get the right stuff if I can.I need this car for work so i need to act on this quickly.Thanks ,valiantwagon guy (Ed)

 

[volare 1977]

I have some used U brackets that go around the spring for a 4 leaf springs. I believe they were off a 8 1/4.

 

[valiantwagonguy]

I have some used U brackets that go around the spring for a 4 leaf springs. I believe they were off a 8 1/4.

I'd be interested in them.How much do you want?

 

[volare 1977]

message sent

 

[XfbodyX]

I have a exe pair of upper shock plates took off maybe 30 years ago. I dont have the lowers I used to toss them not knowing they would be sought after later.

So if you can us the top plate the shock mounts to I have a nice pair I will snap a few pics.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Those 7 1/4 were different diameter tube then 80s stuff and 8 1/4. That might make a difference finding parts.

 

[XfbodyX]

Hmmm if I need to measure something I can.

 

[BudW]

The '76 to '81 FMJ 7-1/4" differentials have 2-1/2" axle tubes, which means the U-bolts (Chrysler calls 'em "clips") as well as upper and lower ISO clamps are different (bolt holes are narrower than 8-1/4" (all) or 7-1/4" ('82-89) that has the 3" axle tubes).

The above mentioned upper ISO clamps look in great shape - but "I suspect" you might be needing the lower clamps.

In my opinion - I would highly recommend upgrading to an A-body (or the few B or E-bodies) that have the 7-1/4" differential and get rid of the ISO clamp system. The vehicle will ride better and the older shock plates are made of thicker steel. I do see the older 7-1/4" shock plates on sale from time to time.
MOPAR 7.25, 7 1/4 - SHOCK PLATES OEM CUDA, DART, DUSTER, 225 /6, 318 | eBay and https://www.ebay.com/itm/254971922664?hash=item3b5d82c8e8:g:LZcAAOSw-IRftxSP is a couple of examples.

To use the older shock plates, you will also need to change the rear shock absorbers to any '66 to '79 A or B-body shock and will need new U-bolts (possibly). Most likely, it is time for new rear shocks, to begin with. Your old U-bolts might work, but to be honest, I wouldn't reuse a 40 year old U-bolt. You might have to cut 'em off to begin with.
BudW

 

[valiantwagonguy]

The '76 to '81 FMJ 7-1/4" differentials have 2-1/2" axle tubes, which means the U-bolts (Chrysler calls 'em "clips") as well as upper and lower ISO clamps are different (bolt holes are narrower than 8-1/4" (all) or 7-1/4" ('82-89) that has the 3" axle tubes).

The above mentioned upper ISO clamps look in great shape - but "I suspect" you might be needing the lower clamps.

In my opinion - I would highly recommend upgrading to an A-body (or the few B or E-bodies) that have the 7-1/4" differential and get rid of the ISO clamp system. The vehicle will ride better and the older shock plates are made of thicker steel. I do see the older 7-1/4" shock plates on sale from time to time.
MOPAR 7.25, 7 1/4 - SHOCK PLATES OEM CUDA, DART, DUSTER, 225 /6, 318 | eBay and https://www.ebay.com/itm/254971922664?hash=item3b5d82c8e8:g:LZcAAOSw-IRftxSP is a couple of examples.

To use the older shock plates, you will also need to change the rear shock absorbers to any '66 to '79 A or B-body shock and will need new U-bolts (possibly). Most likely, it is time for new rear shocks, to begin with. Your old U-bolts might work, but to be honest, I wouldn't reuse a 40 year old U-bolt. You might have to cut 'em off to begin with.
BudW

I did end up using A body stuff I had .After some thought and searching in my garage I came up with what I needed.I cut the old crap off and am now in the process of putting it all back together. With any luck it will be back in service tonight if the rain lets up.I'm working outside so rain is an issue.Thanks for your input , it all helps . Ed

 

[DCAspen]

1980 was the 1st year for the 3" axle tube on the 7 1/4 rear end

 

[valiantwagonguy]

Thanks for all the help with this problem .What I ended up doing is using mid 60's 8 3/4 botom plates and u bolts.I made 8 1/4 in shims to take up the distance between the bolts and the axle housing to keep it tight. After tightening the bolts down those shims were tight in place and I put a small weld on each one to the pad on the rear to make sure they stay put.I used shocke from an old 66 valiant I had parted out and used a big flat washer to take up that step in the bottom locating bolt to the plate. The only parts I bought were the two washers at a cost of around 5 dollars and it's back in service and working as it should.Here are some photos of what I had,what I now have , and what came out

 

[BudW]

Great job. I hadn't thought about using the bigger (non-7-1/4") plates, but what you did will (did) work.

The only other suggestion I have would have been to clean up, then paint, the replacement shock plates before install. That way rust would have been a non-issue for decades to come.

I am courious as to why you left a rubber biscuit in place instead of direct metal on metal on metal (like how the '60's A's were made)?

How does the car drive and handle now compared to before the ISO clamp failure?
BudW

 

[valiantwagonguy]

The rubber was left in because there is no other way to locate the rear on the springs with that huge hole in the rear mounting plates on the axle housings so I just did this and moved forward.This is a repair on my beater not a resto .I just needed to get it back in service in a hurry so I could use it to get to work.Even with the rubber in the bottom the car handles way better.It has a more solid feel.

 

[BudW]

That makes more sense.

There are a couple of options:
I have seen a person find large used "captive-washer nuts" that will work.

I have also seen someone go to hardware store and find fender washers that will work. I was planning on using rectangle steel stock and make spacers when my time comes.

The captive-washer nuts will keep from falling out. The fender washer or using steel bar stock will need to be held in place using the leaf spring centering bolt (or they will fall out):

You will need to find a pair of clamps (C-clamps work fine, as well as most any other kind of clamps) and clamp the leafs together, before removing the centering bolt. Most centering bolts are in the same rusty condition as your old U-bolts are - but you can get new centering bolts at most part stores (or eBay, or Summit Racing, or ...). With the washer (or plate) attached to the leaf spring, getting the differential into place is easy - maybe much easier than your attempt here. I have a suspicion your rubber biscuits is going to squish out/crumble/fallout in a couple of years causing another problem (but hopefully not).
BudW

 

[MiradaMegacab]

Need Help with spring mounts