Ed Dorey
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know the easiest way to remove the quarter glass without breaking them?
removing quarter glass
- Thread starter Ed Dorey
- Start date
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
The glass takes a lot to break. About the only way is to cut the urethane from inside the car. They make tools for the purpose or you can improvise something. As long as you don't nick the edge, tempered glass won't break without really trying.
Jonnyuma
Well-Known Member
What kind of tool? I mean, is it like a garrote? Or more like blade in a handle?
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Im a bit surprised why folks are saying do it from inside the car. Here is another option.
When you remove the bracket (pic) you will see the window sits on simple locator blocks, you will also see there is no sealer on the inside or the edges.
Looking from the outside you will see how thick the sealer is.
Posted a pic of the footprint of your std 5 in 1 tool which is like a thick razor blade. You can also use the type tool that holds a single razor blade if desired.
From the outside your simply running flush with the glass like you were cleaning over spray or debris from said glass but in reality your just cutting through the sealer on a smooth glass surface and its thick enough that even with the 5 in 1 tool you simply compress the sealer.
It takes me about 5 minutes a window to go three passes around evenly and then it simply pushes out. Weather the dead of winter or heat of summer matters little because you simply separating the sealer from the glass.
Then when its out a simple go around with a one sided razor blade and its good.
I myself think for the side windows only its a far better way then the time and leverage against the glass used and needed unless you use the seal cutter day in day out.
Ive probably removed 20 sets this way and its always quick simple and break free.
Also if you live in a area where tint is allowed or? and its a super pac louver car you can use 1/4 smoked plexi glass of the tint you like if you wish.
I do on F-s that are not driven much because unless you do the tint yourself the tint guys usually destroy your lil plastic chrome inner trim and its hard to find them.
When you remove the bracket (pic) you will see the window sits on simple locator blocks, you will also see there is no sealer on the inside or the edges.
Looking from the outside you will see how thick the sealer is.
Posted a pic of the footprint of your std 5 in 1 tool which is like a thick razor blade. You can also use the type tool that holds a single razor blade if desired.
From the outside your simply running flush with the glass like you were cleaning over spray or debris from said glass but in reality your just cutting through the sealer on a smooth glass surface and its thick enough that even with the 5 in 1 tool you simply compress the sealer.
It takes me about 5 minutes a window to go three passes around evenly and then it simply pushes out. Weather the dead of winter or heat of summer matters little because you simply separating the sealer from the glass.
Then when its out a simple go around with a one sided razor blade and its good.
I myself think for the side windows only its a far better way then the time and leverage against the glass used and needed unless you use the seal cutter day in day out.
Ive probably removed 20 sets this way and its always quick simple and break free.
Also if you live in a area where tint is allowed or? and its a super pac louver car you can use 1/4 smoked plexi glass of the tint you like if you wish.
I do on F-s that are not driven much because unless you do the tint yourself the tint guys usually destroy your lil plastic chrome inner trim and its hard to find them.
Last edited:
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
I will add this as well, its much easier to install your rear window exterior bright work trim at the same time you install the windows if possible. Not after.
Much easier if you want it to look right.
Much easier if you want it to look right.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
One other "don't forget" is to use glass bonding primer (that black stuff) on the glass and pinch weld where the urethane is applied.
Also, as with the chrome molding, 1/4 window louvers need to be installed before the glass.
Also, as with the chrome molding, 1/4 window louvers need to be installed before the glass.
4speedjim
Well-Known Member
Leave it in the full sun with windows up, might soften urethane. Not sure a heat gun is appropriate around glass.
Wouldn't a glass tool work well? It has a big handle with a 90* Blade you plunge thru the urethane, Theres a cable through the big handle to another handle to pull the tool thru the urethane. One hand steadies and steers the blade while the other pulls it thru the Thane. Or is there not enough room to negotiate this tool around the interior?
Wouldn't a glass tool work well? It has a big handle with a 90* Blade you plunge thru the urethane, Theres a cable through the big handle to another handle to pull the tool thru the urethane. One hand steadies and steers the blade while the other pulls it thru the Thane. Or is there not enough room to negotiate this tool around the interior?
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Leave it in the full sun with windows up, might soften urethane. Not sure a heat gun is appropriate around glass.
Wouldn't a glass tool work well? It has a big handle with a 90* Blade you plunge thru the urethane, Theres a cable through the big handle to another handle to pull the tool thru the urethane. One hand steadies and steers the blade while the other pulls it thru the Thane. Or is there not enough room to negotiate this tool around the interior?
Yes the glass tools are nice, my main point was for the back window, imo its overkill, takes longer and is more likely to scuff or hurt an edge. I use the cable tool alot on windshields and its not hard to take a tiny chip or mar the edge even if its covered up and sealed in the end and never causes an issue. Many times id rather just replace a old windshield vs re use, most dont realize how bad a 40 year old one is till they see a new one installed.
Many different ways for the same result.
Wouldn't a glass tool work well? It has a big handle with a 90* Blade you plunge thru the urethane, Theres a cable through the big handle to another handle to pull the tool thru the urethane. One hand steadies and steers the blade while the other pulls it thru the Thane. Or is there not enough room to negotiate this tool around the interior?
Yes the glass tools are nice, my main point was for the back window, imo its overkill, takes longer and is more likely to scuff or hurt an edge. I use the cable tool alot on windshields and its not hard to take a tiny chip or mar the edge even if its covered up and sealed in the end and never causes an issue. Many times id rather just replace a old windshield vs re use, most dont realize how bad a 40 year old one is till they see a new one installed.
Many different ways for the same result.
4speedjim
Well-Known Member
Absolutely! You don't notice all the micro scuffs and chips in a tired windshield till you look through a nice fresh glass. And they seem to be brittle after 40 years. Your obviously experienced enough to know your ability and comfort level.
BTW, a slight left here. I have a few guys that roam from dealership to dealership. They touch up everything from interiors to paint chips, hail and door dings, rubber bumpers even glass chip and scratch guys. They can buff out wiper scratched, micro chipped sand blasted and stone chipped wore out glass to look like new. Chrystal clear. I'm not suggesting this is any help for your R&R project. But if the need ever arises, swing by any dealership and someone in the used car dept should be able to give you leads in your area for any of these issues. They would probably drive to your job or home if that's what you needed.
BTW, a slight left here. I have a few guys that roam from dealership to dealership. They touch up everything from interiors to paint chips, hail and door dings, rubber bumpers even glass chip and scratch guys. They can buff out wiper scratched, micro chipped sand blasted and stone chipped wore out glass to look like new. Chrystal clear. I'm not suggesting this is any help for your R&R project. But if the need ever arises, swing by any dealership and someone in the used car dept should be able to give you leads in your area for any of these issues. They would probably drive to your job or home if that's what you needed.
Ed Dorey
Well-Known Member
I've checked on new glass but have been told it's not available. Even safelite told me this. Can you tell me who has new glass?
4speedjim
Well-Known Member
Theres a sticky on this. I cant recall exactly the name but something like Pikings Pinkings glass. $270+ the ride for windshields
80mirada
Well-Known Member
Try Pilkington Classic.
You cannot beat a new windshield for visibility!
If a windshield is ever out of car (for a rust repair, total restore, etc.), always go back with new – if possible.
There is just no comparison between new vs. 40-year-old original glass.
The side glass and back glass (backlite) is a bit harder to obtain new – but also makes a difference. That said, you do spend most of your time driving looking out the windshield.
Also, for inside car shows (mostly), you can spot 40 to 50-year-old cars that have been professionally restored, just by looking at the (new) glass.
When vehicle is outside is more difficult to tell.
BudW
If a windshield is ever out of car (for a rust repair, total restore, etc.), always go back with new – if possible.
There is just no comparison between new vs. 40-year-old original glass.
The side glass and back glass (backlite) is a bit harder to obtain new – but also makes a difference. That said, you do spend most of your time driving looking out the windshield.
Also, for inside car shows (mostly), you can spot 40 to 50-year-old cars that have been professionally restored, just by looking at the (new) glass.
When vehicle is outside is more difficult to tell.
BudW
