picklesgarage
Well-Known Member
radiator came in today. one thing off the list. now to find time to install it
so pulled the trigger...
- Thread starter picklesgarage
- Start date
To help you with this endeavor, the first thing I would do is get a bucket or plastic box that can hold about three gallons and place under radiator draincock and open the drain. It will take 5-10 minutes to get most of the coolant out of the car.
This is what I use – which I can get for about a buck at the dollar store (12-quart bin).
Then I would first unbolt the fan clutch from water pump pulley – leaving the topmost screw loose but in place (so fan won’t fall off.
Unscrew the hose clamp to upper radiator hose. In most cases, a person can twist the hose and it will loosen its grip from the radiator neck. If not and if your hoses are 7-10 years old or older, it might be advisable to replace the hoses (ie: cut yours off). Once hose is removed from radiator, it will be out of the way enough for fan shroud removal.
Unbolt the fan shroud to radiator screws – which can be either four or five screws. Once screws are out, grab ahold of a fan blade and screw the last fan clutch bolt and remove fan and shroud together (Note: this takes two to sometimes three different hands to perform).
Some years FMJ’s, the coolant bottle is in the way of the radiator screws. Other years it is well out of the way. If you need to unscrew the coolant bottle, this is the time to do so.
Disconnect the coolant overflow hose to radiator neck (by radiator cap). Remove the coolant bottle and hose from vehicle. Note: this would be a good time to drain the coolant out and into your catch can for I don’t recommend mixing old coolant with new (it defeats the purpose).
Disconnect the lower radiator hose – in same fashion as upper hose.
Note: the lower hose has a spring inside of it. if you are replacing the lower hose, you will need to un-screw that spring from old hose and screw it into the new hose before hose is installed into car. That spring is to keep the lower radiator hose from collapsing sense that hose is on the suction side of the water pump.
On 76-79 cars, first find a couple of short sections of 3/8” fuel hose about 2-3” (4-7 cm) long and a couple of 3/8” bolts (any length will work). Disconnect the transmission cooler lines by using two (2) end wrenches total. If I recall correctly, the wrench sizes are 1/2” and 5/8”. You are keeping the small wrench still (or keeping it from moving) while twisting on the larger wrench - this step is VERY IMPORTANT! Damage to the transmission cooler lines WILL happen if you don’t use two wrenches (not an if, but a WILL). It is not necessary to use line wrenches for the cooler lines but if you have ‘em, use ‘em. You WILL have ATF leaking out of both ports (transmission side and line side – so have a catch can/tray close by. Take one piece of the 3/8” hose mentioned above and slip onto the line flare. This will take a bit of work, but it will happen. Then take a bolt and insert into the hose end. That will plug one cooler line. Repeat for the other side - which will stop the ATF leak. Don’t worry about what will come out of the radiator, for it will be a limited amount.
Use both end wrenches, when reattaching the cooler lines!
A line wrench (if not familiar with one)
For '80-89 cars, first find a pair of 5/16” bolts (any length will work). Disconnect the rubber hose clamps. Note: these hoses are common leak locations and I do not recommend re-using these hoses. It might be faster to just cut the hoses (mid-position or close to the radiator) for now, for there will be more room to change the hoses later. ATF will leak out of these hoses at a non-stop drip pace – so have a catch can/tray close by. This drip will not stop – so as each hose is disconnected (or cut) take a 5/16” bolt and plug the hose going to transmission (on both sides).
There are four bolts that attach the radiator to core support, two per side. Loosen the two lower bolts a couple of turns (blue circles) and leave in place.
Remove the upper bolts. Now you can pull the radiator up and out. The lower bolts are there as a guide to hold the radiator in place while trying to get bolts into the core support (a neat trick).
Once radiator is out, you most likely will need to transfer the brass transmission cooler line fittings from one radiator to the other. Sometimes these fittings come with a new radiator, sometimes not. Take your time for these fittings can be hard to find and not cheap when you can find one.
For '80-89 cars, measure both cooler line hoses and install onto the transmission cooler lines (engine side) while radiator is out of car. These are high pressure (120psi) hydraulic/transmission hose, so DO NOT use fuel hose (they can’t hold up to the pressure). Most auto part stores do carry this hose and you will need about a foot, total (police cars are a bit longer). Most hose lengths vary but is about four to five inch in length (each).
Once a new hose is on, take the 5/16” bolt and move to new hose – again to keep ATF loss to a minimum.
Insert new radiator into place.
Before tightening the four bolts, I recommend finishing with the trans cooler hoses (‘80-89 cars) first. On ’76-79 cars, you can screw the lines in place but not tighten, just yet.
Reattach parts in reverse order of removal.
I recommend for most people to place a piece of cardboard between the fan blade and radiator. The cooler lines do a great job on holding the cardboard up. I have seen several radiators damaged by the fan blade by accidents upon installation. I just don’t want you to take your new radiator to a radiator shop for a repair because of a tiny slip up (which does happen). The cardboard can be removed once the first fan screw is in place. I call this cheap insurance and something that even I still do.
After coolant been added and checked, and after engine is warm – be sure to check the transmission fluid level (in neutral after car has been shifted into both reverse and drive once).
BudW
This is what I use – which I can get for about a buck at the dollar store (12-quart bin).
Then I would first unbolt the fan clutch from water pump pulley – leaving the topmost screw loose but in place (so fan won’t fall off.
Unscrew the hose clamp to upper radiator hose. In most cases, a person can twist the hose and it will loosen its grip from the radiator neck. If not and if your hoses are 7-10 years old or older, it might be advisable to replace the hoses (ie: cut yours off). Once hose is removed from radiator, it will be out of the way enough for fan shroud removal.
Unbolt the fan shroud to radiator screws – which can be either four or five screws. Once screws are out, grab ahold of a fan blade and screw the last fan clutch bolt and remove fan and shroud together (Note: this takes two to sometimes three different hands to perform).
Some years FMJ’s, the coolant bottle is in the way of the radiator screws. Other years it is well out of the way. If you need to unscrew the coolant bottle, this is the time to do so.
Disconnect the coolant overflow hose to radiator neck (by radiator cap). Remove the coolant bottle and hose from vehicle. Note: this would be a good time to drain the coolant out and into your catch can for I don’t recommend mixing old coolant with new (it defeats the purpose).
Disconnect the lower radiator hose – in same fashion as upper hose.
Note: the lower hose has a spring inside of it. if you are replacing the lower hose, you will need to un-screw that spring from old hose and screw it into the new hose before hose is installed into car. That spring is to keep the lower radiator hose from collapsing sense that hose is on the suction side of the water pump.
On 76-79 cars, first find a couple of short sections of 3/8” fuel hose about 2-3” (4-7 cm) long and a couple of 3/8” bolts (any length will work). Disconnect the transmission cooler lines by using two (2) end wrenches total. If I recall correctly, the wrench sizes are 1/2” and 5/8”. You are keeping the small wrench still (or keeping it from moving) while twisting on the larger wrench - this step is VERY IMPORTANT! Damage to the transmission cooler lines WILL happen if you don’t use two wrenches (not an if, but a WILL). It is not necessary to use line wrenches for the cooler lines but if you have ‘em, use ‘em. You WILL have ATF leaking out of both ports (transmission side and line side – so have a catch can/tray close by. Take one piece of the 3/8” hose mentioned above and slip onto the line flare. This will take a bit of work, but it will happen. Then take a bolt and insert into the hose end. That will plug one cooler line. Repeat for the other side - which will stop the ATF leak. Don’t worry about what will come out of the radiator, for it will be a limited amount.
Use both end wrenches, when reattaching the cooler lines!
A line wrench (if not familiar with one)
For '80-89 cars, first find a pair of 5/16” bolts (any length will work). Disconnect the rubber hose clamps. Note: these hoses are common leak locations and I do not recommend re-using these hoses. It might be faster to just cut the hoses (mid-position or close to the radiator) for now, for there will be more room to change the hoses later. ATF will leak out of these hoses at a non-stop drip pace – so have a catch can/tray close by. This drip will not stop – so as each hose is disconnected (or cut) take a 5/16” bolt and plug the hose going to transmission (on both sides).
There are four bolts that attach the radiator to core support, two per side. Loosen the two lower bolts a couple of turns (blue circles) and leave in place.
Remove the upper bolts. Now you can pull the radiator up and out. The lower bolts are there as a guide to hold the radiator in place while trying to get bolts into the core support (a neat trick).
Once radiator is out, you most likely will need to transfer the brass transmission cooler line fittings from one radiator to the other. Sometimes these fittings come with a new radiator, sometimes not. Take your time for these fittings can be hard to find and not cheap when you can find one.
For '80-89 cars, measure both cooler line hoses and install onto the transmission cooler lines (engine side) while radiator is out of car. These are high pressure (120psi) hydraulic/transmission hose, so DO NOT use fuel hose (they can’t hold up to the pressure). Most auto part stores do carry this hose and you will need about a foot, total (police cars are a bit longer). Most hose lengths vary but is about four to five inch in length (each).
Once a new hose is on, take the 5/16” bolt and move to new hose – again to keep ATF loss to a minimum.
Insert new radiator into place.
Before tightening the four bolts, I recommend finishing with the trans cooler hoses (‘80-89 cars) first. On ’76-79 cars, you can screw the lines in place but not tighten, just yet.
Reattach parts in reverse order of removal.
I recommend for most people to place a piece of cardboard between the fan blade and radiator. The cooler lines do a great job on holding the cardboard up. I have seen several radiators damaged by the fan blade by accidents upon installation. I just don’t want you to take your new radiator to a radiator shop for a repair because of a tiny slip up (which does happen). The cardboard can be removed once the first fan screw is in place. I call this cheap insurance and something that even I still do.
After coolant been added and checked, and after engine is warm – be sure to check the transmission fluid level (in neutral after car has been shifted into both reverse and drive once).
BudW
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