SolidBushings.com

[bremereric]

They make like products that Firm Feel produces..I have not used them but others have...they are a cheaper alternative...

Mopar Applications

P/N: CPD001

Isolator Bushings for 73+ Bs, and ALL FJM and R bodies. These are made out of Solid 6061 Aluminum. Comes with 4 bushings, 4 heavy duty washers, 4 grade 8 bolts, and 4 lock washers. Aluminum parts are anodized black. Threadlocker is highly recommended when installing.$160 Set of Four, $15 shipping in the Continental US

P/N: CPD002

Torsion Bar Crossmember Bushings for 73+ B and R bodies. These are made out of Solid 6061 Aluminum. Comes with two upper and lower bushings, grade 8 bolts and washers. Aluminum parts are anodized black. Threadlocker highly recommended when installing.$50 Set of Two, $7 shipping in the Continental US

P/N: LBK001

Consists of the K-frame isolator bushings and Torsion Bar Crossmember Bushings. For 73+ B and R bodies. Save a couple dollars when ordering together!$195 for the set. $15 shipping in the Continental US

P/N: CPD003

Leaf Spring Pad Bushings for 73+ Bs and ALL FJM and R bodies. These put your rear end right on your leaf springs properly locating them. Made from mild steel and black oxide treated. Use these when you will be using stock style springs, stock rear end, but have completely eliminated the rear iso-clamp system. Also includes a new Grade 8 bolt & nut for your springs. You will need to provide your own U-bolts and lower (shock) plate. $25 per Pair. $5 shipping in the Continental US

P/N: CPD004

Leaf Spring Pad Bushings for 73+ Bs and ALL FJM and R bodies. These re-use your upper iso-clamp plate. Useful if you want to retain your rear sway bar/upper iso plate. These leave your rear end on your isoplate, and locates the iso plate directly onto your spring. Made from mild steel and black oxide treated. Also includes a new Grade 8 bolt & nut for your springs. You will need to provide your own U-bolts and lower (shock) plate. $25 per Pair. $5 Shipping in the Continental US

P/N: CPD005

Lower platefor 73+ Bs and ALL FJM and R bodies. These are generally used in conjunction with P/N CPD004. Water Jet cut from 3/16" mild steel and black oxide treated. Customer to provide their own U-bolts.$50 per Pair. $7 Shipping in the Continental US

P/N: REK001

Consists of CPD004 bushing and CPD005 lower plate.Save a couple dollars when ordering together! Customer still to provide their own U-bolts.$70 for the set. $10 shipping in the Continental US

http://www.solidbushings.com/catalog.html

 

[MiradaMegacab]

These look great, annodized and priced right!

 

[bill55az]

if you have access to good junkyards, the rear isomouont can be eliminated a lot cheaper...
Use early B lower plate/shock mount and early B shocks.
Cut away all the excess on the upper plate, or just drill new holes for the ubolts to pass thru, allowing the ubolts to be next to the spring pack.
Weld in a large shoulder nut to fill in the hole.

 

[bremereric]

if you have access to good junkyards, the rear isomouont can be eliminated a lot cheaper...
Use early B lower plate/shock mount and early B shocks.
Cut away all the excess on the upper plate, or just drill new holes for the ubolts to pass thru, allowing the ubolts to be next to the spring pack.
Weld in a large shoulder nut to fill in the hole.

Bill there are always a lot cheaper ways to do stuff...not everyone though has the skills or tools required cut...drill...weld...that's why I post these off the shelf solutions for everyone...your idea is great also

 

[bill55az]

Bill there are always a lot cheaper ways to do stuff...not everyone though has the skills or tools required cut...drill...weld...that's why I post these off the shelf solutions for everyone...your idea is great also

I don't post my ideas to disagree with others ideas....just to show different ways to do something based on my experience. I have learned quite a bit from others here. Surely I would never use another dakota spring main leaf again, it caused pinion angle problems and I had to use shims. And offsetting springs to use the 8 3/4 axle by moving the tube in the rear shackle mount is a neat trick I learned in a forum.
Innovation should always be shared.
And I am certainly lucky to have so many junkyards near me.
BTW, I don't weld, but I know people who do.....:icon_salut:

 

[mworke]

I just received a set of these solid bushings....they look great. Have not installed them yet but will keep ya posted.

 

[mworke]

Bushings installed!!! Job was straight forward with no issues. Follow the installation instructions on the SolidBushings.com site. Great improvement in handling.

 

[bremereric]

Bushings installed!!! Job was straight forward with no issues. Follow the installation instructions on the SolidBushings.com site. Great improvement in handling.

Thanks for reporting back...Eric

 

[aspen77rt]

Question? I got the kit from solidbushings a while back. The pic below shows some center spring guide bolts.

L to R:
Bolt that comes with the SB Kit
Bolt that came with the SS Springs
Stock bolt for F-body springs and iso set up.

My current setup has SS Springs with the iso crap. So, the bolt from the SB kit will not work in the SS Springs.

I dont mind changing out springs and the front hanger to keep from fabbing something with the SB kit and SS Springs.

The question is, if I go to XHD e-body springs, What is the size of the center spring guide bolt that comes with them? Is it the same diameter as bolts numbers 1 and 3 in the pic below?
.

 

[joeblo]

XHD springs come with the same as the SS springs (num. 2). I bought new spring perches from Mancini and the hole was still a little big, Welded in some spacers and redrilled correct size. Hope this helps.

 

[aspen77rt]

Thanks it does.

 

[MiradaMegacab]

I have used allen head bolts to hold the spring pack together and the round allen head centers the spring perch. This works with 8 3/4 rears or when using some aftermarket perches.

 

[My imp]

I looked online for their website & believe they are out of business. I noticed FFI has adjusted their prices up accordingly! Anyone know of a more reasonably priced set of solid bushings for the Imperial crossmember?

 

[bremereric]

I looked online for their website & believe they are out of business. I noticed FFI has adjusted their prices up accordingly! Anyone know of a more reasonably priced set of solid bushings for the Imperial crossmember?

Thats why my first post has red x's.

 

[bremereric]

After market poly ones are availible from energy suspensions.

 

[Dr Lebaron]

Someone should buy CudaZappa's CNC program and make some.

 

[My imp]

Thats why my first post has red x's.

Not on my server they don't!

 

[NoCar340]

This site no longer exists. This thread can probably be un-stickied since it's no longer relevant.