Michael Joseph Moynihan
Member
After having my BBD rebuilt and adjusted it has gas dripping out of the booster when running. Strong gas smell all the time. Anyone know what can cause this? Thank for any help
Super six still not right
- Thread starter Michael Joseph Moynihan
- Start date
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Sounds like the float level my be too high. One other possibility is the fuel pressure is too high and forcing the needle valve open, but if this a new problem, back to the float level. If it's a brass float, could have a leak and have fuel in it, so it rides to low in the fuel or, a phenolic one could be gas logged and cause the same problem.
When you say
If so, I would talk with them to make it right.
A bad float might be it, but sounds like incorrectly adjusted float and/or trash in the needle/seat.
Either way, the fuel level is too high, it by adjustment or float can't shut off the incoming fuel.
BudW
Did they rebuild your existing carburetor?
If so, I would talk with them to make it right.
A bad float might be it, but sounds like incorrectly adjusted float and/or trash in the needle/seat.
Either way, the fuel level is too high, it by adjustment or float can't shut off the incoming fuel.
BudW
volare 1977
Well-Known Member
My first thought was needle and seat.
AJ/FormS
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What if;
one or more intake valves are not closing? When the piston comes back up on the compression stroke, she will pump some air back up into the intake. If that air or even just the signal makes up to the carb and past the throttle valves, the boosters will sense it and they don't care which way the air goes thru them, so they will drip.
By the time your engine does this, the tuner has usually fudged just about everything into a horrible state of tune, trying to figure it out.
So while I agree with everyone that mentions the floatvalve/floats; I just want to mention that there are other possibilities; and with a solid-lifter engine, I usually start with a valve adjustment and a compression test, and finally verifying the Idle-Timing.
In the case of the not-sealing floatvalve, I usually just pinch the rubber fuel line off. As the fuel level drops, it will run better and better , even speeding up for awhile. But then, as it begins to run out of fuel, it will slow down and eventually sputter to a standstill.
one or more intake valves are not closing? When the piston comes back up on the compression stroke, she will pump some air back up into the intake. If that air or even just the signal makes up to the carb and past the throttle valves, the boosters will sense it and they don't care which way the air goes thru them, so they will drip.
By the time your engine does this, the tuner has usually fudged just about everything into a horrible state of tune, trying to figure it out.
So while I agree with everyone that mentions the floatvalve/floats; I just want to mention that there are other possibilities; and with a solid-lifter engine, I usually start with a valve adjustment and a compression test, and finally verifying the Idle-Timing.
In the case of the not-sealing floatvalve, I usually just pinch the rubber fuel line off. As the fuel level drops, it will run better and better , even speeding up for awhile. But then, as it begins to run out of fuel, it will slow down and eventually sputter to a standstill.
