Really just need a way to secure it to the throttle cable so it’s hard mounted, and the wire can actually pull the kick down lever back on the transmission…could be done with a few tactically placed tactical zip ties while something fancier is made.
Throttle Kickdown with Holley Sniper
- Thread starter dm330
- Start date
Really just need a way to secure it to the throttle cable so it’s hard mounted, and the wire can actually pull the kick down lever back on the transmission…could be done with a few tactically placed tactical zip ties while something fancier is made.
The Holley Throttle Lever Extension is only useful if you're going to use the original kickdown rod setup.
If you are going for the Lokar cables I would recommend you fab up something like Aspen500's picture in post #4.
My experience (with Lokar) is you should have the kickdown cable move the same distance as the throttle cable at any piont.
Therefore the geometrics is important, both cables must be attached the same distance from the carb linkage pivot point.
When I got that right and adjused the kickdown cable so it is at full travel at WOT, I was happy with the shiftpoints on my Aspen.
I made a 4 inch piece of slotted iron and bolted it to the carb in a 11 o'clock - 5 o'clock position. Then I attached the cables to it with about the same distance from the pivot point. Beacause the iron is slotted I can also adjust a little if I'm not satisfied.
I got no picture of my setup and the car is at winter storage now.
Kind of hard for me to explain in english so I made a schetch so you maybe see what I'm trying to say:
If you are going for the Lokar cables I would recommend you fab up something like Aspen500's picture in post #4.
My experience (with Lokar) is you should have the kickdown cable move the same distance as the throttle cable at any piont.
Therefore the geometrics is important, both cables must be attached the same distance from the carb linkage pivot point.
When I got that right and adjused the kickdown cable so it is at full travel at WOT, I was happy with the shiftpoints on my Aspen.
I made a 4 inch piece of slotted iron and bolted it to the carb in a 11 o'clock - 5 o'clock position. Then I attached the cables to it with about the same distance from the pivot point. Beacause the iron is slotted I can also adjust a little if I'm not satisfied.
I got no picture of my setup and the car is at winter storage now.
Kind of hard for me to explain in english so I made a schetch so you maybe see what I'm trying to say:
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Don't forget also, with a cable the tran lever needs a spring to pull it forward, since the cable pulls it rearward.
P.S. My cable setup came from Bouchillan Performance. It's actually a stock Mopar cable with the pieces needed to retrofit.
P.S. My cable setup came from Bouchillan Performance. It's actually a stock Mopar cable with the pieces needed to retrofit.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
BPE TorqueFlite Kickdown Cable Kit - Bouchillon Performance Engineering
I see the price went up. When I bought mine in 1993, they were like $90. The good old days.........Good part is, every piece in the kit is Made in USA (NOT China).
I see the price went up. When I bought mine in 1993, they were like $90. The good old days.........Good part is, every piece in the kit is Made in USA (NOT China).
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Did you try moving the lever up to where it's supposed to be?
I haven't yet. Temperatures are supposed to go up to the 40s and 50s here soon, so I'll give that a shot. I made friends with the guy who started the work on this and he offered to take a look and see what we can do too. At least he has a lift at the shop if it does come to that.
I was just 13 at that time lol but wow, better days back then. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll see what can be done and keep this and the Lokar stuff in mind. One way or another we'll get it figured out, I'm just glad there's options.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
Posted the Bouchillon kit for a possible suggestion. Only thing I did extra was make my own trans lever spring bracket. The one in the kit will work, but it has the spring going at an angle. I made a bracket to drop it down to where the spring is level. Just me, I'm kind of anal about stuff like that. LOL.
Kick down already has a big thick return spring in the valve body. I get wanting a secondary external return spring, but if it’s actually needed to get the kick down lever to return to its neutral position, you need to rebuild/replace your valve body.
I think he can get it done with the stock assembly honestly. May have to bend it a little to get it up to the throttle position, maybe cut the rod and thread it, use a turnbuckle in between to adjust length to set shift points…think @Duke5A did something similar.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
With a cable, you need an external return spring also. My '96 Dakota has a return spring from the factory (cable throttle pressure valve), along with the internal spring.
Have a cable, don’t use a return spring on the kickdown apply arm on the trans, don’t have any problems with it.
It wouldn’t serve a real purpose. if the valve isn’t returning with the internal spring when not under throttle, the valve and spring is binding in the valve body and adding an external return spring to the apply arm wouldn’t do anything for that.
EFI/carbs already have a spring built into the throttle linkage, plus the secondary return springs on the throttle linkage that the kick down cable’s also connect to and being pulled by…don’t need a secondary return spring at the trans.
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Yeah, used that setup for years. Went to a Lokar cable during the big block swap.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
OK fine, forget the spring at the trans then. Do whatever you want.
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Well, Merry Christmas to everyone! I did try moving the throttle rod to the correct spot on my throttle body and that really made it worse, with first shifting to second at 35 mph, so I turned around and headed back to the storage unit and put everything back to the original spot since I got the car back, with the exception of the little screw/nut setup in the slot of the throttle lever, I put that back where I was able to get the best shifts possible with what's there till I can get it back in the shop to replace the linkage. I tried, but was unable to get myself under the car, or at least in a position to see how things were hooked up underneath. We'll get this solved soon enough.
Sounds like the linkage is way out of adjusment (too long).
If I were you I would connect the rod where it is supposed to be (at the throttle cable) and adjust the linkage down at the transmission.
Take a look at this thread with good explanations on how to adjust it and pictures too:
Kick down linkage issues
If I were you I would connect the rod where it is supposed to be (at the throttle cable) and adjust the linkage down at the transmission.
Take a look at this thread with good explanations on how to adjust it and pictures too:
Kick down linkage issues
I have seen a bunch of suggestion on this thread. But I have not seen anyone suggest adjusting the linkage at the tranny. With throttle at WOT the kick down lever should be all the way back. This is should be adjustable without having to redesign the whole system. If want me to I can try to dig up the correct kick down setting out of one of my FSMs.
The very first reply in this thread states where the actual adjustment is for this linkage.
That’s where I was beginning to think the problem was after moving the rod to what the correct location would be at the throttle body. When the shifts became even more out of whack, with first shifting to 2nd at 35mph, I turned the car around and headed back to storage. The car is too low to the ground for me to get underneath to have a look and at an angle the most I could see in the vicinity was the transmission pan and neutral safety switch. I have the FSM for that year along with the page book marked for that linkage. I’ve been talking with the first guy to start the work on this car, who knows a bit about them because he also works on his friend’s 87 Fifth Ave. We’ll have to find a decent weekend to get it up to his shop and on the lift and go from there.
Since my last post on this thread, I did send the car back to the shop that finished the work and had the linkage corrected. It was indeed set up the way it would be installed in a GM product, on a Mopar, it's basically backwards, but now my transmission shifts much better and now the kickdown engages when I need it. The work was finished a couple weeks ago and the weather and roads were decent enough to take out for a good drive today. I took the car up Rt.11 for maybe a 10 mile run and had the speed between 75 and 80 miles per hour and she handled it well. My cruise control also works, so today this car really made me smile.
