Torsion bar bushings

Chassis, Suspension and wheels

  1. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    decided to tear into replacing my torsion bar bushings with the lovely 50 degree weather we got today.
    Torsion bars are out of the car and the spot welds are already drilled out to separate the metal housings.
    My question: the Poly Bushing, bushing kit comes with frame isolators that are pre split to make install easy as pie. Can I split the bushings that mount to the lower control arm in the same fashion to make install easy or do I need to cut the pin and press the bar out of the bushing housing/assembly?
     
  2. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    You bought the replacement bushings separate from the shell? The easiest part of this is getting the old shell off of the bars and that involves removing the pin. If you can somehow get these separate from the bars the hard part is separating the shell to get to the bushing. There is a reason everyone attempts to get their hands on the Moog replacements, so they don't have to deal with this. I hope you weren't planning on getting the car back together tonight.

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  3. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    Ok but, my question is, can I slice the new bar end bushings to install them without dealing with pressing the pin...Already sliced the old bushing off with a razor blade and was going to clean the bar with a wire wheel and paint it.

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  4. Duke5A

    Duke5A Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, I don't know. I could never get the shell apart without butchering it beyond I point where I didn't want to reuse it. I have to imagine if they were supposed to be installed by slitting it then it would already have come that way like the pivot bushings.

    The two times I did this job I found pairs of the Moog replacements that already had the shell. Someone else will have to chime in.
     
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  5. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I would highly recommend not splitting the bushing. Hard to say if it would create a problem. My thought is, if it was split, it could squeeze out of the shell after a while. Cut the head off the rivet and drive it out. The tough part is getting the bushing sleeve off the end of the bar. Forty+ years of corrosion might have it seemingly welded together. On the one bar I overhauled (the other was a new one from the dealer), I took it to work and rigged it up in the press and it still wouldn't budge. Ended up CAREFULLY slitting the inner sleeve to get it apart but I had a complete replacement mount assy. Hopefully you have better luck!

    It's been awhile so my memory may be hazy but, even with it off, the bushing still has to fit over the sway bar end link bracket to get it on (yes?) so not sure how that's done.
     
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  6. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    End link bracket is its own piece separate from the torsion bar and the bushing shaft. Looks like I’ll be taking it to work and pressing it apart (have everything soaked in Evaporust and wrapped in Saran Wrap to break the rust up and make things a little easier tomorrow morning)
    I want to weld in the holes from drilling out the spot welds anyway, definitely removes a lot of material from the shells drilling them out.
    Oh well, now I have to drive my MKZ for a day. Could be worse.
    Edit: thanks for the replies. I had heavily weighed the option of slicing the bushing and positioning it so the split would be lined up with the seam where the two shells come together (so the force on the bar end wasn’t directly on the cut) but, as Aspen mentioned, the concern of the bushing walking out was my first thought and I don’t want to waste good Poly Bushings. Johnny had made this set to order and I don’t want to chance them not being available now.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2020
  7. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    Earlier tonight, I sent Johnny Spiva over at Poly Bushing an email about slicing his bushings. Surprised I got a response on a Sunday, great guy and customer service.
    Guess I have a decision to make in the morning.

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  8. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    I still wouldn't do it (JMO).

    Like I mentioned, it's been awhile and I couldn't remember the sleeve and sway bar mount were one piece or not. They say the first thing to go is the memory and I can't remember the 2nd thing...:D
     
  9. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    Ive some real nice nos T bar assemblies.

    I swear the FF ones I used were pre split. Been like 5 years I took pics then and can dig them up.
     
  10. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    Got the car back together late last night. Ended up splitting the bushings. Put about 27 miles on the car today, overall ride quality and handling have been drastically improved with the new bushings installed. Checked out the bushing placement when I got home tonight, everything looked alright and still positioned the same, bolts are still tight. Those Poly bushing are hard as. To slice through them, I ended up heating up my good filet knife with MAP gas and slicing through it with a red hot blade; I need a new good filet knife now. Did my best to make the cuts at a 45 degree angle through the material so when the shells got bolted back down together, they’d close the cut in the bushing up real tight. Seems to have worked out.
    I’ll never know if they’ll hold up for 30 years though. Cars going to get the 300# FF torsion bars with the big block swap.
     
  11. Peter

    Peter Member

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    I just ordered a set from Johnny, he sent to Australia for me, really helped me out, the bushes look great and a good price. This blog has been really helpful as i need to do mine, they squeak like crazy even after soaking them in silicon lube. Thanks all for your comments.