Torsion bar end bushings

[Sublime440]

How exactly do you "split" the shells open on the torsion bar end bushings? I know the pivot bushings need to be drilled out near the 4 corners, is this the same method to split the shells on the end of the bars? I'm trying to skip having to drill the rivet out and my thinking is if I split the shells I can burn out the rest of the remaining bushing, slide the new bushing on, reclamp the shell and reweld it if I have to.

Thanks

 

[Jack Meoff]

Good to see you found us Sublime....
Are you stalking me?.....
Hopefully someone here can get you some answers.

 

[Sublime440]

Of course I'm stalking you...how in the hell did you manage to become a mod? oke:

I forgot to capitalize the first letter in my username...is there anyway to fix that?

I'm about to say screw replacing these bushings and just run it. It's taking me much longer than I thought to degrease and repaint the K frame and all the suspension pieces.

 

[Jack Meoff]

Of course I'm stalking you...how in the hell did you manage to become a mod? oke:

I forgot to capitalize the first letter in my username...is there anyway to fix that?

I'm about to say screw replacing these bushings and just run it. It's taking me much longer than I thought to degrease and repaint the K frame and all the suspension pieces.

Can't help with the T bars but I'll fix your name once I figure out this dang control panel....

 

[tallboy]

Hi Sublime440, if you burn out the bushings, you risk to temper the steel and remove the spring action. The bar must not be scratched or damaged in any way, you risk a broken torsion bar! Remember to use soft jaws on your vise when clamping the bar.

As for replacing the bushings:
Drill out the rivet, manual says: center punchthe rivet, drill 3/8" hole 1/2" deep, use a 5/16" rod to drive the rivet out, others describe using way more force than this! Do NOT enlarge the hole in the rod. Manual say the bushing should slide off easily, but I have also seen descriptions of heavy sledgehammers needed for the job! As for splitting them: I have only seen this described, I have never done it myself, but from what I read, this can be a real bitch! Split with a cold chisel, but be prepared to do some cosmetic work to the metal shell before reassembly.

You could search the net, you'll find plenty stories about the struggle to replace these bushings! I have this job on my to-do list, so I cannot provide more hands-on info. My point is mainly to avoid damaging the torsion bar.

tallboy

 

[NoCar340]

That area of the torsion bar acts as a strut rod, not a spring. Short of getting the bar glowing orange, you won't hurt the temper. As far as nicking or scratching the bar in that area, it won't have the same effect as damage as the straight section across the front since it has no torsional load between the pivot and the control arm.

This is not to recommend sloppy work or to just start hacking away at it, but in the event of minor damage it will not explode in the manner of an earlier straight torsion bar.

 

[Diplomat_Wagon]

If you go to my Cordoba stock car thread I did them. You have to drill out the spot welds and then clamp them back together and re-weld them.

 

[L98TPI]

I saw no need to weld them. The bolts that hold them on do an excellent job of clamping the halves together.

Check this thread. Torsion bar details and the saga of my rebuild.
http://www.forfmjbodiesonly.com/classicmopar/showthread.php?79-PolyBushings-com&p=28470#post28470