TorsionBar End Bushings

[dkamp]

I am in process of obtaining polybushings #1100 and #1102
I dont understand and hope someone can help me, I've read so many posts recently about the troubles getting the rivet drilled and pressing off the end bushing.
Is there any problems you can point out to me if I remove the torsion bar, drill out the spot welds and split the casing, then clean off the old bushing and put on the Poly bushing that I was told by Johnny Spiva are already split. Spot weld the shell back as it was and reinstall?
Am I asking for issues to occur this way?
Am I naïvely overlooking something?
Explain this to me, or if a procedure exists other than one on the dippy site, please point me in the right direction.
(77Diplomat Suspension)

 

[AMC Diplomat]

Yeah split the spot welds on the case, cut or burn the old rubber bushing off, put your poly bushing on, and bolt it back on to the control arm. You don't need to weld it. And you don't need to grind off the rivet to remove the end, since I'm assuming you don't have another one and if you wreck that end piece you're shit out of luck.

This thread has really good pics of a bushing assembly fully apart, just to give you an idea, but if your replacements poly bushings are already split, you don't have to go this far. Link: Torsion-Bar nightmare

 

[dkamp]

I drilled and split my metal casings, cleaned off the old rubber with a small wire wheel. I did not drill and remove the end from the Torsion bar.
The PolyBushings showed up today and I'm stumped on an item and I'm hoping someone can guide me.
The #1102 round bushing is Not split. The end cap washer that is welded on is too large to install the bushing.
Should I split the #1102 Round End to get it installed?

 

[Camtron]

I drilled and split my metal casings, cleaned off the old rubber with a small wire wheel. I did not drill and remove the end from the Torsion bar.
The PolyBushings showed up today and I'm stumped on an item and I'm hoping someone can guide me.
The #1102 round bushing is Not split. The end cap washer that is welded on is too large to install the bushing.
Should I split the #1102 Round End to get it installed?

You can split it (I talked to Johnny about it years ago) I did it that way myself. However if you have a grinder and welder, it would be better to grind the welds on the washer, remove the old rubber bushing and slip the new one on, and then weld the washer back on. Just keep a wet rag wrapped around the new bushing while you weld the washer.

 

[AMC Diplomat]

Getting that end off by drilling out that rivet can be a real pain. Link: PolyBushings.com

There's a right way to do it and then there's the way that works.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

You can split it (I talked to Johnny about it years ago) I did it that way myself.

...but if you are going to split it, try cutting in DIAGNOALLY as opposed to just ACROSS...doing so will spread the push&pull forces across a larger plane and you are going to be less likely for the bushing to slip, etc.

 

[dkamp]

I talked to Johnny at PolyBushings and he advised to cut with a Hack saw Long ways, then make sure the split is not pointing Up or Down, point it to the side.
PolyBushings is Very good at helping out!
During Reassembly I discovered how important it is to clock the Torsion bar adjustment. You end up with more experience on the disassembly/assembly process.

 

[Remow2112]

Hardest thing I have ever done on an Fbody. Drilling out the spot welds didn't work. Had to cut length wise at the split. Had to drill out the retaining rivet. It would not budge at all. Then the joy of trying to get the original end off after the rivet removal was a beast too. I wish you luck, it is doable but I found it to be a beast of a job.

 

[volare 1977]

Hardest thing I have ever done on an Fbody. Drilling out the spot welds didn't work. Had to cut length wise at the split. Had to drill out the retaining rivet. It would not budge at all. Then the joy of trying to get the original end off after the rivet removal was a beast too. I wish you luck, it is doable but I found it to be a beast of a job.

I agree

 

[dkamp]

On My install, the end bushing #1102 was not on the fun category for the install.
The #1100 pivot bushing was easier, but I had some issues.
There is a small gap at the bottom of the bushing.

I talked to Johnny at Polybushings, he suggested to add a 1/8' plate above the bushing. I did but it did not help much.
He replied that he had not seen this issue and had no recommendations.

I wonder if just leaving it alone with the gap will affect my alignment or anything?

 

[Camtron]

You’re not going to notice any difference or have issue with alignment. I don’t even want to think about how hard you’d have to load the suspension to get the bar to lift/lower off the frame and bushings. You’d bend the chassis and control arms trying to find out.
If he’s saying it’s the first he’s never heard of it, either no one else has complained or he’s lying. Happens to every set of poly pivot bushings I have ever seen installed.
Visual inspection, if required in your state for registration, could be an issue; to be fair though, some state inspection techs will flag an older Chrysler just over the play at 12O’Clock in the factory steering gearbox on a mint car.

 

[volare 1977]

On My install, the end bushing #1102 was not on the fun category for the install.
The #1100 pivot bushing was easier, but I had some issues.
There is a small gap at the bottom of the bushing.
View attachment 56430
I talked to Johnny at Polybushings, he suggested to add a 1/8' plate above the bushing. I did but it did not help much.
He replied that he had not seen this issue and had no recommendations.

I wonder if just leaving it alone with the gap will affect my alignment or anything?

I still think (but really don`t know) it has some type of hardness issue ( bushing too soft and can`t hold that amount of pressure) But that`s just my opinion

 

[dkamp]

Thank you Camtron. I feel better knowing that it will not affect my alignment.
I have another non related question related to torsion bushing replacements.
When adjusting ride height, the closest I can get is about 1/4" from Left to right sides measured at the crossmember cushion bolt head to ground.
is 1/4" close enough?

 

[volare 1977]

I found I needed to bounce the car quite a bit for it to settle and get a good measurement

 

[Camtron]

You can get it closer, like Volare said, you really gotta really bounce the front end to get it to settle correctly between adjustments. I’m 6’4 and 250lbs and I still needed my buddy to help bounce it hard enough to get it to settle.
Would do it myself and go for a cruise or two, then realize it was still sitting crooked and ended up chasing my own tail for a couple weeks.

 

[Duke5A]

My car has the same issue. I'm using Firm Feel torsion bars and pivot bushings. They also recommended a thicker bottom plate I tried it didn't do anything. If I had to guess poly bushing is just deforming. I've thought about going back to rubber if I could find a set.

 

[volare 1977]

My car has the same issue. I'm using Firm Feel torsion bars and pivot bushings. They also recommended a thicker bottom plate I tried it didn't do anything. If I had to guess poly bushing is just deforming. I've thought about going back to rubber if I could find a set.

Tried NOS bushings and one tore just trying to get it on. I gave up on them. I assume it either takes a special tool /method or the bushings were dry rot.

 

[volare 1977]

BTW, I have to agree the poly is deforming from the extreme pressure on that bushing.

 

[Duke5A]

Was NOS all you could find? I wouldn't try 40 year old rubber bushings, but if it's all you can find...