Voltage regulator interchange question

AMC Diplomat

AMC Diplomat

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Are mopar 4111990, 5234625, 4379225 really all the same voltage regulator? I mean, a mopar voltage regulator is a mopar voltage regulator, right? Or is there some mopar magical difference between these part numbers?
 
on rockauto.com they indicate they are interchangeable; however, 2 come with 3 year warranties and 1 comes with 1 year warranty.

I have no knowledge of their integrity as I am just now in need of one -- well, the pigtail for one anyway.

JW
 
so, I've now determined that there could be three different alternators from 60 up to 100 amps... Perhaps that is a determining factor.
What size is your alternator?
JW
 
Mopar lists the 523 part number for
"Applications:
1984-89. 1980-87. 1981-89. 1984-87. 1988-91. 1988-89. BOSCH, 40/90 AMP. CHRYSLER, 50/120 AMP."

So that covers all applications for these cars, the 80s ones anyway. They don't list the other numbers.
 
Mikes5thAve said:
Mopar lists the 523 part number for
"Applications:
1984-89. 1980-87. 1981-89. 1984-87. 1988-91. 1988-89. BOSCH, 40/90 AMP. CHRYSLER, 50/120 AMP."

So that covers all applications for these cars, the 80s ones anyway. They don't list the other numbers.
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
Yeah it's weird. A voltage regulator should, in theory, just regulate the voltage. And I see some places ask an arm and a leg for one and others it's $10 nos. So I started wondering if there's really a difference between the mopar part numbers and going down the rabbit hole on the electrical fire problem and I found the regulator is some weird aftermarket, the alternator is some weird aftermarket rebuild, and so is the starter. I picked up the correct mopar alternator nos and an aftermarket mini starter nos. Because I want everything to be right and not burn up new parts, I want the regulator to be right too.
 
The melted wiring problem was probably from a half ass repair or damaged insulation. It's hard to judge but I thought one picture looked like the positive cable was against the exhaust for example. But usually burning wires is from shorts or overloading circuits.

For the regulator I've always gone to parts store and ordered one for $20 or whatever they were.
 
Mikes5thAve said:
The melted wiring problem was probably from a half ass repair or damaged insulation. It's hard to judge but I thought one picture looked like the positive cable was against the exhaust for example. But usually burning wires is from shorts or overloading circuits.

For the regulator I've always gone to parts store and ordered one for $20 or whatever they were.
Click to expand...
Oh I agree. But if I'm in for a penny, in for a pound
 
This is the regulator I went with. It's a made in USA repop. Only downside is they only come with the diagonal mounting holes, hence the adapter plate.

20230503_115657.jpg
 
Yea, I forgot about that they changed the regulator mounting hole locations on the later years.
 
Reason the aftermarket ones have 3 holes. Main reason for the repop, other than thr made in USA part (and not China) is it "look right".
 
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