well this sucks

[Mopar&vettedude]

I just took my car out for a ride, and the car was still running great since the ignition swap. But i was leaving my local advance auto and i drove over 2 speed bumps, i went to step on the gas to take off and the car stalled out. So i popped it in neutral and it started back up, dropped it back into drive and it stalled out again. this time it didnt start at all, it just cranks over but does get fuel to the carb. the other thing i notice is that when i shut the key off the crank runs back an inch like something is pushing it back. the starter isnt stuck i know that, i'm under the impression that its either the new distributor or the chain jumped or broke. Any thoughts?

 

[Dr Lebaron]

Could be a wiped plastic timing gear.
You can try to loosen the distributor and advance/retard the timing, see what happens.
A big advance/retard for idle will say timing.

 

[Jack Meoff]

No expert but I'd say distributor too.
Jumped or broken drive gear?
If you had a second pair of hands you could pull the cap and crank it and see what the rotor is doing. If it's erratic you'd know.

 

[Mopar&vettedude]

well the distributor doesn't have a drive gear at the bottom, but it does have the key that locks into a big gear that runs off the cam, or that might be the drive gear your talking about. I take it that's what is making the crank run back a little when i shut off the key?

 

[Jack Meoff]

I don't think I understand this distributor.

 

[80mirada]

Chrysler V8s use an Oil pump drive shaft that has the distributor drive gear attached to the top of it, that then has an indexed slot that the distributor's shaft fits into. The Chrysler Slant 6 has the drive gear attached to the bottom of the distributors shaft similar to most other engines.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3690715/overview/make/dodge

p.s. that is the one you need if you run a high volume oil pump, the stock one can fail due to the extra load

 

[80mirada]

double check the distributor for vertical movement in the shaft, and check to see if the distributor has turned. it sounds like you are out of time.

 

[Aspen500]

I believe they are referring to the camshaft drive gear that the timing chain runs. The originals are aluminum with nylon teeth molded on (for quiet operation) but tend to suddenly have the teeth disintegrate once they get worn to a certain point and the heat has made the nylon deteriorate. Been there a couple times in the distant past!

It would be extremely rare for the distributor drive gear to fail on a Mopar, especially on a stock or near stock engine. On a Ford or Chevy yes, Mopar no.

 

[Dr Lebaron]

I believe they are referring to the camshaft drive gear that the timing chain runs. The originals are aluminum with nylon teeth molded on (for quiet operation) but tend to suddenly have the teeth disintegrate once they get worn to a certain point and the heat has made the nylon deteriorate. Been there a couple times in the distant past!

It would be extremely rare for the distributor drive gear to fail on a Mopar, especially on a stock or near stock engine. On a Ford or Chevy yes, Mopar no.

2X
I already said wiped timing gear due to nylon gear.
I've moved the advance to limp them home or shop the times it happened.

 

[Mopar&vettedude]

Well I had the car flatbedded home. Then I pushed the car in the back and tried to start it. It fired right back up. I'm starting to think that its the crappy ass distributor I picked up for 50 bucks.

 

[Jack Meoff]

Could be. The old you get what you pay for thing?

 

[compubert]

had the brain in mine do that before, have two mounted now, when one quits, I connect the other one, and it goes... Chinese brains..