What amp alternator would my car have come with?

wvdodgemirada

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The car is a 1981 dodge Mirada. It came with a 318, and had AC. Long story short I currently have a 50 amp on it, and am curious if anyone can tell me what amp alternator it originally came with? I'm pretty sure it would've been the 78 amp.
 

greymouser7

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rebuilt mopar alternators (la$t time I bought one) at O'Reilly's ran $65 and was rated for 75 amps.

You have a 12+volt system, calculate how much you need against your loads: A/C, coil/plugs, exterior lights, interior lights, wiper motor, radio & speakers... You want to run more wattage output than you have loads-but not to much. I checked google

watts=voltage (12.5) X current

"Divide the number of watts you are using by the number of volts you are pulling. For example if your running 2000 watts and have a voltage reading of 14.4 then 2000/14.4= ~139amps. That is roughly how many amps you need plus the other things such as lights, a/c, etc."


________________
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2012/10/17/how-to-choose-an-alternator/

Choosing the Right Alternator for Your Vehicle

Selecting the right alternator comes down to figuring out your vehicle’s total electrical load. The most accurate way to determine electrical load is with an ammeter. With the engine off and the battery charged, connect an ammeter in series with the battery’s ground terminal. Switch each electrical component on and off, noting their amperage draws. Add up the total ammeter readings. Your alternator output should be 50 percent greater than that figure.

If you don’t have an ammeter, you can estimate electrical load by checking the accessory fuses. The amp ratings will be slightly higher than the highest draw of each component , but the sum of all fuse ratings will give you a general idea of the vehicle’s electrical load.

Electrical accessories chart:

Amp Draw

Accessory: Amp Draw:
Air Conditioner 20-21
Audio Power Amplifiers 10-70
Back-up Lamps 3-4
Cigarette Lighter 10-12
CD/Tuner with amp 7-14
CD/Player/Tuner without amp 2.5-5
Clock 0.3
Dome Light 1-2
Electric Cooling Fans 6-15
Head Lamp Dimmer 2
Head Lamp (Low Beam) 8-10
Head Lamp (High Beam) 13-15
Heater Defroster 6-15
Horn 10-20
Ignition 1.5-4
Ignition (Racing) 8-36
Instrument Panel 0.7-1.5
Lamp, Gauges 1.5-3.5
Lamps, License Plate 1.5-2
Lamps, Parking 1.5-2
Lamps, Side Marker 1.3-3
Lamps, Tail 5-7
Nitrous Oxide Solenoid 5-8
Power Windows Defroster 1-30
Power Seats 25-50
Power Windows 20-30
Power Antenna 6-10
Pumps, Electric Fuel 3-8
Starter Solenoid 10-12
Voltage Regulators (1 Wire) 0.3-0.5


"Once you’ve determined the electrical load of your vehicle, there are a couple of things to keep in mind as you are choosing your alternator. First, you can never have too much amperage. Again, amperage is defined as the total electrical capacity of your alternator, and it is impossible to have too much electrical capacity???.

While most alternators are only about 75-percent efficient (some power is lost in the form of heat and wind resistance from the cooling fins), a higher amp alternator will recover lost horsepower by allowing your electrical system to run at maximum voltage."
 
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wvdodgemirada

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Don't know, but how is the stroker project?
Very well, had a few little issues, went threw another coil, so I switched to a high vibration epoxy filled one. And I just picked up a large enough carburetor to feed the beast.
 

wvdodgemirada

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Lot of good information greymouser7. Thank you. The reason I'm asking is because since I put the new engine/trans in the cars been a touch on the warm side as far as water temp. I know its because I'm running a fan without a shroud, which is why I'm planning on getting a dual electric fan setup with a shroud which will cure my low speed warm up, granted it only gets to about 200, but id like it to be cooler than that. So with the setup I'm looking at its 18 amps for the two fans and figured I should get a larger alternator to support that and my major concern was I know the older mopars had the ammeter problem and I'm pretty sure that they used a shunt in the 80's or something? Essentially can I upgrade to a higher amp alternator and be fine?
 

greymouser7

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Very well, had a few little issues, went threw another coil, so I switched to a high vibration epoxy filled one. And I just picked up a large enough carburetor to feed the beast.

I went through a BUNCH of coils when I had a BAD VOLTAGE REGULATOR.

I bought a high end one-maybe a race or something, burned up coils one after another. Maybe don't use the $20 dollar jobbers at the parts store-maybe you should get a Mopar one from summit or Jegs or some other reputable dealer.
 

greymouser7

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Lot of good information greymouser7. Thank you. The reason I'm asking is because since I put the new engine/trans in the cars been a touch on the warm side as far as water temp. I know its because I'm running a fan without a shroud, which is why I'm planning on getting a dual electric fan setup with a shroud which will cure my low speed warm up, granted it only gets to about 200, but id like it to be cooler than that. So with the setup I'm looking at its 18 amps for the two fans and figured I should get a larger alternator to support that and my major concern was I know the older mopars had the ammeter problem and I'm pretty sure that they used a shunt in the 80's or something? Essentially can I upgrade to a higher amp alternator and be fine?

200 degrees is not bad. Make sure that you are not running a 22" radiator like I was for my 4000 pound road runner (340/stick-ran hard) because then you might have problems in stop and go road traffic or highway speeds like I did. The shroud makes the difference.

I would not wast my time with an electric fan setup- get a Mopar clutch-7 blade fan setup. the fan spins enough to cool your car no matter what and does not spin too much at high speeds. The stock and Mopar Performance stuff is MORE THAN ADEQUATE to keep you cool enough. I have read allot of forum opinions that suggest a 190 thermostat and not something low like a 180 degree thermostat- others here on this forum disagree. I think it would not be too much of a concern in West Virginia.
 

wvdodgemirada

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I went through a BUNCH of coils when I had a BAD VOLTAGE REGULATOR.

I bought a high end one-maybe a race or something, burned up coils one after another. Maybe don't use the $20 dollar jobbers at the parts store-maybe you should get a Mopar one from summit or Jegs or some other reputable dealer.
Interesting that you mentioned this, cause I've gone through two red mad blaster 2 coils, and one accel chrome. Each lasted roughly one year or less. I do have the coil mounted on the intake and figured it was due to the heat and the fact it is sideways. I have a blue Mopar voltage regulator on the car. So a bad voltage regulator will take a coil out?
 
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wvdodgemirada

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Now when you say 22 radiater your talking about core, not overall correct? I've always ran a 160 thermostat. And even on a cool 60 degree evening, sun going down it'll warm up in stop and go more than I think it should.
 
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