What is no-brainer to replace with T-bars?

[LSM360]

Ordering Firmfeels 1.25" T-bars for my '89 AHB now that they finally are manufacturing again. I'm trying to think what I should also replace while front end is dropped. Everything has already been done as far as suspension with FF stuff (solid bushings, all urethane, Fast Ratio arms, etc.

Is there anything else that should be replaced while front end is dropped? I was considering the tubular upper arms but are those even going to be pulled to do T-bars? I can't remember.

Basically I want to have anything on hand and I am replacing front shocks. The steering box is any more accessible with bars dropped, right?

What else should I order?

Thank you!

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Shortly before my torsion bar bushings were done years ago i had the control arm bushings done and sway bar bushings including the donuts on the hangers that go through the frame. It sounds like you've done all that so it's the torsion bar bushings themselves that would still be needed.

 

[Aspen500]

The upper arms don't need to be removed or detached from the steering knuckle.

The t-bars are transverse, just behind the radiator, and are nowhere close to the steering box.

You will need to use the old bushing shells on the new bars, along with new end and pivot bushings, as mentioned in Mike's above post. If you get FF pivot bushings, also get their wide upper plates. With the stock plates, the bushings will hang off the edge since poly ones are a little wider than stock rubber.

 

[M_Body_Coupe]

Just "thinking out loud" here you guys...I have a tiny connection to the Mexican auto-parts industry...small one to be sure, but I am honestly struggling a bit with the progibitively high cost of getting tooling set up to run a batch (albeit a BIG one) of the various metal parts we need for this.

Yes, I am thinking stuff like the dreaded metal shells for the pivot bushing, maybe even the end pieces, although those are more complex from a shape perspective.

Anyways...Windsor, ON, Canada (where I live) was built on the Big-Three & Auto Industry (across the border from Detroit, MI after all), and that means (even to this day, although much smaller now) the town was full of 'Tool and Die' shops. I know a number of these guys, some have retired, some are still actively working.

This in my mind begs the question: why could I not reproduce the metal parts by having someone make the die and using that die to stamp out as many pieces as we need.

Yes, I am oversimplifying here, you of course need a whole lot of other stuff to be settled first, heck, stuff like thickness of the metal sheet you are going to use, therefore the required pressure to form with, therefore the size of the press...is it going to be HOT or COLD, etc, etc...but...

I myself work for an auto supplier, that's been the last 25+ yrs of my professional life, although in the IT domain, however I've spent plenty of time on the shop floor and could certainly talk my way through a press stamping operation and all the required Process/Ops setups on the machine...so yeah, thus the struggle! lol

Not sure where (if anywhere) this will go, but I'm starting the investigation here...

 

[LSM360]

The upper arms don't need to be removed or detached from the steering knuckle.

The t-bars are transverse, just behind the radiator, and are nowhere close to the steering box.

You will need to use the old bushing shells on the new bars, along with new end and pivot bushings, as mentioned in Mike's above post. If you get FF pivot bushings, also get their wide upper plates. With the stock plates, the bushings will hang off the edge since poly ones are a little wider than stock rubber.

Okay thanks. I was picturing things not looking in engine bay at time (break at work) and didn't picture the steering box being replaced from underneath but I just want to take advantage of the room however possible. Thanks again. Now I'm just waiting on them and they'll probably wait for multiple orders so I'm guessing several months.

 

[Aspen500]

I know how that goes. You could do something 100 times but then have a hard time picturing it in your mind.

 

[Camtron]

Aside the bars and bushings themselves, swaybar end links and bushings. The swaybar end links connect to the collar that’s around the torsion bar end, so good time to freshen them up while it’s all apart.

 

[LSM360]

Aside the bars and bushings themselves, swaybar end links and bushings. The swaybar end links connect to the collar that’s around the torsion bar end, so good time to freshen them up while it’s all apart.

I've done those with urethane too thanks. I was actually thinking about an aftermarket sway bar though. I do have an AHB so it already has a larger one but I'm tempted to do an addco bar (if available for M's).

 

[Duke5A]

I've done those with urethane too thanks. I was actually thinking about an aftermarket sway bar though. I do have an AHB so it already has a larger one but I'm tempted to do an addco bar (if available for M's).

The top end of your motor is aluminum, right? Don't bother. With the 300# t-bars and alloy heads the AHB sway bar is perfect. Only reason I'm wanting a FF front bar now is because of the added weight of the big block. You've probably got less over the nose of the car than it had from the factory.

 

[LSM360]

The top end of your motor is aluminum, right? Don't bother. With the 300# t-bars and alloy heads the AHB sway bar is perfect. Only reason I'm wanting a FF front bar now is because of the added weight of the big block. You've probably got less over the nose of the car than it had from the factory.

I have aluminum intake but iron heads small block 408. Thanks.