Where to buy a 4 core radiator?
- Thread starter User0511
- Start date
I've never looked into it, and here's why:
Right off the bat, it bears mentioning that copper/brass radiators are far more effective conductors of heat. Aluminum is not nearly as good but it's much cheaper, hence its popularity in the aftermarket and now OEMs. Personally, I pay the extra (if I have to) for a copper/brass every time. Hot-rod radiators (like Be Cool and others) are also significantly stronger. Why that's a concern, I don't know. I've never broken a radiator and don't consider its crashworthiness at time of purchase. :icon_biggrin:
Next thing is row count. Ever notice there was never a Mopar built with a factory 4-row radiator? Chrysler's "Extra Care in Engineering" slogan wasn't a joke. In their testing of other manufacturer's 4-row radiators, the Highland Park crew discovered that after passing the first three rows, the air had absorbed so much heat that it actually increased the temperature of the fourth row. Yes, the aftermarket offers "Heatbuster" and similar 4-row radiators for Mopar applications, but Mopar never did originally because the last row is at best useless. That being said, it might be worthwhile on an aluminum radiator, since aluminum is not as effective at shedding heat. Again, "hot rod" radiators differ because they often use two really-wide rows rather than four, throwing it all out the window. It saves them costs on their already ridiculously-priced product.
Personally, I've used a truck radiator in the FMJ engine bay. I just got a new one, copper/brass 3-row for a '78 D200 with a 360 and AC (Ready-Rad part number 433889), for $190 to my doorstep from Amazon. I bought it for the Imperial. It's sitting in my living room, in fact. Same hose configuration as original, but you have to open up the core support to fit it and drill new holes to mount it. I'm going to use a factory truck shroud with a clutch fan, and have no worries about cooling even with turbocharging's sky-high underhood temps and a 195° thermostat. As far as locating it correctly, the last time I did it I used the fan & shroud to make sure everything was centered and I believe I was able to use two existing radiator mounting holes (it's a little foggy, I was drinking an awful lot back then).
As a final note, I think "hot rod" radiators look like crap, especially polished. Radiators should be black, not taking away from the glorious horsepower generator centered in the engine bay. Not everything has to be shiny... just ask your ball joints. :icon_biggrin:
My two cents' worth and the thought process behind it. Do with it what you will.
Right off the bat, it bears mentioning that copper/brass radiators are far more effective conductors of heat. Aluminum is not nearly as good but it's much cheaper, hence its popularity in the aftermarket and now OEMs. Personally, I pay the extra (if I have to) for a copper/brass every time. Hot-rod radiators (like Be Cool and others) are also significantly stronger. Why that's a concern, I don't know. I've never broken a radiator and don't consider its crashworthiness at time of purchase. :icon_biggrin:
Next thing is row count. Ever notice there was never a Mopar built with a factory 4-row radiator? Chrysler's "Extra Care in Engineering" slogan wasn't a joke. In their testing of other manufacturer's 4-row radiators, the Highland Park crew discovered that after passing the first three rows, the air had absorbed so much heat that it actually increased the temperature of the fourth row. Yes, the aftermarket offers "Heatbuster" and similar 4-row radiators for Mopar applications, but Mopar never did originally because the last row is at best useless. That being said, it might be worthwhile on an aluminum radiator, since aluminum is not as effective at shedding heat. Again, "hot rod" radiators differ because they often use two really-wide rows rather than four, throwing it all out the window. It saves them costs on their already ridiculously-priced product.
Personally, I've used a truck radiator in the FMJ engine bay. I just got a new one, copper/brass 3-row for a '78 D200 with a 360 and AC (Ready-Rad part number 433889), for $190 to my doorstep from Amazon. I bought it for the Imperial. It's sitting in my living room, in fact. Same hose configuration as original, but you have to open up the core support to fit it and drill new holes to mount it. I'm going to use a factory truck shroud with a clutch fan, and have no worries about cooling even with turbocharging's sky-high underhood temps and a 195° thermostat. As far as locating it correctly, the last time I did it I used the fan & shroud to make sure everything was centered and I believe I was able to use two existing radiator mounting holes (it's a little foggy, I was drinking an awful lot back then).
As a final note, I think "hot rod" radiators look like crap, especially polished. Radiators should be black, not taking away from the glorious horsepower generator centered in the engine bay. Not everything has to be shiny... just ask your ball joints. :icon_biggrin:
My two cents' worth and the thought process behind it. Do with it what you will.
jasperjacko
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2011
- Messages
- 1,672
- Reaction score
- 251
I agree no-car. I never understood the chevy guys with the chrome alt bracket, dipstick, and master cylinder cover!?
Jack Meoff
Mopar Maniac
For me stock appearing is the way to go.
I bought a copper/brass OEM rad for my Fifth.
Don't like aluminum....heard too many bad things about them.
I bought a copper/brass OEM rad for my Fifth.
Don't like aluminum....heard too many bad things about them.
I had a spare, but it ended up accidentally going with a pile of radiators I gave to a friend that runs demolition derbies. I was not impressed with myself on that one, which is why I ended up having to buy a new one. Advance Auto Parts sells the same radiator I bought at the same price, according to their site. No shipping if it goes to your local store, assuming you have one. Now that CarQuest is a part of Advance, though, the same might apply for their stores which are more-widely dispersed.
tim berry
Well-Known Member
I had mine recored with 3 rows for under $400 I did this because the replacement I ordered did not fit plus it was all made in the us . no problems with temp runs right at 180 with the ac going (when its working ) yeh chrome don't get ya home
alf44
Well-Known Member
i got a factory salvage yard rad for my /6. cleaned it good and painted the outer brackets and tanks with VHT semi gloss black, then used VHT aluminum paint on the fins. looks good and the paint in no way hurts the cooling. runs just a tick above half on the gauge
