Wrong part number on carb

[Deano]

I'm trying to go through Mike's Carburetors to purchase a rebuild kit. Told them I needed one for a Carter BBD. They asked me what the part number on the carb was, so I sent them a pic of the passenger side fuel bowl. He says "That's not a BBD. The part number says it's a BB". I'm sure a lot of you know that a BB is a 1-barrel. BBDs are 2- barrel. Then he asks me to send pics of the outside of it. So I did. He says "Well, with pics of the outside of the carb, we can narrow it down to 5 kits. We really need to know how long the accellerator pump is." So I unwillingly take the top off the carb and notice that the floats are set at around 1/2". So I do my best to readjust them and put it back together without measuring the pump. Now the car starts right away, but idles like shit.

When I put it all back together, did I get something backwards or not seated correctly? I couldn't tell if I got the metering rods back in their respective receptacles or not. But like I said, it starts right up and stays running (idles like crap) when before I would have to crank and crank and try a few times to keep it idling (idled good after a bit.)

Anyway, is there a possibility that they casted the wrong number on my BBD?

 

[Mikes5thAve]

Is that the right number? On 4 barrel ones they're stamped on, not cast. I would guess that the 2 barrel carbs are too but maybe they're not.

 

[volare 1977]

I thought the number was on a tag on the carb under a screw. If not maybe a stamped number at the base.

 

[Aspen500]

Should have an aluminum tag under one of the bowl cover screws. As volare said, could be stamped in the side of the base plate in some cases.. In either case it'll be a stamped number, not cast in.

 

[Deano]

That's my carb in the picture. Looking a bit closer, it does look like it was stamped.

Is that the right number? On 4 barrel ones they're stamped on, not cast. I would guess that the 2 barrel carbs are too but maybe they're not.

Mike's Carb said that 2681 is the model number for BB carb, so I don't really know.

I thought the number was on a tag on the carb under a screw. If not maybe a stamped number at the base.

No tags at all on the carb anywhere.

 

[volare 1977]

That carb looks like it was maybe a rebuilt unit from the pic. The screws look new.

 

[Deano]

That carb looks like it was maybe a rebuilt unit from the pic. The screws look new.

It's a Tomco rebuild from O'Reilly's.

 

[volare 1977]

Do you have the Tomco part number for that carb from O`Reilly? If so, then see what kit is for that carb.

 

[Mikes5thAve]

That's not a model number on your pic at least not one that means much. It's more like the casting number of the body. The info the company has might be wrong, that happens sometimes when you're dealing with aftermarket parts and numbers that aren't referenced much like that.

 

[Deano]

On the passenger side float bowl, it says- "Mfg by Carter Carburetors, St. Louis, MI #2681

The drivers side of the carb on the flat space above float bowl- 9 6-2373

I just looked at Mike's Carburetors on the "how to ID the correct rebuild kit for your Carter carburetor". It says-

BBD: carburetors do not have identification stampings on them. Comparing parts is the only way to correctly identify the kit.

 

[Hayzoos]

You do have a BBD, but not a factory installed BBD, so you have to reference the carb itself. BBD's were used in a number of applications in a number of different variations. The accelerator pump length is a distinguishing factor.

Way back I had to use two separate kits to get what I needed to rebuild one. More recently I rebuilt a "chinese knockoff" which I was able to identify the correct kit online by pictures and having the disassembled carb on hand to reference. I measured the accelerator pump.

The metering rods and their retaining springs are finicky. Along with getting the accelerator pump and actuating rod and linkage just right when putting the top back on. I have done a few of them, but not enough to be a BBD expert. I usually have to make a few attempts to get the top on just right. Patience is key.

Most new kits are ethanol compatible, but double check and get it in writing. The recent one I did was with an ethanol compatible kit. But, one thing wasn't, the float valve pin assembly. It had a plastic cover on the opposite end of the nitrile pointy end. The plastic was NOT ethanol compatible, swelled, caused the valve to stick, and flood. I removed the plastic cover and found it really did not serve an obvious purpose, the carb is doing much better now with ethanol fuel.

 

[Deano]

I took it apart and was leary of the little springs, tiny allen head bolts, and check balls to really get into the nitty gritty of it.
I did notice that the floats only had about 1/8" travel, so I tried to get it as close to the specified 1/4" from the rim.


I've decided that I'm NOT running any type of ethanol whatsoever, unless it is an absolute emergency. There's a bulk station in the next town, 5 miles away, that carries 85, 87, and 90 octane non ethanol. The 90 is over $5 a gallon, but I don't care as long as the engine likes it.