wolfmandip
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WANTED WTB - battery cables for M-Body
- Thread starter wolfmandip
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You can make the starter ends of battery cable to work with either starter. It just requires to hold your tongue just right (or a few beers), but you can split the insulation at stater a smidge to get wires to attach.
New cables haven't been made for decades and are not easy to find.
The main difference is the large (high amperage) plug-in connector that connects the battery to the rest of the car:
If a person had a way to change that connector out, with like junction box, or something - then a person might have a lot of options available.
That connector makes the positive battery cable a headache for us on trying to find a replacement.
Older pickups might give give you options, as well.
I find myself at a local pull-a-part often - but every FMJ, pickup or van I run across has had wire cutters, scratch that, bolt cutters taken to the battery cables and batteries removed - in a rather harsh method.
BudW
New cables haven't been made for decades and are not easy to find.
The main difference is the large (high amperage) plug-in connector that connects the battery to the rest of the car:
If a person had a way to change that connector out, with like junction box, or something - then a person might have a lot of options available.
That connector makes the positive battery cable a headache for us on trying to find a replacement.
Older pickups might give give you options, as well.
I find myself at a local pull-a-part often - but every FMJ, pickup or van I run across has had wire cutters, scratch that, bolt cutters taken to the battery cables and batteries removed - in a rather harsh method.
BudW
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
They make decent aftermarket ones with the proper white connector.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
I used a positive cable for a b-body(?). Could have been A=body though...........It was a reproduction from Year One. It "looks" stock aside from the high amperage cable Bud mentioned. The starter end fit a mini-starter by splitting the terminals into two. It may have fit intact but IIRC, the mini-starter terminals are a little bit farther apart. The negative cable is from a parts store with the ground wire eyelet soldered and heat shrinked on. At the time, about 15 years ago, I looked all over for an NOS F body cable and came up with zip. There was no aftermarket direct fit either, but as X said, they are made now. Or,,,,,,,,you can but the white connector off the old cable and solder/heat shrink sleeve it. You could even get red heat shrink tubing so it wouldn't be as obvious.
I've got it wired into a flat fuse panel but a simple junction black of some kind would work also. Yes, I know my battery terminals are reversed. lol.
I've got it wired into a flat fuse panel but a simple junction black of some kind would work also. Yes, I know my battery terminals are reversed. lol.
@XfbodyX if you don't mind me asking, who makes repop starter cables for our cars?
I know the negative cables are "close enough" - but I hadn't seen a repop starter cable, with the single wire connector on it before that is white (or black) - that I can recall.
Maybe I hadn't been shaking the trees hard enough . . .
BudW
I know the negative cables are "close enough" - but I hadn't seen a repop starter cable, with the single wire connector on it before that is white (or black) - that I can recall.
Maybe I hadn't been shaking the trees hard enough . . .
BudW
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Standard Motor Products
I did have to fab the secondary wire that goes from the starter up to the relay but $30 was better then $150 or better for nos and in my case the car I put it on didnt matter as long as it worked vs look correct. And the wire feeding the white plug is bigger in diameter not only in insulation but the actual wire is heavier gauge.
Ive had one on the one car for almost three years and although it dont move much its worked as it should every time.
So maybe close enough for some or not.
I did have to fab the secondary wire that goes from the starter up to the relay but $30 was better then $150 or better for nos and in my case the car I put it on didnt matter as long as it worked vs look correct. And the wire feeding the white plug is bigger in diameter not only in insulation but the actual wire is heavier gauge.
Ive had one on the one car for almost three years and although it dont move much its worked as it should every time.
So maybe close enough for some or not.
Aspen500
Well-Known Member
I wonder if Standard discontinued that cable. I checked the Standard catalog and they only show a cable with a cheap crimp butt connector for the high amp wire now.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
They still sell them.
Thank you @XfbodyX (and @Aspen500)!
I looked a year (or two?) ago and didn't find any direct replacements.
Standard Motor Products show two battery cables:
Negative
Part number A19-4U
This one is close but not exact. It is close enough for me and I have one of these on one (or maybe both) cars.
Positive
A60-6C
The above picture is very close to what we need. The yellow crimp connector can be cut off and a correct looking connector can be made so it looks darn close to original (except for the wire colors)
BUT
There is another with same part number A60-6C and this picture (below) is from Standard Motor Product's website, so I'm guessing they changed the part not long ago:
I don't like the idea of crimping the high amperage wire like that. I might remove the white (or black) single wire disconnect wire and solder in a loop connector and use a junction block (or something) on both ends, first.
@wolfmandip if a person "can" get a hold of the top picture (with white or black single connector) - then a person can use a bit of electrical tape and make it look close to original. Below is a reproduction '68-70 B-body 383/440 starter cable:
First of all, depending on the 2-wire starter connector - sometimes there is enough flexibility in the connector to work with the '88 and newer starters. Sometimes you will need to make a small cut on starter end of connector to spread the wires apart. Sometimes, you just gotta have to cut the two wires apart. If you did cut the two wires apart, it is just a bit more work to get the nuts tight. I've done enough mini starter exchanges and it has gone all 3 ways (no modification - but you have to struggle a bit, a small cut or a complete cut).
Now, if you are replacing the bigger of the two wires (ie: using the Standard A60-6C part) - all you will need to do is strip off the tape from old battery cable - then take the brown wire from old wiring. Then tape the brown wire to the new starter cable using the old tape as an example. I marked it with orange circles on the above harness - but that is not correct for FMJ. The brown wire goes to the starter relay, which is on the firewall by the brake booster.
Note: Chrysler used a cloth based tape for harnesses. Most electrical tape you will find is plastic based.
This particular cable is 60 inches long and 6 gauge wire (part of the A60-6C designation).
If I was to create a new cable - which I will be doing as part of my big block conversion, is getting a larger gauge wire for starter, like this one:
That is 60 inches long, get the brown wire for starter solenoid, then run a third wire, like this one:
- to piggyback off of the starter, then tape the three wires up (as shown). Then use some kind of junction block, like this (in place of the white or black single high amperage connector):
Now, if we can find a sizeable number of the top starter cable, then count me in - I want to get a couple. The lower starter cable, I'm not sure I want to work with.
BudW
I looked a year (or two?) ago and didn't find any direct replacements.
Standard Motor Products show two battery cables:
Negative
Part number A19-4U
This one is close but not exact. It is close enough for me and I have one of these on one (or maybe both) cars.
Positive
A60-6C
The above picture is very close to what we need. The yellow crimp connector can be cut off and a correct looking connector can be made so it looks darn close to original (except for the wire colors)
BUT
There is another with same part number A60-6C and this picture (below) is from Standard Motor Product's website, so I'm guessing they changed the part not long ago:
I don't like the idea of crimping the high amperage wire like that. I might remove the white (or black) single wire disconnect wire and solder in a loop connector and use a junction block (or something) on both ends, first.
@wolfmandip if a person "can" get a hold of the top picture (with white or black single connector) - then a person can use a bit of electrical tape and make it look close to original. Below is a reproduction '68-70 B-body 383/440 starter cable:
First of all, depending on the 2-wire starter connector - sometimes there is enough flexibility in the connector to work with the '88 and newer starters. Sometimes you will need to make a small cut on starter end of connector to spread the wires apart. Sometimes, you just gotta have to cut the two wires apart. If you did cut the two wires apart, it is just a bit more work to get the nuts tight. I've done enough mini starter exchanges and it has gone all 3 ways (no modification - but you have to struggle a bit, a small cut or a complete cut).
Now, if you are replacing the bigger of the two wires (ie: using the Standard A60-6C part) - all you will need to do is strip off the tape from old battery cable - then take the brown wire from old wiring. Then tape the brown wire to the new starter cable using the old tape as an example. I marked it with orange circles on the above harness - but that is not correct for FMJ. The brown wire goes to the starter relay, which is on the firewall by the brake booster.
Note: Chrysler used a cloth based tape for harnesses. Most electrical tape you will find is plastic based.
This particular cable is 60 inches long and 6 gauge wire (part of the A60-6C designation).
If I was to create a new cable - which I will be doing as part of my big block conversion, is getting a larger gauge wire for starter, like this one:
That is 60 inches long, get the brown wire for starter solenoid, then run a third wire, like this one:
- to piggyback off of the starter, then tape the three wires up (as shown). Then use some kind of junction block, like this (in place of the white or black single high amperage connector):
Now, if we can find a sizeable number of the top starter cable, then count me in - I want to get a couple. The lower starter cable, I'm not sure I want to work with.
BudW
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Dam, no happy whistling flippin emoji??? What the heck. Ummmm Ebay.
Just ask the seller if the pic is the actual part.
Just ask the seller if the pic is the actual part.
Last edited:
wolfmandip
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Thank you all for the info! I didn't realize someone was at least making something close. That A60-6C has the 3-leads, which is a great start. Below is a pic of what I have. That connector could be transferred, and originally the one lead would have been molded into the terminal receiver. I know finding a NOS one will be difficult, but you gotta start somewhere! thanks again!
The old cable should fit a mini-starter just fine. All you need to do is remove that funny adapter on it before install.
If you need new terminal ends on the battery I use these:
Doesn't look anything remotely factory though...
If you need new terminal ends on the battery I use these:
Doesn't look anything remotely factory though...
wolfmandip
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So here's the non-helpful response from the EBay seller on the A60-6C cable:
Everything we know about this part is included in the eBay listing. Please be sure to mouse over the LEFT COLUMN of the Compatibility Chart in the eBay listing. (This chart may not show well on mobile browsers.) Additional information, if available, can be found on the part manufacturers website.
Everything we know about this part is included in the eBay listing. Please be sure to mouse over the LEFT COLUMN of the Compatibility Chart in the eBay listing. (This chart may not show well on mobile browsers.) Additional information, if available, can be found on the part manufacturers website.
IMPORTANT!!!
1) IMAGES are Stock Images from the manufacturers catalog and NOT actual pictures of the part you will receive.
2) PACK QUANTITY pictured may or may not be the quantity sold per order. Check the Title and Item Specifics.
3) FIT and FINISH may vary from the listing image. If you need a restoration match, this part may not work.
4) 100% of our parts are drop shipped. We have No Way to PHYSICALLY INSPECT the parts at any time.
5) We are NOT MECHANICS and are unable to assist with mechanical advice or trouble shooting.
We wish you all the best with your automotive project.
XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
Sad, but not a shocker at all . Where are you located roughly, I could probably give one up.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
This is where compatible vs identical will kick in. See if local parts store has it or can bring it in. At least then you know.
Prior to my ownership someone replaced my battery ends and put eye ends on the cables so the bolts go thru them instead of the bare wires being crushed in the clamp. Doesn't look stock but at least it looks ok and the end is easy to replace when it starts looking bad or breaks.
Prior to my ownership someone replaced my battery ends and put eye ends on the cables so the bolts go thru them instead of the bare wires being crushed in the clamp. Doesn't look stock but at least it looks ok and the end is easy to replace when it starts looking bad or breaks.
wolfmandip
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XfbodyX, I really appreciate the offer, but I'll do some additional searching and see what I can come up with. Season's essentially over in Western NY, anyhow.
Thanks again everyone, appreciate all the help on this thread!!
Thanks again everyone, appreciate all the help on this thread!!
Trying to find battery cables for older diesel pickups (like my '97 Dodge 3/4 ton) is almost impossible (and have been for many years).
The best thing to do for it is to make your own cables.
Now before I begin, I will say that these battery terminals - I wouldn't wish on your enemies:
They might work for a day or two (maybe) but will cause you grief and lots of heartache. There is just no way to keep the copper cable from corroding. These might be the worlds worst (automotive) money waster known to man.
With that said, something that has become more popular recently is military battery terminals:
A nice touch is you can see the N and the P clearly. These are hefty as well
The copper cables are soldered into a lug fitting and attached at either end (or both ends) of the bolt - which is a standard bolt (but the ones shown have a square end).
Just remove cable insulation to clear the lug ends, insert solder pellet into the lug. Heat with a propane torch for a few moments. Insert cable while heating until insulation touches the lug - and call it a day. It is best to use heat-shrink tubing (like shown two pictures up) to protect it for many years to come.
They even make several different battery terminal covers for the military battery terminals for even more protection.
For my big blocks, I want a bit larger cable size going to the starter. For my Fifth Ave, it will have a trunk mounted battery - so the battery cable is kinda a mute point. It is best not to install a trunk mounted battery in my wagon.
Sense I can't find a good replacement cable that looks original, I will just make my own.
For the wagon, I will take an old battery cable, strip off the tape (after wire is marked as to tape beginning/end points).
Trim off the small wire from the cable. Make a new cable for the large wire - using soldered on lugs as shown, above.
Melt down or otherwise extract as much of the wire I can for the high amperage wire going to the white (or black) single connector - trying to keep as much copper wire as I can.
Solder on a lug onto it and attach both lugs to a military type terminal with a cover to hide it (like shown a couple photos up).
I might do the same for the negative battery cable - for (in my opinion) that wire is too small as well - especially if packing an 100+ amp alternator (which I will be).
It won't look original - but as close as I can get and still be fully functional and last a long time trouble free.
BudW
The best thing to do for it is to make your own cables.
Now before I begin, I will say that these battery terminals - I wouldn't wish on your enemies:
They might work for a day or two (maybe) but will cause you grief and lots of heartache. There is just no way to keep the copper cable from corroding. These might be the worlds worst (automotive) money waster known to man.
With that said, something that has become more popular recently is military battery terminals:
A nice touch is you can see the N and the P clearly. These are hefty as well
The copper cables are soldered into a lug fitting and attached at either end (or both ends) of the bolt - which is a standard bolt (but the ones shown have a square end).
Just remove cable insulation to clear the lug ends, insert solder pellet into the lug. Heat with a propane torch for a few moments. Insert cable while heating until insulation touches the lug - and call it a day. It is best to use heat-shrink tubing (like shown two pictures up) to protect it for many years to come.
They even make several different battery terminal covers for the military battery terminals for even more protection.
For my big blocks, I want a bit larger cable size going to the starter. For my Fifth Ave, it will have a trunk mounted battery - so the battery cable is kinda a mute point. It is best not to install a trunk mounted battery in my wagon.
Sense I can't find a good replacement cable that looks original, I will just make my own.
For the wagon, I will take an old battery cable, strip off the tape (after wire is marked as to tape beginning/end points).
Trim off the small wire from the cable. Make a new cable for the large wire - using soldered on lugs as shown, above.
Melt down or otherwise extract as much of the wire I can for the high amperage wire going to the white (or black) single connector - trying to keep as much copper wire as I can.
Solder on a lug onto it and attach both lugs to a military type terminal with a cover to hide it (like shown a couple photos up).
I might do the same for the negative battery cable - for (in my opinion) that wire is too small as well - especially if packing an 100+ amp alternator (which I will be).
It won't look original - but as close as I can get and still be fully functional and last a long time trouble free.
BudW
Justwondering
Well-Known Member
BudW ..
Why do you want your battery in the trunk?
JW
Why do you want your battery in the trunk?
JW
kkritsilas
Well-Known Member
Create more space in the engine compartment, and to help weight distribution. Weight distribution is helped by moving 40-50 lbs off the very front of the car, and even more by adding the same weight to the back of the car. Helps even more if the battery is on the passenger side of the trunk, helping balance out the weight of the driver. Sometimes, it can very slightly help traction, too.
Exactly as mentioned above.
Also, a side benefit, it makes getting to a "big block" oil filter so much easier. I can't find any pictures, right off, but they are quite a thing to reach.
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