Don’t take the entire transmission out. Just remove the tailhousing.
If you jack up the rear of vehicle (and not level), then you will experience very little (if any) fluid loss. If car is to be jacked up level, then you will need to drain out about 2 quarts (2 L) of fluid, first. If your catch can is clean – then you should be able to reuse the fluid (if drained).
For Extension housing removal/replacement, the only special tool is snap ring pliers and possibly an impact screwdriver to loosen the Philips head screws that hold the plate to the snap ring. Regular snap ring pliers can be used. Use a large pair and make sure it expands when handles are squeezed. In most cases, the impact screwdriver is not needed – except in units that hasn’t been serviced in a long time. Your experience may differ.
An impact screwdriver looks like (if needed):
Below are procedures to remove the extension housing in car.
This is from my ’77 FSM – so some minor differences – but basically will be the same.
The speedometer adaptor will need to come out (you can leave it attached to the cable, if wanted).
Once out, I have a feeling the bushing area will be out of round. If so, take the housing to a vice or press and gently apply pressure the other direction and it will straighten out (at bushing area). Apply too much pressure and think of what happens when you squeeze an empty aluminum can.
After you release pressure, you can use your new yoke to test fit.
BudW