SOLD M body parts - Chicago

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Camtron

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I have a few parts off my 89 M body available:
Chrome Wheel well trim - not in the best shape, previous owner ran self tapping screws through them. Can label what wheel well each one goes to before shipping. - SOLD

Rocker panel chrome trim pieces - couple small dents (one on each of the long middle pieces) nothing that can’t be fixed with a dead blow hammer and rubber mat. Will ship for $70

Rear bumper, Nerf strip - clips are all intact, minor scratches, looks really good over all. Will ship for $40

Factory valve covers - Buyer pays shipping

Factory 2v intake with carb - Buyer pays shipping

Factory air cleaner (lean burn computer removed) - buyer pays shipping

I also have 4, 15x7 factory steel wheels available that are in great condition with usable rubber. $50 each or $175 for all 4, buyer pays shipping.

Thanks!

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BudW

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Without cruise, the cable you want is the Pioneer CA3030 or the ATP Y891 – which fits most rear wheel cars made (without cruise) from ’76-89 (except for the early F/M’s)
It will be ~80-81 inch long (depending on which way you measure it) with these two ends on it:
ATP Y-891.png


Before removal, document the direction cable is routed under hood and under car. A couple of pictures does wonders later on.

To replace it, you will need to reach under dash and squeeze the white clip and pull forward a short distance. Get a small flat screwdriver and poke the firewall grommet towards the engine and push cable forward some. Open hood and pull cable forward until white clip has cleared the firewall.

Jack up the rear of car some distance (use of a drive on rack is also good) and use jack stands!

If you jack the rear of car, you will experience very little loss of ATF. If car is flat, some ATF will come out – so have a catch can handy.

Remove the ½” head bolt from the C Clamp. Record what number the clamp is at (most speedometer adaptors can go on 2 or 3 different ways). Get a pair of channellocks plyers grab hold of the adaptor C-clamp and lightly twist the plastic adaptor (at transmission) to loosen it. It will only twist a smidge in one direction and more the other. Grab a hold of the cable and gently rock the adaptor out of the transmission. Use of force can/WILL damage things.

Once the adaptor is out, there will be two long clips. One that holds the speedometer gear in place and the other that holds the cable in place. I can’t remember, but I think only one clip needs to be pulled out. Don’t lose the clip – they are hard to find and easy to lose. The cable should pull out from adaptor.

I highly recommend replacing the adaptor housing outer O-ring – which is an odd size item (1-9/16” ID). Rockauto.com and most part stores don’t carry it (unless you purchase a transmission gasket set). Dodge 904 TF6 TorqueFlite 6 Transmission Speedometer Seal & Oring kit Mopar | eBay
The Dodge part number is 6031370 which has superseded to 6025752, which superseded to 6035709 (or 6035709aa) which is $7.25 (US) as of December 23, 2019.
The inner seal will not be needed from the eBay side (above) and your new cable will come with a new inner O-ring).

Use plenty of ATF to lube both O-rings before installing!

Avoid taking the center core out of its housing. It uses graphite for lubricant (a dry lube) - which is hard to get off your fingers/clothing.

It should take about 1 hour or so to complete.


Note: if you plan on any rear differential changes or gear ratio changes soon, the I recommend something completely different than What I described (above). Tell me if you are considering a different diff or ratio change so I gave give you different instructions.
BudW
 

kingoftooland

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Indeed I will atm I am yawing my cell phone because I am planning in the spring of doing all aftermarket gauges I seen a real nice mopar one for $300 on summit
 
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