Alibaba new car engines

BudW

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It doesn’t surprise me seeing Chinese repops of these (or similar items).

The biggie for me is cost vs. quality. It says “High Quality” in the ad, but typically “Chinese made and High Quality” are two completely different things.
Now “Japanese made and High Quality” (or substitute several other country’s name for Japan) and you might have something.

Back in the mid ‘80’s, Hyundai was making their breakout car and the powertrain (engine and transmission) they used was licensed from Mitsubishi. The Hyundai version was called Excel and rebadged Mitsubishi version was the Precis.

The 1.5L 4-cylinder engine made by Hyundai (South Korea) was the same that Mitsubishi (Japan) used in their Mirage. If you had engine parts laid side by side, it was a night and day difference in both casting and in the machine work. The parts would all interchange, but most Mitsubishi dealers would use the Japanize versions for replacements (it was that much of a difference).

I think it was the late ‘90’s Hyundai made a huge change in their manufacturing with a swing towards making quality parts – and shortly after that time they went to a 10 year/100k mile powertrain warranty. The early parts (‘80’s and early ‘90’s) were a few levels above, um, well crap.
The newer stuff is much better (but still not something I would put under my hood).

Getting back to my point, I would suspect the Chinese parts mentioned are probably a few steps below the cheaper made ‘80’s made Hyundai parts which would place it about equal (= to) horse excrement (I suspect) – in my opinion only.
BudW
 

kkritsilas

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in Canada, the first car Hyundai sold was called the Pony. It made a Yugo look like it was made during the good days at Mrcedes. Most didn't make it past 3 years, from body rust to mechanical issues.
 

Aspen500

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Made in China along with a price that's unreasonably low, I'd stay away from them (JMO).
I remember those Hyundai's from the 1980's. Calling them POS's is an insult to POS's. You're right, about 3 years was it, maybe 4 if you don't live in a rust state. They seem to have improved just a tad since then! There are always exceptions, I still see a couple 1980's Hyundai's on the road and they look to be in good condition. Gee, they didn't copy Mercedes styling did they? LOL Of course, they still seem to copy, Kia also. Not sure what the model is but, there's a current model Kia that looks almost exactly like a Taurus.
 

Aspen500

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I did know that. Funny thing is, Hyundai and Kia can't be in the same dealership. They can be side by side but have to be separated. Odd. Here, Hyundai and Kia used to be in the same building with a shared service area. Now Hyundai is in Rib Mt with Audi and VW, across the street from Chevy, about a mile from my house and Kia is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay up on the north side about 8 miles away, next to Ford/Lincoln, Subaru and Nissan dealerships. All of them are owned by the same ass-h,,,,,,,,,,I mean guy. There's also a Toyota dealer in the same area. I worked at the Audi dealer for 5 years until 2012 when I GTFO because I couldn't stand to work there and dreaded every weekday. It was horrible, that;s why I call the guy that owns it an a-h, because that's what he is. Going off on a tangent here but, when I heard the answer to why a 40,000 mile service on an Audi was twice what it was on a VW, that was it. The answer to why they charge Audi customers more? "Because we can". Nope, don't want to have anything to do with a place like that, I'm outta here!
 

BudW

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I can’t confirm or deny the ownership of Kia/Hyundai, but both companies do have same the warranty length. I was looking at an oil pump on one (or the other) the other day and cast into the part was “Kia” as well as “Hyundai”, so there might be some/all/no truth to the ownership part.

What gets me is the people who purchase either a Kia or Hyundai for the 10/100 powertrain warranty then trades off the car in 3-4 years – which means the second owner of car gets a reduced powertrain warranty of 5/60.
BudW
 

78VOLAREWAG

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I can’t confirm or deny the ownership of Kia/Hyundai, but both companies do have same the warranty length. I was looking at an oil pump on one (or the other) the other day and cast into the part was “Kia” as well as “Hyundai”, so there might be some/all/no truth to the ownership part.

What gets me is the people who purchase either a Kia or Hyundai for the 10/100 powertrain warranty then trades off the car in 3-4 years – which means the second owner of car gets a reduced powertrain warranty of 5/60.
BudW
The KIA parts warehouse will backorder a part from Korea even though they have the same exact part # in a Hyundai box, in the same warehouse.
 

Aspen500

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I always use the Ford/Mazda thing as an example. Don't recall exact years but, it was around 2005 at the Ford dealer and a 2000 Mazda 6 came in with a fried trans. From Mazda a reman trans was at least a week away and $3,400. The Ford Contour has the EXACT same transmission. Contour and Mazda 6 were the same car with different sheetmetal, just like Ranger and B2300 (or B3000,,,, whatever the heck the number was). The ONLY difference was the tag said Ford and had a Ford p/n instead of Mazda, was $2,200 ($1,200 less) and,,,,,,,,,,,it was there before we got to work the next morning. WTF is a term that comes to mind!
 

SixBanger

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I am not into to do big stuff on this car. For its age and price it is okay. And opening the hood, I was surprised there is a lot of space to do simple maintenance. I almost smile of the easiness to replace timing assembly(just for case). Same for other stuff around the car.
Even the car of my mom, '15 mirage (6th gen) is also easy to work on to do the simple maintenance for owners or minor fixes in the future.

Only still one strange thing with the 3A90 engine... On some days it has long starting needed or even no start without pushing pedal to the floor (evaporation of the engine?). I have checked some forums. And they said some issues with the EGR system and possibly pollution of the inlet valves or something. On the one hand she drives a lot of short items, to the supermarket and then to the hairdresser etc etc.
However, according to me, the car went back to the dealer for a recall campaign last year. They had updated a few things in the ecu. But sometimes the start is still faltering.

My current driving bucket, 5th gen Mirage here called as Colt, is equipped with the 4G13 engine or 1.3 12v. Other option of that day was 1.6. I still surprised it has enough torque even on low rpm and okay horses out of that swept volume. Buyed the car basically of running cost and steering shifting behavior.
 
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SixBanger

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Here most new and private owned cars are small VOG French and fewer Japanese/korea made.
And Kia gained a quit market share here in comparison with the more expensive Hyundai.

Are the difference between Chrysler/Dodge/Desoto/Plymouth so much different back than while compare with the modern Audi/VW working class cars?
 

BudW

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Back in the late ‘70’s Dodge offered a rebadged Mitsubishi as the Colt. In the ‘80’s There was a turbocharged Dodge Colt that had the nickname pocket rocket. After that time, I have sorta ignored the Dodge imports (Mitsubishi) and have lost track of a lot of things (except for the Mitsubishi 3.0L V6 that Chrysler used for a while).

On some days it has long starting needed or even no start without pushing pedal to the floor
There needs to be three things for combustion to take place: Fuel, Air and Compression – and in the correct order (timing). If one of those is not in time or lacking, then combustion will not take place. A malfunctioning EGR system can cause that as well as low fuel pressure. Actually, a lot of things could be in play here.
Many car computers will stop fuel flow if it detects throttle being pushed when car is cranking but not started. I would check the fuel pressure first.


Unrelated, I have replaced many timing belts in my lifetime. If I was going to purchase a car with a timing belt, I want it to be one that can be changed on the easier side.
That said, with most car companies using variable valve timing, most everyone has gone back to timing chains which is not an easy system to work with.

I’ve even considered using a timing belt on my big block – but the costs are a bit steep.
Jesel 440.jpg


Are the difference between Chrysler/Dodge/Desoto/Plymouth so much different back than while compare with the modern Audi/VW working class cars?
I’m not sure what you are saying/asking here.

Chrysler teamed up with VW back in the mid ‘70’s to design the Dodge L-body (Omni/Horizon) which looks a lot like what VW did with their front wheel drive cars in the same time frame. For what I’m told, the VW design is from that team meeting. Chrysler even used VW engines for a while until they got their corporate 2.2L 4-cylinder engine into production.

The LX design cars (Charger/Challenger/300) were based off the Mercedes E-class cars when Mercedes and Chrysler were together. Some things, like lower control arms and computers will interchange between the two cars.
BudW
 

Aspen500

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Having to push the throttle to the floor for the car to start sounds like it's flooding. I assume its fuel injected? On EFI pushing the pedal to the floor when cranking is deflood mode, the fuel injectors are shut off until it starts. Once it senses ignition by the crankshaft position sensor signal, the injectors are turned back on. That's a simplified explanation but it's pretty much how it works. Check the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail (if it has one that is). Pull the vacuum hose off and check for the presence of fuel, there should be none. I only mention it because that's a common problem on GM products from the late '90's and 2000's. The diaphragm ruptures. Just something to check on anyways.

Many moons ago (1984 to be exact), I bought a '76 Dodge Colt 2 door. Yeah I know but, I needed a car NOW and it was $100 so............ Rust free except the strut towers and the LF fender was smashed. Interior was literally MINT, looked brand new yet. Anyways, I found the 1.6L and 3 speed auto trans (looked like a scaled down TF) added up to "relaxed" acceleration and,,,,,,,,less heat in the winter than my buddy's '71 Super Beetle and almost as slow. On the plus side, it got crappy mileage for the size of the car. Lucky if it cracked 22 mpg on the highway at the then federal speed limit of 55 mph, but at 55 it was turning 4,000 rpm so........... Still, it always started and ran fine. One day I hit a bump and watched the hood bend. One strut tower was not attached to the car anymore and the other one wasn't much better. At that time I had no way of fixing it. I was going to have it hauled away to the scrap yard and some guy stopped and ask about it. I told him exactly what the problem was and he says "would you take $100 for it?' Gee, let me think about that for a second,,,,,,YES, lol. Pay $100, drive it a year, sell it for $100, works for me. No idea what he did with the thing, never saw it again.

Put a black stripe down the side (and smash the left fender) and it looked exactly like this:
dodge-colt-1976-11.jpg



Hmmm, taillights on those Colts look familiar somehow ;)
th?id=OIP.jpg
 

SixBanger

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Many thanks guys for input. Yes it has mpfi. I would see if I can check the fuel regulator and fuel pressure.
My dad talked about the possible fuel quality. But it's a fairly modern car.

I’m not sure what you are saying/asking here.

Read it again, yes indeed not really clear question.
I tried to ask if the models differ so greatly between the Chrysler group back in the 70s compared to modern VW and Audi cars today. Personalty I don't see the benefit to buy a new lets say a Audi A1 in comparison with a VW golf. Only the shell (body) different and other more advanced options. Maybe the engine fitted in the Audi give some more horses by other tuning.
 

SixBanger

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Bud, I like the timing belt option for a RB or even a small block.
But what about a industry standard stuff. Locking assemblies for the camshaft, good for hundreds amount of transmissible torque. Adding a
Taper bushes for the crank connected to a HTD 8 or even 14 belt pulley. With are quite variable.
Maybe big thing is to modified the crank and camshaft journals.

upload_2020-1-23_21-39-6.png

upload_2020-1-23_21-42-47.png

upload_2020-1-23_21-43-54.png
 

BudW

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The problem with the Jesel drive belt setup is for Chrysler big blocks – it is $1,400 (US) (1,300 EUR). Then for drag racing, they recommend changing the drive belt after 250 runs (about 100 km) or every year (whichever comes first).
I just don’t see the cost vs. advantages being right for me for a daily driver (times 2).

Now, if I could get 60k miles (90k km) or so out of a drive belt and if I could get the setups (even used) for say 3-400$ (US) then I might have to find a pair (one for the wagon and other for Fifth Ave).
BudW
 
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