Aftermarket aluminum radiator

It's been about 8 months later since radiator #5 went in and we have another failure. This is the 2nd champion radiator and I feel lost,confused,angry,disappointed and defeated at this situation. I put small rubber bushing under all the 4 mounting surfaces to the radiator/core support, I guess this wasn't enough to give the radiator some flexibility?
I'm not sure as to where to go from here, onto my 6th radiator in 6+ years..
 
What coolant do you use? Is it for Aluminium and and cast iron? Maybe not fully flushed when changed coolant?
 
Where are they breaking at? Manufacturing quality is way down these days from metal quality to welders in shops…may just be getting poor QC assemblies.
I’d try to find something that specifically says it’s a tig-welded radiator. A lot of shops have implemented aluminum spool guns and laser welders because anyone can weld aluminum with them and they’re cheaper to staff and buy consumables…but they don’t make for as strong a weld as tig welding. That radiator AMC diplomat posted seems to fit the bill.
 
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Camtron said:
Where are they breaking at? Manufacturing quality is way down these days from metal quality to welders in shops…may just be getting poor QC assemblies.
I’d try to find something that specifically says it’s a tig-welded radiator. A lot of shops have implemented aluminum spool guns and laser welders because anyone can weld aluminum with them and they’re cheaper to staff and buy consumables…but they don’t make for as strong a weld as tig welding. That radiator AMC diplomat posted seems to fit the bill.
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I posted it before too. I'd buy one but radiators keep finding their way into my life. At this point I should start doing swap meets to sell them off.
 
Regular 50/50 mix green coolant as far as I know and all drained each time. I could see corrosion or something over a long period of time being an issue.
The longest I had one of these radiators in for was about a 1-1 1/12 year or so before failure.

69- said:
What coolant do you use? Is it for Aluminium and and cast iron? Maybe not fully flushed when changed coolant?
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Camtron said:
Where are they breaking at? Manufacturing quality is way down these days from metal quality to welders in shops…may just be getting poor QC assemblies.
I’d try to find something that specifically says it’s a tig-welded radiator. A lot of shops have implemented aluminum spool guns and laser welders because anyone can weld aluminum with them and they’re cheaper to staff and buy consumables…but they don’t make for as strong a weld as tig welding. That radiator AMC diplomat posted seems to fit the bill.
Click to expand...
They're leaking where the core/fins meet the tank at at different locations, two bottom, two towards top and one on the side. I've went through three different companies now; Champion,Coldcase and Frostbite.

rad01 2.jpg


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88_AHB said:
They're leaking where the core/fins meet the tank at at different locations, two bottom, two towards top and one on the side. I've went through three different companies now; Champion,Coldcase and Frostbite.

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It’s apparently common with champion for the last 15+ years, not sure about the others.
With aluminum electrolysis can play a big role and issue too. This could very well be a grounding issue or even a PH issue with the coolant itself causing the gaskets between the fins and tank to dissolve. Maybe worth getting some coolant test trips to verify coolant PH, and adding a ground from the negative battery terminal for a little extra insurance with the next radiator. Has the cooling system had a real flush? Crud in the block from 3-4 decades can ramp up the electrolysis effects with a new aluminum radiator.
Man, I wonder how much pressure is building up in your system and if the cap is venting before it’s popping the gaskets.
 
Camtron said:
It’s apparently common with champion for the last 15+ years, not sure about the others.
With aluminum electrolysis can play a big role and issue too. This could very well be a grounding issue or even a PH issue with the coolant itself causing the gaskets between the fins and tank to dissolve. Maybe worth getting some coolant test trips to verify coolant PH, and adding a ground from the negative battery terminal for a little extra insurance with the next radiator. Has the cooling system had a real flush? Crud in the block from 3-4 decades can ramp up the electrolysis effects with a new aluminum radiator.
Man, I wonder how much pressure is building up in your system and if the cap is venting before it’s popping the gaskets.
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Just to clarify the two above pictures, picture on top was from the last radiator and bottom picture from the current one. I thought of the flush theory of crud if I didn't have this 318 completely rebuilt about 5 years ago and have maybe put 10k miles on it. Didn't think to test the PH levels of the coolant, it would be worthwhile.
On all of these radiators I used their supplied caps. Could there be a electrolysis issue with so few of miles and age? I have grounds going from the cylinder head to body and one to the K frame.
 
88_AHB said:
Could there be an electrolysis issue with so few of miles and age? I have grounds going from the cylinder head to body and one to the K frame.
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100% could. If you have a multimeter handy check for voltage between the coolant itself and the negative post on your battery, anything over .02v is a problem.
 
Dude, this sucks. Dad and I are still running our old Champion radiators without issue. I even had mine modified at a shop to move the inlet to other side for a big block when I swapped. A lot can happen with QC in a decade though.

Did you use distilled water or tap water?
 
That sucks. The last new ones I tried to get were all plastic tank ones which I don't like when you can see them so easily, the last new one I actually bought didn't even fit right. So I was hoping these aluminum ones were at least one option. I've been having mine recored but I think there's only one local place now that does that.
 
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