Both of my 318 2-bbl cars have a “running out of gas under WOT (Wide Open Throttle)” conditions.
It happens at high RPM (4k RPM or so).
What happens is the power curve is fine (considering they are stock 318 2-bbl’s) then all of a sudden the engine falls flat on its face. If I wait a moment
OR let off of the gas, it power picks right back up like beforehand.
My ’77 wagon (with 40k miles) – I suspect the problem is float level being set too low. That car doesn’t do it often but I can tell (one out of every 30 wide-ranging WOT exercises, or so).
My ’86 5th Ave – There are one of three possibility’s with it. Float level, in-tank sock – or what I most suspect most is the fuel hoses are cracked and sucking air (the hose between fuel tank and main line (rear of car) and/or the hidden fuel hose just behind the R/F tire). This car does it once every three WOT exercises, or so.
This car has sat in the sun most of its life and other rubber hoses were cracked significantly. Sometimes parking at an angle, it takes forever to get engine started (well, OK, it starts, runs for a moment then dies – then takes forever to restart).
FMJ cars (I don’t know if J’s have the hidden fuel hose, or not) has rubber hoses in 4 locations/areas.
- The fuel filter (3 short sections of hose, which generally come with filter – always change hoses with a filter change).
- Between frame rail and fuel pump
- The hidden hose behind R/F tire
- By fuel tank.
The hidden hose is talked more on thread
318 down
Post # 31
I would recommend a fuel volume test before going through the effort of changing out a fuel pump.
Watch for air pockets when performing the test (if possible).
Note: a cracked and leaking fuel hose is not good for fuel mileage. If it can leak air, then it can also leak fuel. A safety hazard, as well.
I doubt I have a problem with fuel sock or hoses on my wagon because of (low) mileage and fact car has been kept in a garage most of its life. most hoses on it are great for being 40 years old. I could be wrong, though.
BudW