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I wish this was a couple of years ago...I had a 'still in the box' Headman tubes here...listed on both Kijiji and eBag for months...NO interest...practically had to beg for someone to pick 'em up...eventually they sold for $150 CAD if I remember correctly (LOL)!

I don't know what a "8.8" rear is (did you me 8-3/4? or are you talking Ford?), but even the gearing itself has to be matched up with the remaining powertrain/drivetrain combination. So what shape is the ride in? What shape is the motor/powertrain in? Love the idea of 'T-tops', but I'm...

Can't say I have...but I will say this: a picture is worth a thousand words...right? See that coolant pooling on top of the intake manifold and head mating space? Yup, you can tell it's weeping it's way into that area. Alright...so that's an interesting situation. I assume you torqued the...

Given the curve in the rear body line/fender area I suspect this is either '78 or '79...well, bumper is a more immediate give-away, but that can be changed much more easily!

Wow...you don't say...b/c you know, I would never accept a used Hooker in a poor-shape!

I have used three separate header products: 1) Headman (78050) - that's basically your bare essentials 2) Hooker (5901) - these I still have, overall better build, thicker flanges and pipes I believe, I got these ceramic coated 3) TTI (340BEW2-17835C0) - that's my W2 stuff, the only one that...

Thanks man...but seriously, I had no idea just how much MORE heat the TTI 1-7/8" tubes were actually going to put out...HOT indeed!

LOL...yeah, I get the "weird" part of it...but it works for me. To answer your question: NOPE, absolutely no rubbing, no touching, none of that stuff. Consider that I am also running 5-leaf spring packs and the massive MP 1" rear sway bar. But I will say this: that's a 3" diameter pipe, and...

Are you dead set on having a factory-like setup? (that being the tailpipes coming out under the bumper) If not 100% sure, consider the alternative, that being: dump the pipes out right behind the rear wheels. You can enjoy the "engine music" a lot more (right behind your ears with the windows...

here is a chart out of MP Chassis book, the answers you are looking for I believe.

I'm thinking factory was all 5/16"...no? Anyways, if you go bigger that's no problem (nor value add) providing that you match up correctly at both ends, meaning: good hose clamp and carb fitting match. But to avoid all that trouble I'd rather run with a factory size.

Ahhh...got it now...at first I couldn't tell if that 1st pic was just a "side by side" compare of the fitting...but the genius in-tank pics shows this very well! Nice sir...thank you for sharing this. BTW: given the stamped ribs in tank body, did you have to 'massage' that area for the Holley...

Interesting experience, quite the opposite of what I've seen with just about all of our family cars as well as my Mopar. From a performance/HD usage perspective I suppose the Coupe has been the 'poster child', multiple fast stops at the end of the 1/4 mile haven't seem to have put any warping...

FYI - the news sucks, as at least for me Raybestos was traditionally to "go to" brand for premium stuff.

I thought you'd never ask!!! (LOL) 1980 and 1981 Parts Books scans attached EDIT ==== What an absolutely atrocious/abysmal rendering of the uploaded images you guys...yikes...I can't read any of it...PoS forum functionality, seriously...in today's age there is literally ZERO reason to...

Same thing applies...the F/M/J-body measurements are the same.

So @Gunnar Schroder, are you clear on what FirmFeel is suggesting to you? Like @Mikes5thAve explained, the aftermarket options typically require you to remove the ISO setup and replace that with a B-body style configuration. The 'ISO-Delete Kit' has the TOP plate (the square with 5 holes)...

So there are a few points here that are very interesting to me: 1) M/E Wagner PCV - I have had this for a few years now and what a huge tuning aid this was...hopefully yours has been a great experience as well, how do you set yours up? 2) Spectra Premium gas tank w/ in-tank electric pump - oh...

I started in a somewhat spoiled of a point, that being: a fairly tight OEM power steering box (that was actually a FirmFeel unit), barely any sloop in the 12-o'clock position, the previously mentioned power steering pump pressure drop trick and basically all NEW components all around (part of...

My poor excuse for why it has remained that clean is the simple fact that I just don't get to drive it all that much during the rather brief cruising weather we get here. The Coupe is not a fire & forget ride anymore, not to say at all that it requires a certificate of some sorts to drive it...

Well, I was spoiled by the fact that I had the old engine pulled out and was installing my new W2 408 stroker build...so the engine bay was completely empty: no headers, no plumbing in the way, etc. So for what it's worth I've attached a few photos of what I started off with (header-driver.jpg)...

That's a lot of great work there!!! Nice outcome too...very cool.

Late to the party you guys - sorry, Brazil business trip, left last Saturday, came back this morning, multiple cancellations and a missed flight - but @69- hopefully that's far removed from your future experience...at least I'll keep my fingers crossed for you! Alright...so yeah, local stuff...

I have the setup that @Duke5A referenced above. It was a bit of a peculiar installation in my case b/c I decided to keep my power steering pump with the factory O-ring setup (came to find out in the process that there were multiple options out there), but to Mark's earlier point, if you are...

This here is a great point!! Look, in terms of that "sucker for punishment" perspective, the approach to making car changes that I have taken has always been about improving the factory setups, as opposed to flat-out replacing with a different technology. Maybe that last part "different...