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Yes that's correct

Hey all, I have a "civilian" 85-mph speedometer and fuel gauge cluster out of an '88 5th Ave that was converted to the 125 mph cop speedo. Looking for $40+shipping? Located in Fort Collins, CO 80524.

Bump, four months later these are still for sale; still have both working computers and the original air cleaner assembly.

Hughes Engines makes a Magnum spring retainer and valve springs that are good up to at least .550" lift. I used them in my engine, measured out around .560" I think from bottom of retainer to top of valve stem seal. My heads weren't machined either.

Oops my mistake Bud... would be useful to note the location lol. Alright I'll set asking price at $30 for either of the units alone, or $50 for the entire air cleaner assembly with the computer, plus shipping (depends on your location). The air cleaner also has the original cold air and hot...

Oookay then... these work?

Hey all, so I recently sold my '88 Fifth Avenue which I had converted to 4-bbl and lean-burn delete. I now have the computer that was on the car when I did the conversion and still worked perfectly when pulled, I also have a spare computer that was given to me by the previous owner as a...

I think I know the ones you're talking about, always saw them in the gasket sets I got for small blocks but could never figure out what the heck they were for. I guess I'll hang onto them!

Well well, it's been relisted for $3,199... LOL Chrysler 318 engine LONG BLOCK With Accessories | eBay

Price lowered to $1800

Man it's just one thing after another for you! You're definitely a trooper to be putting up with all this BS living where parts and service for these cars isn't all over the place. Keep up the great detective work!

I've found the correct-size u-joint u-bolts in the "Miscellaneous/HELP" section of the auto parts store, not sure how it is in NZ but there aren't that many different sizes of u-joints to begin with. The u-bolts are stronger because they act a bit like a spring as you tighten down the holding...

Well the time has come to sell my 1988 Fifth Avenue with the original 318, 130,000 miles. Rust-free (except for minor surface rust on trunk lid) car which spent most of its life in Las Vegas since new and was well taken care of. Has all the luxury power features that came standard on these cars...

Here's my idea: Get a nice-running 5.2L Magnum on Craigslist, they go for $100-200 around here and check the short block for cylinder bore wear, usually there will be little to none if it was at least half taken-care-of. Have the heads checked for cracks between valve seats, if no cracks do a...

The main reason for switching to SAE net HP was to standardize the industry ratings so car companies couldn't just list whatever HP they felt like which had been done previously with gross ratings. Like Aspen500 said there is no conversion factor because A) different accessories/fans drew...

You may be thinking of Marvel Mystery Oil, that stuff has 1% lard in it I believe, written right on the bottle! I agree WD-40 can lubricate somewhat but it evaporates pretty fast. When I was a kid I always wondered why if I sprayed WD-40 on my bicycle chain it would stay nice and smooth for a...

Hey guys, sorry to bring up an old thread but I found a solution to the problem after reading the WD-40 suggestion... I had this spray lubricant (WD-40 is not a lubricant) lying around and decided to give it a shot. I sprayed it into each latch as I worked the lock up and down, after a bit of...

I would forget about the sheetmetal for now until that vibration is fixed, body panel alignment has nothing to do with how the car drives... I'm willing to bet a wheel weight fell off one of your front tires, I would just take it into a tire shop and have the fronts re-balanced right off the...

Interstate speed limit around here is 75, I usually cruise around there or 80. I have noticed with my 5th Avenue the front end sheetmetal shakes and shimmies a lot more than my old A-body 1970 Duster driving at highway speeds, mainly going over rough patches of road or hitting bumps. Might be...

Nice work... just a tip though, toss those cork end gaskets for the intake manifold in the trash (you guys say 'rubbish' down there? lol) and just run a fat bead of oil-resistant RTV silicone (Permatex Ultra Black here in U.S.) along the surface right before you drop the intake on. Sometimes...

Thanks for the tip, I got the factory linkage to work though. I just added a small steel extension piece to the throttle cable end, I was then able to "seat" the steel sheath under the bracket instead of just the bare cable housing which kept sliding forward when I floored the gas pedal. It's...

OK, this thing is FINALLY working. I finagled the linkage enough to get it working right, turned out the kickdown rod was hitting the cable bracket nuts and I just popped the rubber grommet through to the passenger compartment; screw it I'll mess with that later lol. I also adjusted the floats...

You mean the Street Demon? I have the 750 cfm version actually, it won't work on this stocker 318 though since the primaries are really big. They had to limit the size of the secondaries to make it fit on a square-bore pattern so to get the increased airflow they bumped up the primary...

So I got the new gasket on, definitely runs better and I can see the metering tree move up and down when I work the throttle with it running. It has a bit of a stumble still though and I can't quite get it to idle as smoothly as the old stock 2-bbl ELB setup did. I think I may have set the...

I'm almost certain this carb my cousin got was just quickly torn apart by some bozo and the top and bottom sections spray-painted aluminum to look "rebuilt". The irony is my cousin thought that was just the way carb'd cars were supposed to run, as in needs to idle after initial startup for 5...