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I ordered a 12L from FTC last night. A bit pricey, but it does have a lifetime warranty so in case anything happens...

It's all in my "Lock-up torque converter not locking up" thread. I don't think I need an aftermarket one. Just an OEM/stock replacement.

I'm getting ready to purchase a oem/stock lockup torque converter and I'd like to get some suggestions before I stress out and buy one from a parts house. Thought about Precision of New Hampton, but I'm wondering if they have a clever sales pitch and a less that stellar product or they actually...

Neutral safety switch maybe? That's the only thing I can think of.

I replaced the filter and fluid and it's still not locking up. Like Greg posted that it should be fine to drive, I want to drive it, but I don't want to wind it out trying to hit 65-70 on the parkway. Should I get a reman TC from a parts store for a couple hundred, or go to a transmission shop...

Probably go back to O-O-O-O'Reilly's and swap to Dexron, just to play it safe. So if it does fuck something up, I can say, "I only did what the dipstick told me to!"

Okay. Now I'm faced with another conundrum. I bought AFT+. Now I'm wondering what type fluid is in the converter. I'm sure you not supposed to mix fluid types. Am I correct? Really don't have the knowhow to remove converter and drain it. Should I just go ahead and drain, replace filter, and...

My 904, I believe is having a bit of trouble. It has always locked up almost as soon as the trans shifted to third, just cruising along. A week or so ago, I was on my way home from work and it did lock up, but I kinda goosed it to get going a bit better and the car shook HARD. Dash, steering...

I did exactly that on all six sockets. No change. What I meant by "design flaw" is just the angle, positioning, and the shape of the taillight housings, not necessarily the wiring. When the sun is anywhere behind the car, it seems like it's shining directly into the housing, eliminating the...

The Zevos don't have the LEDs on the very end. They are on the sides, relying on the reflectors to supply the illumination. The metal on the end is a heat sink.

I checked the grounds and they seemed to be okay. I used my multimeter from each socket ground terminal to the ground for the trunk light and they were solid connections. Of course that probably doesn't mean anything. Design flaw?

I have Sylvania Zevo (?) 1157 LED brake lights. They have always been kinda dim, but I didn't realize how dim until we almost got rear ended while slowing down to pull into our driveway. The front turn signals are plenty bright, so I don't think it's a voltage problem. I had the same trouble...

I finally figured out what the problem was. Turns out that the firing order is VERY important! I installed a new electronic ignition system from Summit. Still ran like shit. Father in law, who is a longtime MOPAR mechanic, comes over and asks me if I've done anything else to my car. I don't just...

First is for a non-tilt wheel. The second is for a tilt wheel. Once you get everything taken apart, you have to push a spring type lock on each cylinder to remove it. Pull old cylinder out, push new one in until it locks in place. I watched a few videos before I tackled mine. Makes it easier...

I really don't remember when I bought it. I replaced it sometime last year, but not sure when. Glad I was able to show you something you'd never seen before, Mike!

I'll bet you're right. I have been having trouble with mine staying together. The top blew right off the other day. Never thought to check it. Thank you!

My car is our attached garage. When I start it or run it for a while, I roll it out of the garage to keep the fumes out of the house. I pushed it out this past Sunday and noticed a very strange looking "part" on the floor where the car usually sits. I have no idea what it could be. It's 1 1/4"...

I took it apart and was leary of the little springs, tiny allen head bolts, and check balls to really get into the nitty gritty of it. I did notice that the floats only had about 1/8" travel, so I tried to get it as close to the specified 1/4" from the rim. I've decided that I'm NOT running...

On the passenger side float bowl, it says- "Mfg by Carter Carburetors, St. Louis, MI #2681 The drivers side of the carb on the flat space above float bowl- 9 6-2373 I just looked at Mike's Carburetors on the "how to ID the correct rebuild kit for your Carter carburetor". It...

It's a Tomco rebuild from O'Reilly's.

That's my carb in the picture. Looking a bit closer, it does look like it was stamped. Mike's Carb said that 2681 is the model number for BB carb, so I don't really know. No tags at all on the carb anywhere.

I'm trying to go through Mike's Carburetors to purchase a rebuild kit. Told them I needed one for a Carter BBD. They asked me what the part number on the carb was, so I sent them a pic of the passenger side fuel bowl. He says "That's not a BBD. The part number says it's a BB". I'm sure a lot of...

Got the new tank leaned up against the garage wall as we speak. I'll go ahead and throw it at the tank when it gets here. Hopefully it won't end up being a winter project. Going to blow out the old fuel lines and pitch a new filter at it while I'm at it.

I just ordered the grommet. Better safe than sorry. Thank you!

I just "checked" the tank grommet and all around the filler neck, it's still flexible and *squishy*. That's another part I would play hell finding. By the way- what does AHB stand for?