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Thank you! I actually did a set of FMJ's today as well as a set for a '69 Dart. I need to update the pics as they are now even better.

Please Read: I need to update my add, but due to rising material costs and demand I am now charging $200 + $15 shipping a set. I am also doing them once a month on a weekend (usually the last weekend of the month) I will still be offering the core exchange program ($75 fully refundable...

LOL thats funny, a SC gas cap off of car part.....

not sure what to say? sold this a long time ago

usually it's a fiberglass or abs plastic plug.

F body has 1 hole on either side A body has 2 holes on either side and they are not the same size, never tried bolting one in though because i have never needed to.

yep this is the best way to do it

Ok so here is my question to all the F body t top owners..... I know it's nice to have weather strip that works but if you have a t top car how often do you drive it with the tops on? I know if my super coupe was a t top car the tops would be off in the bags in the trunk. Just sayen

middle is for the optional rear window blower

Hey Keith, Whats the Dia of the front sway bar and how much to 98033? -Ross-

ok here is mine ;)

cool (I want a set bad, but to put on my '52 T&C 2 door wagon) but good luck finding some.....

you selling the center caps that are off to the left?

you wouldn't happen to have the shifter boot and bezels off that?

Gotta love it when someone doesn't prep before they paint...

Looks like a good start! Looking forward to seeing it in person.

68 newport parts? whatcha go I am interested

YY1 is talking about the thin tag that got stamped a long the line when everything got the ok. Lynch Road was famous for not taking it off like they were saposto.

Both my '78 SE and '79 SE were high option cars and had two tags. They decode just like a regular tag.

I bought a hump a while ago and it turns out it is an A body hump. (My fault for not actually looking at it.....) Anyway It's for trade or sale pending my receiving an F body one. The A body one has been blasted and DP primered, it's a little ruff around the edges though from being in 2 cars...

Why don't you just go with no booster? Lots of extra space that way.

Damn dude, do you realize how hard your posts are to read? Take a second to read through them....

unless yours are rusted/broken or missing why do you need caliper bolts? Timikins are good and I believe still made in the USA, nationals are now made in china.

they did sell only rotors at one point but not for your car. It's a hub rotor assembly. go to the junk yard find a FMJ with good rotors (measure) have them turned. should be a lot cheaper then 200 a pop..... Here part # BR5314 at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

most likely crushed and on it's way to China....