1980 Volare Cop Car

[Ash_Whole]

the sleeves need to come off. kinda tight. i hit them with a hammer on a vise base to loosen the sleeve. then ran a screw driver into the split, then removed it.

i would love to soak this side like the other in Evapo-rust, but my bucket is dead and i dont need to spend $150 on another bucket when i have way more things to waste money on.

so, wire wheel it is.

 

[Ash_Whole]

time for alittle love for the lowers. needed to press in the balljoints before welding. i didn't want to, but someone poorly engineered them, once welded the press too would no longer fit.

 

[Ash_Whole]

once out, quick press in, then welded the braces. kinda nice doing it at work. had access to the exhaust system. using a welding hood to evacuate the smoke is so nice. wish i had it lying around. if it isnt too cold, gonna install everything except the bars this weekend.

 

[Ash_Whole]

it's cold outside. but anyways, threw that arms and spindle in.

 

[Ash_Whole]

then i realized that the shocks need to go on before that ball joints are connected. feels good throwing away empty parts boxes, making the pile smaller

 

[Ash_Whole]

well i screwed up. with the Canadian economy dropping, i don't want to wait the the dollar sinks lower, so i accidental bought a Lares steering box. was supposed to arrive on monday, but now i got a notice "sorry your package is delayed" telling me coming saturday? sorry??

so i though the steering box wouldn't be too hard. for sure the headers would not have to come out. i finally have headers that do not leak using $50 Remflex gaskets. so i was determined to not remove them.

well it can come out. i really hate the coupler on the box and the rag joint. i wish i could just get u-joints.

also if you use a brake sucker and rotated the box lock to lock you can suck out all the juice and not make an environmental disaster.

 

[Ash_Whole]

i don't know if anyone else does this, get some scrap corrugated cardboard and lay it on the ground. today is very cold and wet. but the plastic insulates so nice, wipes clean and actually cushions you. plus you never feel like kicking it down the driveway in frustration like a creeper

 

[Ash_Whole]

so the box does come out. not the way you think. i removed the PS pump, driver's engine mount through box and jacked under the header until the transmission is in the tunnel. now there is enough room to carry it out the front with smashing your new rad

 

[AMC Diplomat]

so the box does come out. not the way you think. i removed the PS pump, driver's engine mount through box and jacked under the header until the transmission is in the tunnel. now there is enough room to carry it out the front with smashing your new rad

View attachment 57410

View attachment 57411

Did you try taking the valve off it for clearance?

 

[Ash_Whole]

wasnt the valve. the shaft end and the body were hitting everything. the box just too big any other way

 

[Ash_Whole]

two steps forward, trip, break my back and then three steps back.

i managed to "restore' the bar end mounts. the one cleaned up nicely, the other was more of a fight. to clean the inside out and make fit, i used valve lapping compound and a wheel cylinder hone.

after it was cleaned, there were no shows on the hone. all worn off

 

[Ash_Whole]

next was to get the old brackets installed. installed the bushing on the bar end, which is a pain in its self. then installed the brackets, bolted and welded.

 

[Ash_Whole]

now fully restored to like used condition

 

[Ash_Whole]

got the new box delivered. time to install it. almost the same size as the OEM, but 2.5 turns is so much better. WTF were they thinking 60 years ago the 4.5 was good.

anyways, as a side note, i bought the wrong box. the one i got was a small sector box. trying to return it would end up costing me hundred in return shipping. fun fact, those arms are not easy to find, or even cheap.

 

[Ash_Whole]

i also managed to install new wheel bearings. but of course that did not go as planned.

i am tired for fighting, i will grind tomorrow