XfbodyX
Well-Known Member
What head gasket are you currently using? If you could use the thin .028 mr gasket 1121g has a good built in sealer pre applied and if you used some airplane gasket sealer or hi tac id bet you could get it to seal up.
360 power
- Thread starter charlesvolare
- Start date
charlesvolare
Well-Known Member
I used the Fel-Pro SFL1008
Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets SFL1008
I've used Mr. Gasket thin head gaskets before when I still had the magnum block with these heads- I'd have to go back and check to see if it's the same as you suggest- and have had problems with them, went through two sets... changed to fel-pro and no problems at all so I've stuck with them. Taught me how to change head gaskets fast, changed my last one and had the car started again in 3 hours.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
The only time in all the motors I've put together in the last 40 years that I've had any head gasket problems was on a small block mopar, the think leaked to the outside and stopped with stop leak. The one thing I do is deck the block and cut the heads so there flat and it's worked overtime. On my big blocks I'm still using steel shim factory gaskets that I have collected over the years.
charlesvolare
Well-Known Member
What stop leak do you use/recommend?
I went back to test and tune last week and here's an inside video of the fastest pass I've made so far. It didn't want to shift fast and firm, but I loosened the tv cable and it did a lot better, only a slight hesitation into 3rd after letting off the throttle a bit. I can upload a better video of the bad shifting later if I need to, but I think it's obvious here. And as long as I'm shifting on the column at the track it should be okay to just unhook the tv cable, right?
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
No you can't, as in can not disconnect the kick down linkage. But you can shift manually and that's what I would do.
I have had the best luck with this.
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
Good luck
The cooper works also.
I have had the best luck with this.
Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance
Good luck
The cooper works also.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
That slight bog is more than likely from the vacuum secondary try a stiffer spring.
It sounds like its going lean at the top of second gear also so try a number a time in the jets a see how it works. It might be that you need to drill or replace the metering plate on the secondary side. It works like the jets do on the primary side.
It sounds like its going lean at the top of second gear also so try a number a time in the jets a see how it works. It might be that you need to drill or replace the metering plate on the secondary side. It works like the jets do on the primary side.
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charlesvolare
Well-Known Member
The brake booster decided to tear the day before that so it has a huge vacuum leak and I'll need fix that first. the tv cable was adjust perfect for the street, but when I loosened the tv cable before that pass it shifted way better at wot, it acted like it was too tight when flooring the previous passes and wanted to stay in the lower gears as long as possible, even a little too long. But it's wayy too loose for normal street driving, that's why I asked if I could just unhook it and shift it manually just at the strip. I would've tried looser but it was the last run of the night. Could the bands need adjusting in the trans? I haven't made any adjustments to them since I built the trans.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
It could also be lack of fuel pressure in the top of second gear and third making it go lean.
By manipulating the kick down linkage to shift at a higher rpm you are taking fluid pressure away from band and clutch application this increasing the opportunity for slippage and toasting the transmission. I haven't used a automatic VB since the mid 80s so mabe someone else here can explain it better.
By manipulating the kick down linkage to shift at a higher rpm you are taking fluid pressure away from band and clutch application this increasing the opportunity for slippage and toasting the transmission. I haven't used a automatic VB since the mid 80s so mabe someone else here can explain it better.
DO NOT disconnect the kickdown linkage!
It WILL (not an "if", but a "will") cause your clutches wear out, in no time.
For fuel mileage (mainly) and for other reasons, the transmission runs at about 50-60 PSI line pressure (going by memory) at idle or low throttle pressure.
As the throttle petal goes down also means the power the engine is making goes up. In those cases, the line pressure also goes up to keep the clutches tight, up to about 90-100 PSI.
I like to keep the clutch pressure up and for race usage (only), for it is a good idea.
I brought this up one time in Chrysler transmission training class. I was presented with testing data on transmission clutch lifespan and sealing ring lifespan at different pressures. Chrysler literally tons of test data on the why they do what they do.
I don’t recall the exact results (this was 30-35 years ago) but the transmission sealing rings last about 3-times longer at lower pressure and clutch life is negligible at the lower pressure (at part to no throttle).
So, for street use, I would keep it like it should be.
For full-time race use, by all means, crank up the pressure and/or go with a reverse (or manual) valve body.
The shift points are controlled by a tug-of-war between line pressure vs. output shaft RPM (governor weights) vs. spring pressure (governor spring(s)). Also, the kickdown band adjustment as well as the clutch return spring(s) pressure - in the time it takes to change gears (a bit of the above equation).
For best ET, adjusting the kickdown lever (which alters the line pressure – which alters the fluid pressure going to governor), and/or adjusting the line pressure, and/or changing out governor springs/weights – can get your shift points dead on (without manual shifting).
Now with that said and the time and effort to do that – sometimes it is just easier to go get a manual valve body (for full time racing) and be done with it.
I hope this helps.
BudW
It WILL (not an "if", but a "will") cause your clutches wear out, in no time.
For fuel mileage (mainly) and for other reasons, the transmission runs at about 50-60 PSI line pressure (going by memory) at idle or low throttle pressure.
As the throttle petal goes down also means the power the engine is making goes up. In those cases, the line pressure also goes up to keep the clutches tight, up to about 90-100 PSI.
I like to keep the clutch pressure up and for race usage (only), for it is a good idea.
I brought this up one time in Chrysler transmission training class. I was presented with testing data on transmission clutch lifespan and sealing ring lifespan at different pressures. Chrysler literally tons of test data on the why they do what they do.
I don’t recall the exact results (this was 30-35 years ago) but the transmission sealing rings last about 3-times longer at lower pressure and clutch life is negligible at the lower pressure (at part to no throttle).
So, for street use, I would keep it like it should be.
For full-time race use, by all means, crank up the pressure and/or go with a reverse (or manual) valve body.
The shift points are controlled by a tug-of-war between line pressure vs. output shaft RPM (governor weights) vs. spring pressure (governor spring(s)). Also, the kickdown band adjustment as well as the clutch return spring(s) pressure - in the time it takes to change gears (a bit of the above equation).
For best ET, adjusting the kickdown lever (which alters the line pressure – which alters the fluid pressure going to governor), and/or adjusting the line pressure, and/or changing out governor springs/weights – can get your shift points dead on (without manual shifting).
Now with that said and the time and effort to do that – sometimes it is just easier to go get a manual valve body (for full time racing) and be done with it.
I hope this helps.
BudW
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
There are big negatives to running a manual valvebody on the street, the biggest is the freewheeling in gear costing then applying power to abruptly. There's that bomb under the floorboards again.
Oldiron440
Well-Known Member
Some manual valvebody freewheel in first only and some in all gears.
