77 Aspen

[shadango]

So I have a lead on an Aspen /6 .

Seller claims it has 11k miles on it.....says its in great shape. The few pictures available indicate it looks nice but you know how pictures can lie.

I know the price and miles seem good.

But.....if it is 40 years old and has 11k miles, I am thinking there could be a good deal of "because it sat" issues.

The car is pretty far from me -- so haven't seen it yet or else I would have already checked it out.

Advice?

 

[Oldiron440]

If it has sat you can plan on replacing all the hydraulic components in the breaks. All the rubber hoses, belts and probably water pump and of course tires. There is a chance that it will need valve stem seals, they can be changed without removing the heads and are not expensive.

 

[ttocs15]

Is it possible it is 111k or 211k miles? My odometer on my volare only has 5 digits so when it turned over past 100k it started at 0 again.

 

[BudW]

Look at the brake petal pad. That might be clue #1 as to if 11k or 111k (or 211k) miles.

Because it sat for long time shouldn’t affect a lot, especially if it was parked in a garage.

Items that sitting can affect:
Fuel tank, if level is low. If tank is full or completely empty, rust will not be an issue. Gasoline sludge can be an issue though.

A/C compressor seals tend to dry out/shrink over time because of in-activity. Sometimes adding R-12 and using it might fix the seals, but with the cost of R-12, one might be better off with compressor replacement and changeover to R-134a, maybe.

Brake fluid tends to absorb water. Water and iron = rust. Rubber seals in motion over rust = wore out seals, which equals leakage.
Any brake fluid leak will lead to either a “bad day” or a “very bad day” if you go to apply brakes and brakes reply: “no way . . . we quit” while driving.
The good news is brake wheel cylinders and rebuilt brake calipers are cheap. Aluminum brake master cylinders will last a long time. Iron brake master cylinders are susceptible to the same rust the calipers and wheel cylinders are.
Brake fluid should be changed every couple of years – because of water moisture absorption.

Cooling system: The anti-corrosion properties of anti-freeze lasts about two years. After that, rust/corrosion happens (ie: rusted freeze plugs and/or leaking heater core/radiator.

Many of the above mentioned items might be needed, regardless of the mileage, anyway.

I do recommend driving the car a bit (500 miles or 2 tanks of fuel (or so)), then go through and change all fluids/filters. Also perform a compressive check for any fluid leaks, anywhere.

Note: most of the engine seals on my '77 wagon had shrunk over time. I had to re-tighten everything on engine (and transmission), shortly after I got the car (at 34k miles) because of gasket leakage. After bolt tightening, almost all leakage has disappeared (still original gaskets). Most bolts were finger snug or ready to fall out.
BudW

 

[shadango]

Is it possible it is 111k or 211k miles? My odometer on my volare only has 5 digits so when it turned over past 100k it started at 0 again.

Yeah that ran across my mind......the couple pictures they sent seem to not be that of a 111k car, but then again, like I said, pictures lie.

Its 4 hours from my house though....trying to find someone who lives near it to maybe check it out on my behalf......to see if its worth the trip or not.

 

[Oldiron440]

A car with 11k will have dust on the motor and trans over the oe paint.

 

[XfbodyX]

An east coast car with 11k miles unless in a heated garage that sat for any period of time could easily look like a driven 111k car under the hood, time and moisture are not friendly to most anything metal. I know first hand unfortunately.

Look behind the front bumper and see if the parts pull ticket (paper sticker) is still on the backside of the 5 mph safety insert cross member, many real low mile cars have them, a 111k car would more then not have it due to the natural elements of the 111k miles of driving.

Pics are of a very low mile east coast F that sat alot indoors, rubber parts exe, metal, good but not like new.

 

[XfbodyX]

Double post, sorry.

 

[BudW]

Take a lot of pictures (25+), and post here.

I’ve looked at a lot of cars over the tears for others (potential buyers). So much to say and so little room to say it.

Some key areas to photograph would be rear brake backing plates (looking for axle seal and/or wheel cylinder leakage),

This is a poor picture to use as example – but tire, wheel and brake drum do not show any signs of leakage (yellow oval). Pay no attention to the lone blade of grass that jumped in front of my camera (yellow oval).

underside of engine (quantity (not quality) of original engine paint and for leaks), transmission case (many or most rebuilt transmission cases are painted, and/or transmission pan color (should be not painted, or is rusty in color).

Look inside of radiator neck (should be clear and green anti-freeze, with the level just touching the bottom of the neck (or top of tank) and no signs of corrosion buildup).

On FMJ vehicles, also check the rear half of front frame rails for rust, rust through or is so rusty – they no longer exist.

Top is a nice rail (my '77 wagon, taken a month ago). The bottom pic – not so much. Both are the same part (R/F frame rail) but different cars.

I could go on and on, but pictures say 1000 words – they say. Being the car is 4 hours away, doesn’t help much.
BudW

 

[shadango]

Havent heard back from the seller when I asked for pictures, so......