9134S Thermoquad

[Leizurtime]

Purchased this carb for my engine swap. Without going into to much detail, I require a California emissions carb for 1978 and this is the best thing I could come up with. Any suggestions and help on rebuilding it is much appreciated. It seems to be missing a few components.

 

[Leizurtime]

 

[kkritsilas]

There is a set of videos (10 parts) that goes through the entire rebuild process on Youtube. The guy going through the process is very careful to not all the little details that can trip you up.

See here for part 1:

 

[BudW]

Your carburetor is almost complete (great job)!

The Choke Pull-off diaphragm is missing (would recommend replacing it, anyway) and I “think” the rod from it might be bent (purple arrow - two pictures down). I have a few spare links and can ship one off to you if you are willing to pay shipping (bubble bag envelope).
If it is bent – it can be un-bent, providing you have an example to go by. The C-clips for it will come in a carburetor kit. Even the attachment bolt is still there, which is good.

This picture above is from a “parts only” 76 TQ (non-Lean Burn) – which shows how the Choke Pull-off should look like. The C-clips are barely visible. The top C-clip has a small flat washer between it and the C-Grove it slides in.

The Choke Pull-off bolts to base plate using one screw (red arrow). This screw can be removed/reinstalled without taking carburetor apart – but is not fun to do. The Choke Pull-off hose connects to the gold appearing vacuum nipple that is seen on Left side of picture.

Blue arrow goes to Choke Pull-off. Red arrow (hose) goes to air cleaner.

It might not be anything – but I would like to see a better picture (different direction) of the area in blue circle (to confirm no missing parts).
The orange circle is the cruise control cable adapter. If you have or will be having cruise control – keep this part on. If not, you can remove this link and its pin – but it won’t hurt anything if you let it be.
The green circle is a missing throttle cable stud. This stud is mostly universal with Chrysler and can easily be removed from your 2-bbl and added on here.

The throttle stud will look like this:

Choke Pull-offs are still easy to find, new. Below is one (of many) I have.

Because I live in a high humidity area, I use wife’s food vacuum packer to keep my spare parts from rusting before I get a chance to use ‘em.

A new Choke Pulloff will not come the “what appears to be bent” rod. The “what appears to be bent arm is Carter part number 115-522 and never was offered for sale by Chrysler.

Before taking carburetor to get rebuilt – be sure to squirt some penetrating oil on the base plate for the top screws. Matter of fact, it is better to do it now, just to make sure you don’t have any problems. The metal screws have a tendency to rust in place, running the base plate – if not ruining more.
BudW

 

[BudW]

Part of my collection of TQ’s. The ones in the plastic bins are for TQ parts.
My builder TQ’s are vacuum packed and put away (not shown).

I have several piles of TQ’s gathered, not even inventoried yet

Including one Brand New one (lower corner), with a mounting ear broken off of the base plate.

Why I have 85-90 TQ’s in my garage – I honestly don’t know.
Once good thing is I do have plenty of parts for them.

Also, kinda odd, that I don’t even have a drivable 4-bbl car in my fleet.
BudW

 

[BudW]

Engine cast date is 5 – 4 – 78 (May 4, 1978).

Block cast number 4008830 – 360 (360 engine blocks cast between 1976 to 1980).

EIN (Engine Serial Number) is (either 8 or 9)K 360 1221. 59019 (stamped on second line) – which is a number I cannot locate (One of the very first ones I can't find information about).
Also, all of these numbers are all either double-stamped or stamped faintly.

What numbers should represent are:
8 or 9 = 1978 or 9 (note: the 8 (or 9) is stamped at an angle, and only the lower right corner is legible.)
K = Plant (not Mound Road (M) or Windsor (W). Possibly Kokomo – but I thought they only made transmissions there)
1221 = 10,000 day code – which does not translate (see attached photos)
59019 = number engine built that day – which is not reasonable. Also this engine is on a different (second) line – which I hadn't seen on small blocks, before.

There are several digits not stamped hard at all (like 360 and first digit). Heavy paint would make some digits invisible.

1978

1979

1980

This engine came from a big motor home – but I still don't know why I can only find conflicting details according to my '78-81 Truck guide (pictures taken from book to verify).

Mileage is unknown – but if I was to guess 30 to 40k miles. No ridge on cylinder walls.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced at least once as well as water pump and fuel pump. Other than that, the engine didn't appear to ever be into, before I took it apart.
BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

This engine looks promising and I am very interested. Although, it may have been used on a 79 vehicle. Stamp definitely looks like "9K" to me. Not sure if that makes a difference. Suppose it wouldn't take much though to fudge in my own "8" stamp over that 9 This serial #, is it located on the block, just below #1 Cylinder? Is it covered by the exhaust manifold?

Did you try looking in 1977 for the 10,000 day correlation dates? Looks like that serial number would have fell in that realm according to pages you're looking at. I'm also curious how much shipping would be. After some sleuthing I came up with Toluca for the K code. Look at the bottom of this page.

Engine Stamping Decoding | MoparCarParts.Com

 

[Leizurtime]

I plan on keeping the CC linkage, I have an entire donor cruise control setup ready and waiting.

I was curious about this part, mine seems to be missing, whats it for exactly?

Another thing I'm going to need, is an idle stop solenoid for this carb. My car has AC.

 

[Leizurtime]

I take it the serial number is the vehicle build date and the casting date is exactly that. The day the engine was forged. According to the build date on the serial code, the vehicle was built exactly on my birthday. lol. 12/21/79.

 

[BudW]

I was curious about this part, mine seems to be missing, whats it for exactly?

Your green circle is the mechanical bowl vent (not electric).
The hose fitting for bowl vent is just above the linkage.
The A/C solenoid would attach in the same general area.

According to the build date on the serial code, the vehicle was built exactly on my birthday. lol. 12/21/79.

There are three different dates – two of which are on the engine. There is the date the block was cast (5/4/1978), date engine was assembled (which is the 1221 number) and date vehicle was assembled (not marked on engine – except for last 8 digits of VIN – in a different location).

These pictures are from my '77 wagon.
The EIN is 7M 318 1110 9981
7 = 1977
M = Mound Road (MI)
318
1110 = November 10 (1976)
9981 = 9,981th 318 made that day – which seams like a very high number.

According to my '77 manual, they cars are marked different than trucks – but I would say my truck book is wrong.
I would also say 1221 most likely is December 21 (1978).

Now here is the odd thing, This engine had to be one of the last ones made on November 10 (1976).

My VIN sticker (door jamb) shows this car was made in Hamtramck (MI), the following day. The MDH (Month Day Hour) shows 111110 (November 11, 10am).

A few months ago, I shipped a NOS 440 short block (block, crank, rods and pistons, from OKC to Los Angeles and it cost me about $140 (US). This crate was right at 450 pounds.
I would say a bare 360 block crated up, to be about more than half that weight. The shipping cost – would still be about the same, though (go figure).

If interested – I can go dig out the block and take more pictures – but that may take a week, or more to do (garage is dang hot, this time of year . . .).
BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

Your green circle is the mechanical bowl vent (not electric).
The hose fitting for bowl vent is just above the linkage.
The A/C solenoid would attach in the same general area.

Sooooo, does that mean it remains naked or is something supposed to screw on there? Because, I get the feeling, even if non-functional, something is supposed to bolt on there.

 

[BudW]

Cars with Electric Bowl Vent, those parts (in your green circle) and the above hose fitting, were not used.

An idle solenoid and/or TPS (throttle position sensor) also goes in the same area (in conjunction with mechanical vent linkage, or not).

I may have an idle solenoid – but garage is just too dang hot to spend more than a couple of minutes in, at a time.
When we get some rain or a reason for a temp drop (and if I remember to do so), I can go in there and get some pictures for you of Idle solenoid(s).
BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

Cars with Electric Bowl Vent, those parts (in your green circle) and the above hose fitting, were not used.

An idle solenoid and/or TPS (throttle position sensor) also goes in the same area (in conjunction with mechanical vent linkage, or not).

I may have an idle solenoid – but garage is just too dang hot to spend more than a couple of minutes in, at a time.
When we get some rain or a reason for a temp drop (and if I remember to do so), I can go in there and get some pictures for you of Idle solenoid(s).
BudW

Hey BudW, do you have a part # for the 1978 360 idle stop solenoid for the TQ?

 

[BudW]

My Chrysler information, as well as my Carter Carburetor information, only shows one solenoid available on ’78 model Thermoquads – for the vent solenoid (the one on back of carburetor).

There is a Throttle Position Sensor on Lean burn models and a throttle closed sensor on many of the ’78 versions – but no throttle or idle solenoids.

Earlier TQ’s did use a five different versions of idle solenoids – to be used for either A/C or to open throttle for after-run conditions – but most cars did not get them. Officially, it has nothing to do with after-run conditions but is for catalyst protection – but it actually does both.

Before 1978, I the five different part numbers for idle solenoids on Thermoquads, that I did find are:
Dodge part number / Carter part number
1972/1973
3438883 / 213-53s
1974/75
3656858 / 213-61s
1976/77
4026211 / 213-72s
4026210 / 213-75s
4049163 / 213-079a
1978 – 80
not available

BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

So was there no a/c in 1978? Every school kid knows that the a/c compressor robs about 5 horse power and the idle needed to be bumped up to compensate. Idle stop solenoid technology seemed to run through the 80's why this gap here?

 

[BudW]

I can’t answer why they didn’t use one in ’78.

Sense the 9134s did not come with one – doesn’t mean you can’t update/retrofit yours with one.

It was rare to have any carbureted car back then to have the same idle RPM for any two years in a row. Not sure why but idle RPM varied from engine to engine and from year to year.

I suspect they bumped idle RPM up for cars with A/C that year - instead of paying for additional hardware to bump RPM up automatically.

Chrysler was going through money problems at the time and they may have looked at a bunch of cost saving measures. I think the solenoid was one of those items that got chopped.
BudW

 

[BudW]

Every school kid knows that the a/c compressor robs about 5 horse power

Personally, I think it robs more than 5 horsepower.

It depends on the heat load at the time (which varies) but I would guess it robs more like 5-20 horsepower (note: I do not know for sure – so could be way off base).
BudW

 

[Leizurtime]

Just a basic principle, I learned from my HS auto shop tech. I'm sure power consumption varies due to conditions. Perhaps lean burn took control of the solenoid function in 78. So do I just get pictures or can I purchase some of these items?

 

[BudW]

The Lean Burn computer – not right away (the first couple of years, I think), but later on they figured out they could toss more functionality into the computer - such as EGR control and so forth.

My detached garage gets to about 120 degrees (if feels like – but not measured), so I don’t do much in it, this time of year. When I get a chance I will take a few pictures and post here.
BudW

 

[BudW]