Adding Cruise Control to 77 Wagon

BudW

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This is the independent cruise wiring harness that fits the older cars.
This harness I bought off of eBay a decade ago and (if memory is correct) came off of a ’74 Challenger. This harness fits pretty much anything Chrysler made from mid ‘60’s to early ‘80’s (when they incorporated the harness into the vehicle harness).
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BudW

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Instructions from my ’88 M body Cruise Control kit.

The procedures will work on all FMJ cars ’87 and down except for exact details on stop light switch and minor differences on cruise switch install.

Note: I think someone changed the cruise switch in this setup, for it does not look like one that goes for our cars. This was an open box, so anything could be possible. The cruise switch is the same from ’80-87 except for color and if (or not) tilt steering.

Note: the stop light switch changed in ’88-89 to the block or cube style shown. The stop light switch for ’76-87 are the same and looks more like a threaded plastic bolt. The electrical connector is big time different on ‘88 and up stop light switches.

Note: this kit came without any wiring harness. The pigtails are already made into the newer harnesses (not true for the older harnesses).
 

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BudW

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The contents of my ’88 M body cruise kit.
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Bolts to brake booster/master cylinder, for cable.

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The hard to find 4 bbl cable bracket.

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Lower Speedometer cable (clip on design)

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Upper speedometer cable.

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New style actuator bracket. Older style shares the same fender bolt hole pattern but is a lot shorter.
 

BudW

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This is the '88 and up pigtail. The '87 and down uses a big time different connector.
 

BudW

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This small parts package contains the following three pictures:
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This small back contains the two throttle cable clips, a fuse and the link pin for carburetor lever. For some reason the lamp caused the lines in the white bag.

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The white square is the cruise switch wiring connector, to be installed after swtich is installed.
 

Leizurtime

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Any one have any idea where to find early 1977 plymouth cruise control switch? Thats the only thing I need to hook up the system. Oh, besides the throttle cable bracket for the carb, need to find that too. Otherwise, I got the whole setup.
 

BudW

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Roughly ’70 to ‘79 cruise switches come in three different flavors (based off of the column they fit).
Non-tilt, tilt and then Tilt/telescopic. The last version is only for some C-bodies.
Early ‘80’s pickups and vans are also a source for the ‘70’s cruise switches.

You can get the first two to interchange but the angle the arm leaves the column is different - so wrong arm could be too close to wheel or too far away. A person could bend the arm to make one fit, though (I’ve not tried that).

I might recommend checking with FBBO “Parts Wanted” section. FCBO might also be a good place. Not very many A-bodies ever got cruise – but it doesn’t hurt to ask.

If you happen to find more than one switch, let me know. I would like to get a non-tilt switch – and hadn’t started to look for one, yet.

With the exception of tilt vs. non-tilt switches (I don’t remember which one has more angle to it other -than one is almost flat (90’ angle) and other has about 15’ angle to it (75’ angle)).
I can tell you if one you find will work, or not, by looking at a picture of the switch.
Note: the angle of existing turn signal lever will be the same angle of cruise switch lever.

Now the cruise switch which is really hard to find is the ones made in the ‘60’s.
BudW
 

lowbudget

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Get a part number and check with Marty to see if doesn't a NOS one. You might also check with Deconstuctor Jim to see if he has a used one.
 

BudW

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From my ’77 parts book:
Non-tilt (all ’77 cars) 3746518
Tilt (no C bodies, in ’77) 3747136

The non-tilt switch – there is a slim chance that might still be available from Dodge.
Not so, for the tilt version.

I found a few hits on the internet, as well.


Note: if you find a used switch – there are two ways to remove them. The most popular method is to cut the wiring harness half way to the electrical connector (wiggle room). That is fine as long as you have both pieces. Solder the wires back together and tape up well, and you will be fine.

The other method is to use an electrical terminal tool and remove the white connector from the electrical ends. Most salvages will not take the time to do that. The only problem with the last version is getting the electrical connectors back in the correct hole (I’ve miss-wired more than a couple).
No damage will happen – other than your pride.
BudW

Edit: typo's
 
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Leizurtime

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Scored today at the pick your part. Appears to be an after factory switch from a 79 Aspen. Easily pulled the connector up through the steering column. Its old and cracked. At least, for 18 bucks instead of 80, which is the cheapest I could find on ebay, I can get on my way.
 
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