anyone know where i can get a front tag bracket that fits with no drilling?

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  1. IndieDippy

    IndieDippy Well-Known Member

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    looking for a tag bracket like this one. bolts on to the slots underneath the front bumper and lets you slide your plate into it. this one is on my fathers Diplomat. the state of Maryland requires a front plate so i zip tied my tag to the grille but i really want to get a tag holder so i don't have to drill into the rubber on the front bumper. i looked around at auto part stores but couldn't find one , neither could i find a suitable one on ebay. anyone know one that could fit or have one? thanks!

    20191024_193323.jpg
     
  2. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    I’ve been meaning to make one at work for myself. Just going to mig some stainless steel banding together and drill the bottom mounting holes and tap some threads to mount the plate. I’m missing mine also.
    I’ll shoot you a picture when I get around to it...maybe ship one to you with those hub caps lol
    For now, I have mine zip tied to the black nerf strip that runs across the bumper. No drilling required.
     
  3. IndieDippy

    IndieDippy Well-Known Member

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    sounds good. didn't know you could zip it to that! popped it out a little bit i guess?
     
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  4. Camtron

    Camtron Well-Known Member

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    Yea, I used a little non marring panel/clip removal tool to lift the nerf strip enough to slide the zip tie behind it.
     
  5. IndieDippy

    IndieDippy Well-Known Member

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    AMAZIN! and here i was gonna drill into the rubber
     
  6. brotherGood

    brotherGood Well-Known Member

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    Ohio requires one until June. I'm tempted to go ahead and take it off anyway, and just keep the plate in the front window.

    If you can't find one, let me know and I may just go ahead and do so (I was trying to hold off until closer in case they change their minds)
     
  7. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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  8. IndieDippy

    IndieDippy Well-Known Member

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    thanks! that looks like it might work. also do you know how to get into the trunk of a Dip without the key? tried taking out the seat but it looks like its solid behind the insulation...
     
  9. Aspen500

    Aspen500 Well-Known Member

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    You should have access to the trunk through the back seat. There may be a luggage compartment carpet panel behind the insulation(?). Depending on if there's a tail panel cover or not, you can use a loooooooooong screwdriver in the lock slot in the latch, unless you're small enough to be able to crawl through the opening.
    Other option is a locksmith to "pick" the lock.
     
  10. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Ah, a trunk lock without a key. Fun job (done it many many times).

    The hard part (in many cases) is the rear seat bottom removal. There are two clip rails on lower seat attached to floor pan. You must move the seat bottom back about 1 inch (25 cm) to unclip the seat. I find using my palm. I can hit/push the bottom of seat back enough to unpop it (it might take a couple of tries). When one side is unpopped, then go to next side. Sometimes you have snaps that hold the seat belts in place (very easy to snap back in place – providing you have three hands).

    Next is to remove the seat back. Chrysler used two different methods to retain the seat backs. Either a pair of screws (3/8” – I think) or fold over tabs. After screws are removed (or tabs bent over) the rear seat back is to be raised up about an inch then it can be removed.

    There will be a thick piece of sound deadening material sheet just between the seat called the trunk divider. Don’t get too rough with it for it will tear. This piece of material reduces a ton of road noise into car and is hard to believe it eliminates as much noise as it does. Raise the trunk divider up a short distance to clear the two hooks (red circles, below).
    Trunk Divider.jpg

    68 Charger seat back.jpg
    This is a shot from a ’68 Charger – but most FMJ’s will look similar.
    A SMALL person can craw though the hole – but the other 95% of us, there ain’t no way that will happen.

    I have a four-foot long flat blade screwdriver just for the purpose of opening trunks like this. Once you get the trunk divider panel removed, it helps to get a flashlight (or two) or a helper to hold a flashlight. On the rear trunk panel, there will be a silver trunk latch.
    Trunk Latch a.jpg
    On the latch there will be an area looking like this:
    lock hole.png
    Insert a screwdriver into the slot indicated and twist (counterclockwise). The trunk will open without too much effort.
    If it has been a while sense trunk has been opened, then it might be a good idea to have a helper open the trunk for sometimes the weatherstripping will hold the lid closed.
    If you don’t have or want to purchase a long screwdriver – then you do have options. I have a friend who took a short piece of broom handle and regular screwdriver and used hose clamps to hold the screwdriver. Tape would work as well. I’m sure there are several other options as well (use your imagination).

    One other possible obstacle might be trunk contents. Also, the spare tire might be an issue. Most cases, these can be worked around.

    Now that trunk is open, the next best thing is to remove the lock cylinder and take to a locksmith to either get a key made or get it re-coded for new keys. All of Chrysler trunk locks use a rounded key – unless you have a police or taxi (which uses a matching ignition lock key).

    The trunk lock cylinder is either held in with a large C-clip which can be removed with a flat screwdriver or a large nut (depending on what year car was made). Either method is not hard to do.
    Trunk Lock - Original MPLS7072-2 | eBay clip-on.
    Trunk Lock - Original MPLS7374-2 | eBay nut design.

    The difficulty will be is if your car has a cover for the trunk lock like this:
    Trunk Medallion 2.jpg
    If so, you will need to drill out the pop-rivets out (yellow arrows, above) to get the medallion removed before the lock cylinder can be removed. It is not too hard a job to do. I can’t remember if rivets are 1/4” or 3/16”. The lock cylinder pulls right out. You “can” travel with lock cylinder removed. To open the trunk, just insert a flat screwdriver into the “missing” lock cylinder hole and turn clockwise. With that said, EVERYONE else can open your trunk, as well.

    I hope this helps.
    BudW
     
  11. IndieDippy

    IndieDippy Well-Known Member

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    thanks for that info. unfortunately i had to have the key cylinder drilled out so now i have to open the trunk with a screwdriver. embarrassing. locked my keys in the trunk after fixing a taillight.
     
  12. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    Well jump on ebay and get a new lock, hell your in balt, id bet a good many rigs have punched out locks, ect....if its like Philly a bullet hole here or there is normal.
     
  13. IndieDippy

    IndieDippy Well-Known Member

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    luckily i'm from a decent area near Balto. i still lock my whip up good especially when i do go into a worse area or the city. the penstar covers up the lock so its not to obvious but i will get a new cylinder. there isn't really much worth taking in my trunk so its not a huge priority.
     
  14. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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    Long long ago when I had my 5th ave I came out one am and had a homeless person sleeping in the back seat, its funny now, not so much then.
     
  15. IndieDippy

    IndieDippy Well-Known Member

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    yikes! heard that same scenario happens a lot in the city. if i find someone sleeping in my trunk hes getting shut in there!
     
  16. XfbodyX

    XfbodyX Well-Known Member

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  17. IndieDippy

    IndieDippy Well-Known Member

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