brakes catching and locking up when going downhill and throttle body replacement

Mikes5thAve

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Change the carb and call it done. Altho at that point you might as well change to a vacuum distributor too and have something that can actually be tuned properly.
I've never driven an M that has had the feedback carb removed and ran as efficiently without it.
 

BudW

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The Holley 2280 and 6280 look a lot alike - but very few parts will interchange between the two. I like your thinking about converting the 6280 - but, unfortunately, it doesn't work that way. You will need to find a complete 2280 (or a Carter BBD non-feedback) if going the 2-bbl route.

If a person was to un-hook the electrical connectors to a 6280, the solenoids will default in a position of either 5% too rich or 5% too lean (all of the time) - which will make the car not very drivable.

Something to think about is this: 158 NEW CARBURETOR CARTER STYLE BBD HIGH TOP DODGE 273 318 8 CYL 72-85 | eBay . This is a Chinese BBD knockoff, but it is new and complete and does work. That said, A person does need to go through it and make sure ALL of the settings are correct (float level, various choke settings, etc.) first before using, because the two I did purchase, the settings were ALL OVER the place.
Note: the quality of the knockoffs are not that great (when compared to a real BBD) - but they do get the job done.
If wanted, you could have one shipped to me. I could make sure it is set correctly up, then mail to you to install. Those initial basic carburetor settings make the biggest difference and well worth the time to make sure are setup correctly.
The BBD and 2280/6280 both hook up exactly the same except for a couple of vacuum hoses and the choke thermostat is different height (1/4" If I recall correctly). To be honest, the bi-metallic spring inside of the choke thermostat wears out after 15 years or so, a new thermostat will things as well (just as long as one gets the BBD version for BBD or 2280/6280 version for the 2280/6280).

I am not a fan of Holley (any Holley) which is why the above eBay product (BBD knockoff) is what is currently under the hood of my '86 Fifth Ave.
BudW
 

BudW

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you might as well change to a vacuum distributor too and have something that can actually be tuned properly. I've never driven an M that has had the feedback carb removed and ran as efficiently without it.
I can't disagree with that - but not sure what his level of expertise is or how his funds are.
Budw
 

IndieDippy

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I can't disagree with that - but not sure what his level of expertise is or how his funds are.
Budw
my level of expertise = not at all. i perhaps got a bit over my head when buying this car. i'd pretty much just always wanted one and this one was i great condition and formerly owned by an old man so i figured it'd be very well taken care of mechanically, but this vacuum leak problem has plagued the car ever since i got it varying between not noticeable at all one day, and stalling the car another. i was able to correct one today after she stalled out on the road. this thing had come unplugged. plugged it back in and the car had a minor fit and went back to running like normal. i also noticed the engine seemed exceptionally hot and look at this hose! had a coolant flush not to long ago, thats a pretty new hose, and shes run fine all summer even during the dog days. coolant level seems fine too but i'll top it off and see what happens. might walk to work tomorrow just to give her a rest





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IndieDippy

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anyways i've seen that many guys get that knock off Carter. if its good then i'll definitely pick one up. very good price, a lot better then the remanufactured 6280s. your offer of having it sent to you for tuning is very generous and i might take you up on that, anything to finally get rid of this pain in the butt kicking and stalling
 

BudW

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As far as the loose wire (white circle), it attaches to the oxygen sensor (yellow circle) via a orange pigtail (hidden but at the pink arrow). That wire becomes disconnected anytime the air cleaner is "re-located" and easily forgotten about.
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I am not sure what you are referring to as to:
and look at this hose!
The area (green circle) is from hose rubbing against the hood insulation. It is neither a good thing or a bad thing. What is a bit off is the radiator hose is a bit long and needs to have about 1/2 inch trimmed off at the blue arrow. That will result in a bit of coolant loss.
The easier fix would be to loosen the hose clamp (gold circle) and rotate the radiator hose about 1/8th a turn and re-tighten the hose clamp. You might have a bit of leakage when that occurs but that much. You are not looking to remove the hose, just rotate the hose "clock position" a bit. that should keep the hose from rubbing the hood insulation.
NOTE: only do either when car is cool to cold. If engine is hot, you will (not if, but will) get burnt!

From this picture, I don't see any coolant leaks.

If you suspect you do have a coolant leak, I recommend going to a parts store and renting a "cooling system pressure tester".
It will look something like this:
Cooling Sys Press Tester.jpg

Remove the radiator cap (WHEN CAR IS COOL TO COLD - OR YOU GET BURNT) and screw on the cap. Give the pump a few pumps and the pressure should remain steady. If you had a coolant drip, it will become a gusher. Some times you can hear the leak before you see it. This is a great tool to have and it will work with most all cars today (providing you have the necessary adapters) - but is pricy and not for the average mechanic. If you think you have a leak - this will find it.
 

IndieDippy

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looked like the hose had gotten white with heat and that hose has gotten very hot, though that hose being hot is pretty normal, the engine will smell kinda burnt at times, i'm almost positive i have little to no oil burning situation going on though. i'll top off the coolant when shes cold and perhaps spray some carb cleaner around to look and see whats going on. btw/ my heat gauge has never worked and the alternator gauge only sometimes. fuse is fine and i tried plugging it in further but i might just need a new one
 

Mikes5thAve

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It's normal for that hose to get hot.
It's an amp meter not volt meter, I've never had one that its movements were really noticeable.
The temp gauge runs off a sensor on the intake right behind that pulley. It has a threaded end that points up and the wire should have a black 90 degree end to it that pushes over it.
 

BudW

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I think the correct term is Ammeter. Back in the '50's the Ammeter was a useful tool. By the late '70's the Volt meter became a more useful tool (which didn't come out with Chrysler until early '90's).
The way to do a quick test is when in car - watch the Ammeter for any movement when headlights are turned on (engine off). it should move a smidge (to the Left) and move back once headlights are turned off.

The Temp gauge and fuel gauge (and oil pressure gauge if equipped) uses a 5 volt signal. Both (or all three) gauges work identically.
The Ohm readings for both (or all three) sensors/senders are:
Full tank/temp gauge to max reading (oil pressure gauge to max reading) = 10 Ohm
Mid range position (all gauges) = 23 Ohm
Empty tank, cold engine (or no engine oil pressure) = 74 Ohm

At one time, I had an old fuel sending unit with a couple of gater clips attached, to use to test the gauges with - and for that, it worked great (testing fuel, temp (or if equipped, oil pressure)). If the tester was used, and the gauges worked according to low (mid if used) and high readings, then the harness and gauge are OK. IF the gauges do perform using the above mentioned resistance values - then the sensor/sender is at fault. If they were not correct, then a problem with gauges, wiring or the 5-volt regulator.

Note: the 5-volt regulator will be OK if one of the other gauges work fine (fuel, temp and/or oil pressure). The oil light and Ammeter are on separate circuits.

In your case, I suspect the temp sensor wiring might be disconnected from the sensor or has another harness problem somewhere.
86 Underhood b.jpg

The general location of the temp gauge sensor is in the white circle (which is under a whole lotta of ____).
This is a better picture:
20160623_014953b.jpg

The sending unit is bottom arrow and wire is top arrow. Why both (and hose clamp) are painted blue - IDK.

BudW
 

IndieDippy

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I've about had it up to here with this old car. every drive is hell now. gonna buy that carter now. hope that ends this. just got new valve cover gaskets and that did jack all even though one was indeed leaking. i can sort of see where there is a bit of a gap where the carb gasket is. i just really hope and pray that getting an all new carburetor will finally put this clicking, bucking, shaking, and stalling to rest. i really feel unsafe driving this thing now
 

IndieDippy

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ok so i apologize for my little rant there. was just after a very hectic drive. after a bit of clearer mind i took a look and found a hose leading from the front of the car to the vapor canister (part number 18519) is bowing to the point you can stick your finger into its end there. its quite hard to see in these pictures as its hard to get the camera there. in these pics you can also see how the throttle body- float bowl gasket is leaking as well

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BudW

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'88 Holley 6280 list# R40276. Chrysler p/n 4324647

Yes, the carb gaskets are leaking - but are not leaking that bad.
I recommending taking a new-ish Phillips screwdriver (not a wore out one) and hand tighten those screws and I bet that leakage drops. When I worry about leakage is when I see the side of carb or intake wet (from gasoline) and that needs to have more attention brought to it. What you have is something that I don't get excited about and can wait for another day.

If the hose marked by red circle is one disconnected - I can see how car will not run well.
bowing hose.jpg

You might want to make sure the end of hose is not damaged (split) and reconnect it. You might see if it works better if routed under the harness bundle, maybe.
 

IndieDippy

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'88 Holley 6280 list# R40276. Chrysler p/n 4324647

Yes, the carb gaskets are leaking - but are not leaking that bad.
I recommending taking a new-ish Phillips screwdriver (not a wore out one) and hand tighten those screws and I bet that leakage drops. When I worry about leakage is when I see the side of carb or intake wet (from gasoline) and that needs to have more attention brought to it. What you have is something that I don't get excited about and can wait for another day.

If the hose marked by red circle is one disconnected - I can see how car will not run well.
View attachment 45095
You might want to make sure the end of hose is not damaged (split) and reconnect it. You might see if it works better if routed under the harness bundle, maybe.
just snipped that end off (cut my hand with the scissors, nice!) and got home with quite the nice drive. seems the old hose had just a little bit of cracking and wasn't on all the way. will try and tighten those screws later on. what is odd was the car kinda freaked out when i first took that hose off and reattached it without snipping off the end. i don't know but hey, i got home safe. another odd thing is the car mellowed out before i even messed with the hose on the way to buy better scissors. no idea what to make of it but hey, snipping that hose definitely made things better and probably could've saved me lots of money! the grime around there might be down to 30+ years wear and tear or the car flooded out long before i got it. never flooded on me as long as i've had it. (BTW i did relocate the offending hose to under that other bundle just incase there was a kink in the hose or anything)
 
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IndieDippy

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'88 Holley 6280 list# R40276. Chrysler p/n 4324647

Yes, the carb gaskets are leaking - but are not leaking that bad.
I recommending taking a new-ish Phillips screwdriver (not a wore out one) and hand tighten those screws and I bet that leakage drops. When I worry about leakage is when I see the side of carb or intake wet (from gasoline) and that needs to have more attention brought to it. What you have is something that I don't get excited about and can wait for another day.

If the hose marked by red circle is one disconnected - I can see how car will not run well.
View attachment 45095
You might want to make sure the end of hose is not damaged (split) and reconnect it. You might see if it works better if routed under the harness bundle, maybe.
went through and tightened up those screws which they didn't move much. car definitely ran better than it has in a while especially since its been getting cold. one odd thing the car will do is act as if its cold outside when it isn't (i take it you know how a not warmed up carbed car is like) choke issue idk, or me being impatient as usual. one thing i did want to ask about that BBD you recommended and i feel i may have already is. what about the wires the 6280 has? with this part need to be retrofitted onto the BBD? i know there are lean burn BBDs as well. i have a 6280 rebuild kit as well so i might just go with that though my mechanic says "get rid of that bakelite crap!" one final thing. would you happen to know where i can find the plastic piece that holds the headlights up? both broke on the passenger side
 

BudW

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would you happen to know where i can find the plastic piece that holds the headlights up? both broke on the passenger side
Can you take a picture of it, please?

act as if its cold outside when it isn't (i take it you know how a not warmed up carbed car is like)
The choke thermostat has a bi-metallic spring in it which opens/closes the choke plate when engine is hot or cold. Over time (~15 years or so) that spring gets rusty and/or wears out to point it doesn't move much. I recommend replacing the choke thermostat every 15 or so years and that (as well as other carburetor adjustments) should make car much more driveable regardless of temp.
Choke Thermostat.jpg

Note: the Carter BBD and Holley 2280/6280 are different and shouldn't be interchanged. They do look similar, though.

my mechanic says "get rid of that bakelite crap!"
The Carter Thermoquad 4-bbl has a black plastic (ie: Bakelite) center, but that has nothing to with the Carter BBD or Holley 2280/6280. I'm not sure I understand what is being said here, maybe.
TQ 22.jpg

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If I hadn't answered all of your questions, you might want to re-phrase them so I can understand what you are asking. I am not sure about some of what you are saying.
BudW
 

Mikes5thAve

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For the headlights I think you mean the anchors the adjuster screws go into. Any parts store should have them or eBay or Amazon or rock auto. Just make sure you get the same style as what's they're now. They're common to a lot of vehicles but there's several types of them.
 

IndieDippy

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sorry to go quiet on all of you. got the carburetor replaced with the one BudW recommended. ran well and quiet. shop says they also replaced a bad EGR valve but this hasn't stopped my clicking and stalling. had the thing stall out on me while i was backing into my spot and had to scream at someone to stop as it was in the middle of the neighborhood. i feel my current woes are down to whatever they did to bypass the electronics.
 

IndieDippy

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found these things unplugged. could be a culprit? just when i thought it was all over. i notice ever since i got her back too, she bucks forward when shifting into drive too. i hope one of you can point me towards fixing this issue. i'm not sure if i wanna go back to the shop so soon

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LEWISEMATKINJR

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I got rid of all the Lean-burn system and went old school--i installed a '70 BBD carter, and a new point-type distributor. When I messed up the front end, I had accumilated over 352,000 on the car.
 
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