Can this be done ?

I

Infiniti Dave

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I'm ready to lower the completed 360 and fresh 727 into my 79 Aspen RT. Has anyone tried to lower them in together ? The Transmission on the jack won't quite clear the rockers , so I'm hoping to find an alternate solution.
 
Yea but if that won't clear putting it in together might not either it needs a pretty big angle.
 
You can do it, I did that with my M-body install...the key here was:
1) crank down the T-bars as low as they'll go w/o compromising the ability of the suspension to hold the weight...this may be a step-at-a-time kind of a thing, meaning: crank 'em very low at first, then as you prepare to actually bolt things up you bring up the T-bar tension so that the added weight of the assembly does not bottom out the suspension

2) use the engine crane adjuster/bar with a tilt, that way you can 'navigate' the engine_trans combo through the front header and floor tunnlet gauntlet

Without that tilter I do not think it would be possible.

These are the pics I took...hard to believe it's been nearly 20 yrs now...holy crapola!!! lol

mopar_engine_trans_install1.png


mopar_engine_trans_install2.png


mopar_engine_trans_install3.png
 
Also considering rolling the trans on the Trans jack under from the front and into the tunnel before putting the engine in place. Maybe a better idea. Haven't decided yet !
 
Trans jack? There's your problem. Use a normal jack. Or we used to slide it under on a skate board or cardboard and then onto the jack once its under.
 
I’ve done it with a 727/440 combo during the initial fitting and mockup. I ended up with an oil pan that had a large sump so I couldn’t drop it in together because of cross member interference but the transmission can go in first with the engine hoist then drop the engine in next.
 
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Kinda thought that would be the plan. Doesn't look like they left us much wiggle room. The core support looks like pretty close quarters.
 
Hello M_Body_Coupe,

Thanks for posting pictures as I was struggling with the same question. I was worried that the combined weight of the engine / transmission would be excessive. However you were using the same engine hoist hardware that I have. I always found those plates that bolt to the carb flange somewhat questionable.

I noticed you didn't install the headers / exhaust manifolds. I assume you were able to squeeze them in with the engine in place?
 
Fresh Air Inspector said:
...I always found those plates that bolt to the carb flange somewhat questionable...
Click to expand...

I actually have one of these as well and contrary to the look it is pretty rigid. The W2 408 stroker install was done with that plate...no complaints!

Fresh Air Inspector said:
...I noticed you didn't install the headers / exhaust manifolds. I assume you were able to squeeze them in with the engine in place?
Click to expand...

Actually, take a look at the 2nd pic and you'll spot low on the driver side the carefully wrapped header flange...lol, yup, I tossed the pipes in there, got them nicely covered to avoid scratches, or at least lower the total count (b/c no matter what I tried I always get a few). This worked surprising well...yeah, still took a little persuasion and a step-at-a-time approach, but overall I would much rather do that then try to toss these in place afterwards. What helped the most here was carefully hanging these in place...so various lengths of strings holding these up into an 'almost installed' position.

The W2 stroker install was a bit tougher in that respect, the TTI pipes I went with are the larger 1-7/8" primary tubes and oh boy, they are big!
 
I'm surprised they aren't forming up at your gates with torches and pitchforks over that orange oil filter.
 
Ele115 said:
I'm surprised they aren't forming up at your gates with torches and pitchforks over that orange oil filter.
Click to expand...
LOL...good point, and yeah that was indeed a FRAM filter that lasted all of an hour or so...literally break-in only.

...hey, that was like 15 yrs. ago...I was young...foolish...didn't know any better alright now???!!!
 
I'm not making fun of you, I am making fun of the internet. They will absolutely melt down over this in some places. Or the "wrong" hose clamps. Or flex tubes etc.
 
Ele115 said:
I'm not making fun of you, I am making fun of the internet. They will absolutely melt down over this in some places. Or the "wrong" hose clamps. Or flex tubes etc.
Click to expand...
LOL...oh yeah, I know, that's why my response was so purposefully over-the-top deffensive!!!

For the record: I'm a WIX filter guy...all our family rides get these, filter quality still seems alright although I am finding some of the synthetic media filters 'out-of-stock' these days (primiarly RockAuto)...
 
A long time ago I was bored and cut them all open. It looked to me like the Wix and Napa gold were identical. The Fram was pretty bad. Paper that just falls apart. Mobil 1 was good. Most were. Baldwins are good. Actually, I would use most of them but the Fram. Never did cut a Purolator open.

I have been tried and found guilty of having the wrong date code on my glove box light wiring harness

Fram Filt2.jpeg
 
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Had an oil filter fully plugged (= no oil pressure!) due to bad design of the flowback valve (it bot only stopped backflow, but also normal forward flow) and it was a K&N. Saw that mess after I opened it up. Also opened up a WIX, completely different design on the flowback valve, this could not happen with a WIX.

Always have a dozen WIXes at the shop. :cool:
 
I just buy the Motorcraft filters they fit my Fords and Mopar. I don’t buy the long lasting synthetic filters anymore I believe in changing the filter half way through the oils life simulator to diesel oil changes.
 
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