Deano
Well-Known Member
I'm going to be buying a carb and I was wondering how I can tell which brand -Holley or Carter- my car has. Lean burn, but it has been converted to electronic ignition.
Carburetors
- Thread starter Deano
- Start date
If the car has the factory installed carburetor on it, it will have:
'76-84 318
2-bbl – Carter BBD (either computer controlled or not)
4-bbl – Carter Thermoquad (TQ) - either computer controlled or not
'85-89 318
318 2-bbl – Holley 6280 (computer controlled).
4-bbl – GM Quadrajet (computer controlled)
The Holley 2280 (non-computer controlled) was used on a few older FMJ's due to supply problems – but not many.
If you live in a non emissions state (or city), a Chrysler design Holley 2280 will fit in place of your Holley 6280 if converting from computer control.
The same goes for replacing a Carter TQ or BBD computer controlled carburetor to a non-computer controlled carburetor without much difficulty (some TQ's have a different fuel line entry point).
A Carter BBD and Holley 2280/6280 can be interchanged but the fuel line needs minor rebending (not much) and a new choke thermostat (different length rods) and 2 vacuum lines are in a different position (depending on what year you are working on). If you have a vacuum diagram for both versions, then you are set.
Another method is to look at the carburetor (which means the air cleaner will need to be removed or at least set aside).
The TQ has an aluminum top and bottom. The middle section is black (plastic). The fuel line attaches to the rear.
The GM QJ is yellowish and fuel line attaches to the front. It will also have an attached electric choke.
The Carter BBD is aluminum (top, middle & bottom) with a yellow metal top plate (without squared corners) on top that looks like this.
The Holly 2280/6280 is also aluminum (top, middle & bottom) with a (yellow, black or white) metal top plate (with square corners) that looks like this.
At first glance, it is not easy to tell the BBD from the 2280/6280 apart.
If yours is computer controlled, there will be a black electrical connector, with six wires, going to the carburetor, with the electrical connector being about three-four inches to the front passenger side corner of the carburetor (and a bracket on carburetor that holds the carburetor side harness down).
If you still not sure which carburetor you have, then a picture would really help.
BudW
'76-84 318
2-bbl – Carter BBD (either computer controlled or not)
4-bbl – Carter Thermoquad (TQ) - either computer controlled or not
'85-89 318
318 2-bbl – Holley 6280 (computer controlled).
4-bbl – GM Quadrajet (computer controlled)
The Holley 2280 (non-computer controlled) was used on a few older FMJ's due to supply problems – but not many.
If you live in a non emissions state (or city), a Chrysler design Holley 2280 will fit in place of your Holley 6280 if converting from computer control.
The same goes for replacing a Carter TQ or BBD computer controlled carburetor to a non-computer controlled carburetor without much difficulty (some TQ's have a different fuel line entry point).
A Carter BBD and Holley 2280/6280 can be interchanged but the fuel line needs minor rebending (not much) and a new choke thermostat (different length rods) and 2 vacuum lines are in a different position (depending on what year you are working on). If you have a vacuum diagram for both versions, then you are set.
Another method is to look at the carburetor (which means the air cleaner will need to be removed or at least set aside).
The TQ has an aluminum top and bottom. The middle section is black (plastic). The fuel line attaches to the rear.
The GM QJ is yellowish and fuel line attaches to the front. It will also have an attached electric choke.
The Carter BBD is aluminum (top, middle & bottom) with a yellow metal top plate (without squared corners) on top that looks like this.
The Holly 2280/6280 is also aluminum (top, middle & bottom) with a (yellow, black or white) metal top plate (with square corners) that looks like this.
At first glance, it is not easy to tell the BBD from the 2280/6280 apart.
If yours is computer controlled, there will be a black electrical connector, with six wires, going to the carburetor, with the electrical connector being about three-four inches to the front passenger side corner of the carburetor (and a bracket on carburetor that holds the carburetor side harness down).
If you still not sure which carburetor you have, then a picture would really help.
BudW
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Canadian cars used 2280 until 1988. Not that it matters unless you're someone with one of those oddball cars.
You are correct, most cars sold outside of United States did use the Holley 2280, as well as many US trucks/vans.
I should have mentioned that a huge majority of FMJ's were sold in United States and used what I mentioned on post #3. I figured sense he lives in KY, the likely hood of him not having US sold car was minimal.
I should have mentioned that a huge majority of FMJ's were sold in United States and used what I mentioned on post #3. I figured sense he lives in KY, the likely hood of him not having US sold car was minimal.
Deano
Well-Known Member
It has a red tag that says "Autoline C-7180 - Remanufactured in Canada", so I'd say it's a replacement.
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Deano
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what this part of the linkage this is? It's not connected to anything.
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Deano
Well-Known Member
Not the kickdown linkage. The one that's circled and arrowed.
Deano
Well-Known Member
Leaning toward this one. The least expensive one at the local parts stores are damn near $100 more than Summit. But I would like to know that I'll be ordering the right one.
1978 CHRYSLER LEBARON Uremco 5-5194 UREMCO Remanufactured Carburetors | Summit Racing
1978 CHRYSLER LEBARON Uremco 5-5194 UREMCO Remanufactured Carburetors | Summit Racing
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Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
It's been a while since i messed with those carbs but a spring is supposed to go from one spot back to the kickdown linkage. The throttle return spring goes to the post that sticks out that goes thru the kick down rod. It's not supposed to hook to the front of it like that. Altho the way the spring is hooked up now is sort of doing both jobs at once.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
it looks like it does have cruise but the cable is hooked to the wrong spot.
Deano
Well-Known Member
Okay. I see now. The return spring is supposed to be connected to the linkage I was questioning.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
I think it goes further back to the next post and the cruise cable connects to that empty bracket like R.W. Said.
That is a Holley 2280 carburetor – but I DO NOT RECOMMEND getting “rebuilt” carburetors (that comes in a box from a parts store). Do a search using BudW and “rebuilt carburetors” for my list of reasons. Getting a carburetor rebuilt by a carburetor shop or by yourself results in much better results.
The unit you have is for “Lean Burn” but is not computer controlled. Sense there is potentially a thousand different possibility's of having this one messed up by the “rebuilder” and I would assume you are experiencing issues now, I would recommend fining another unit that is NOT REBUILT and comes in a box from a parts store.
I would guess your carburetor is about five years (or newer) and it would have replaced a Carter BBD. The choke thermostat looks original. Even if your vehicle is one of the very few that came with a Holley 2280, the choke thermostat is still past its usability and I would also highly recommend its replacement (if original carburetor is a BBD, then choke rod length is not correct to begin with.
Here is now the throttle and cruise linkage should be hooked up.
This is with (engine off) throttle open.
Note: the above pictures are from my '86 Fifth Ave with a new replacement BBD “Chinese knock-off (gasp)” in place of the Holley 6280 – but the throttle linkage is exactly the same.
The correct clip to hold the cruise cable in place is a E-clip:
Not sure what size it is. Over the years, I have lost maybe 100 of those E-clips – so watch out
At idle speed and engine warm, the cruise control make up link (the item marked in picture) should have some play (0.010-0.015”) in the link. Otherwise, the cruise can keep the throttle from completely closing – which can make for a “bad day”.
BudW
The unit you have is for “Lean Burn” but is not computer controlled. Sense there is potentially a thousand different possibility's of having this one messed up by the “rebuilder” and I would assume you are experiencing issues now, I would recommend fining another unit that is NOT REBUILT and comes in a box from a parts store.
I would guess your carburetor is about five years (or newer) and it would have replaced a Carter BBD. The choke thermostat looks original. Even if your vehicle is one of the very few that came with a Holley 2280, the choke thermostat is still past its usability and I would also highly recommend its replacement (if original carburetor is a BBD, then choke rod length is not correct to begin with.
Here is now the throttle and cruise linkage should be hooked up.
This is with (engine off) throttle open.
Note: the above pictures are from my '86 Fifth Ave with a new replacement BBD “Chinese knock-off (gasp)” in place of the Holley 6280 – but the throttle linkage is exactly the same.
The correct clip to hold the cruise cable in place is a E-clip:
Not sure what size it is. Over the years, I have lost maybe 100 of those E-clips – so watch out
At idle speed and engine warm, the cruise control make up link (the item marked in picture) should have some play (0.010-0.015”) in the link. Otherwise, the cruise can keep the throttle from completely closing – which can make for a “bad day”.
BudW
Deano
Well-Known Member
Would you recommend a UREMCO carb? If I get the one I'm looking at, it's on Summit Racing. There's also United Carb from Advanced Auto, Tomco from O'Reilly's, and National Reman and Autoline from Autozone. The only difference (to me) between these and the one from Summit is around $100.
Mikes5thAve
Well-Known Member
Rebuilt carbs are hit and miss. Get it locally if you can so it'll be less hassle if you need to exchange it.
My good Thermoquad is an autoline rebuild. They've been around for decades.
My good Thermoquad is an autoline rebuild. They've been around for decades.
