Carburetors

[BudW]

IF I was going to purchase a carburetor, I would get this (or similar): Premium Carburetor Type Carter BBD High Top For DODGE 273 318 5.2L V8 1972-1985 | eBay
This is the new Chinese knock-off I was talking about. I have purchased two and been happy with both – BUT, before installing, you do need to take it apart and make sure all of the settings are correct (Float height, choke plate settings and so forth). It is not too difficult to do. They seam to be well made (to China standards) but the adjustable settings (which is what makes or breaks ANY carburetor rebuild) is where they are lax at (to non-existent).

If you have access to a FSM (Factory Service Manual), it can be done with a few hand tools and a decent drill bit set, in about 30ish minutes.

To be honest, I would adjust ANY carburetor (new, rebuilt, reman or used) before installing it, for those (what appears to be) minor adjustments DO make a huge difference.

If you want to pay for the extra freight, have it sent to me. I will get it exactly into adjustment and ship it back to you. One nice thing about a new or rebuilt carburetor – is there is no odor. (My wife makes me sleep outside when I get carburetor cleaner on me . . .)

If you find a possible new unit, let me see the ad before purchasing - just to make sure you are getting the correct one.
BudW

 

[Deano]

BudW, you said to let you see the ad for the one I'm looking at.
1978 CHRYSLER LEBARON Uremco 5-5194 UREMCO Remanufactured Carburetors | Summit Racing

 

[BudW]

I am not a fan of the Holley 2280/6280 – but rebuilt enough BBD's and 2280's to last me a lifetime. I think the BBD is a better choice – but not going to get in the way of your decision. Whichever one you choose, I would recommend getting a new choke thermostat, as well.


Next, I'm going to try real hard to get you to avoid any rebuilt/reman carburetor that comes in a box, from any parts store. The return rate is always very high on those items and the main reason is grossly mis-matched parts. I have been to places that “rebuilds” them (do a search for rebuilt and BudW for more details). Before I put down any money, ask Summit (or do a Google search) for return rate on that brand carburetor and it might surprise you.
Reman starters, alternators, engines, transmissions are one thing – but carburetors are too “tuned” to a specific engine, year, etc. and are so mismatched after rebuilding that I'm not surprised the return rate is not closer to 100%.

At least with a new unit, it will have all of the correct parts in it.

Chrysler used about 10-12 different jet sizes in the BBD (Carter made more sizes and also sold BBD's to other automakers). Sometimes it used a different jet size on left vs right sides. A rebuilder just grabs a pair of jets, out of a bin, to install into the next carb coming down the track and doesn't even look at sizes or anything.

The BBD (or limited number of 2280) used for /6 has about a 10% part interchange with the BBD used for same year 318's. I can tell a /6 BBD a mile away because of the hole drilled into the choke plate (a /6 only item). The base is different, the body is different as well as the tops are different – but they all use the same gaskets (for same year BBD) between /6 and 318. You can bolt a /6 BBD (or 2280) onto a 318 (or vice versa) – but it won't run well. I don't think the rebuilders care which parts go back into a unit.

BudW

 

[Mikes5thAve]

It seems to be a risk no matter what you do. I've heard a lot of bad things about the Chinese carbs and quality issues in the castings but at the same time on top of the reasons Bud said about rebuilds look at how shitty some of the core parts are that people send back and the newest bbd is 37 years old so who knows what kind of wear they have or whats been done to them over that time. My bbd is s rebuild from Holley that never had problems but I've gotten ones from them that didn't look good without even opening them up.

 

[Deano]

Should I just stay with the old one and keep a bottle of gasoline with me at all times so I can prime it? Lol

Anyways, Does it really matter which -Holley or Carter BBD- I purchase? Will either one bolt up to my intake and hopefully perform as it should?

Like I've said; this car will not be a racer. All I want is a reliable cruiser to drive to car shows, nostalgia drags, and just a "going to town" rig. Just get in and go.

 

[BudW]

What is the old one doing (or not doing), specifically?

 

[Deano]

I have to prime it before it even begins to start. Let it sit for an hour or 3, go back to start it again, it's fine. But let it sit for a day or so, prime time.

 

[Camtron]

Can you hear or smell the fuel boiling in the carb when you park after a decent drive? If not, a gasket/rebuild kit might take care of it.

 

[Deano]

It's not registered or insured at the moment, so I've only driven it up and down my 550' driveway. When the car is cold, there's no squirter action when I work the throttle.

 

[BudW]

The fuel is evaporating out of carburetor.

Part of the reason for having a solenoid to control the fuel vapors, actually has a side benefit of keeping the gasoline from evaporating to begin with. Having a charcoal canister attached to the fuel vapor vent helps, as well. Not having anything to keep the fuel vapors at check is part of the problem.

Having the fuel level set too low (inside carburetor) might also be the issue.

Next item would be a possible fuel hose/line leak. You should have a three-nipple fuel filter (under the alternator). The filter should have two nipples at 5/16” and a ¼” return hose (going back to the tank).

Some people like to replace the three nipple filter with a two nipple fuel filter – which can be fine if you don't experience any vapor lock issues (a big issue for places like Texas, Arizona or Florida, or not so much a problem in Canada). The metal fuel lines have a rubber hose at each connection (by tank, by pump, by fuel filter and the hidden hoses under passenger side firewall). Those hoses have a tendency to crack and leak. Leaking fuel is not a common issue, but leaking air is common. The fuel pump can suck air a lot easier than it can fuel. If the fuel return hose is cracked/leaking, then the fuel pump has to re-fill that hose, before fuel can get to the carburetor – which is a common problem I see on our cars. Rusty fuel lines can also be a problem.
These fuel lines are from a '84 Gran Fury. I removed them so I can make replacements out of stainless and maybe also in 3/8”.

The third metal fuel line is fuel vapor from fuel tank to charcoal canister.

The last thing I see is engine is running hot and the fuel is percolating out after turn-off. I have this problem with my '86 Fifth Ave. If I restart after three or four hours then car starts right up or after a short trip. It will not start up right away if car sits overnight after a longer drive. I've checked and in this case, the carburetor fuel bowl is empty, as well as about ½ of the fuel line coming from the fuel pump. The only good fix for it is to install a low pressure electric fuel pump (six, or less, PSI) in series or in place of the mechanical fuel pump.
This is not high on my list of things to do, because I will be installing a high pressure fuel pump in the car (to run the fuel injected big block) in the near future.
BudW

 

[BudW]

Can you hear or smell the fuel boiling in the carb when you park after a decent drive? If not, a gasket/rebuild kit might take care of it.

The price of a carb kit, new filter and a couple feet of new fuel hoses (and a new choke thermostat) might be all you need (plus taking the time to make sure the carburetor adjustments are set correctly).

In most cases, it is hard to hear fuel percolating. The exhaust shrinking (cooling) and coolant continuing to circulate (convection) after turn off usually hides it and some cases, it makes no noise.

 

[Deano]

I did remove the fuel line at the carb and expected to be cleaning up gas, but not a drop came out. I've replaced the rubber line from the hard line to the pump, from pump to the filter, and from the filter to the hard line to the carb. I had to read that two or three times to make sure it sounded right and I'm still not sure if it does.

My car does have charcoal canister. The choke works the way it should. But I haven't replaced the filter yet.

 

[BudW]

It does to me.

You will have rubber hoses at three areas under the car (marked in green (by engine), yellow (by fuel tank) and red (under passenger side firewall/floorboard).
If you have two metal lines, one will be 5/16" (main fuel line) and 3/16" (fuel vapor (from tank) to charcoal canister).
If you have three metal lines, then the third will be 1/4" (fuel return line).

The fuel vapor hose is not critical.
The other hose (or hoses) is a bigger issue. If cracked, they will leak air and as that worsens, will leak fuel out.

I have seen these metal lines rust out which will also leak air (and fuel).

Fuel lines/hoses should be devoid of any air for best driveability.
BudW

 

[Deano]

One more question. I purchased and installed a Carter BBD. Now all I need to do is get the choke situated. I'm ordering a new choke thermostat and I need to find out what and where the wiring connects to. It shows in my ESM that it connects to the electric choke control and then to the bowl vent solenoid. Does a BBD even have a bowl vent? The wire from the old choke thermostat went to the right terminal in the picture. The terminal on the left didn't have anything connected to it.

 

[69-]

The other side of the resistor-switch should be Ignition, if I remeber correct (dont have the FSM at hand). If it is not connected to anything, you wouldn't need it at all.
It supports the choke opening faster.

Not sure about the bowl vent out of my head.

 

[BudW]

Item pictured is the item that turns off the thermostat heater. One terminal (either) is where the choke heater is connected too. The other side is switched on when engine is on and generally is connected to a dark blue wire with a single wire connector. If that pigtail is cut off/missing/relocated, then a person can find the ballast resistor and tap into the dark blue wire there (battery voltage side, not the 9 volt side) to power the choke heater.

Note: there are four different versions of the choke heater switch. some that are round (with or without the resistor) and those that have a rectangular porcelain block (with or without a resistor). which version you use is not that important as it is you are using the electric choke heater.

The round switch, it doesn't matter to which side the choke is connected to. The rectangular switch, it is marked as to which side the choke is connected to.

I hope this helps.
BudW

 

[BudW]

Does a BBD even have a bowl vent?

Some do, others do not. If yours does, there will be a solenoid (and a wire) on the top side of carburetor. Either version will have a hose leading to the charcoal canister (passenger side front corner of engine compartment).

No Bowl Vent (to charcoal canister)

With (non computer controlled) bowl vent:

With bowl vent solenoid

I hope this helps.
BudW

 

[Deano]

Mine is the non computer controlled bowl vent. That port goes to the charcoal canister port on the outside and the port on the bottom front of the carb goes to the port on the inside? The only one left (center port) goes back to the tank. Since I don't have the LB hooked up, this vacuum port (green arrow) connects to the vacuum advance on the distributor, correct?

 

[BudW]

Yes!

 

[Deano]

Good to hear! Thank you all for your help. Couldn't have done it without you!

Insurance and registration and she's ready to go!!