Disk brake conversions

Camtron

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I ran of room for pictures on above post.

This is a picture of how factory setup the Liberty rear disk brakes. There is a pair of hoses between the calipers and metal brake lines. A few people ran hard lines to the calipers. I don’t have a problem with that, but it does make changing brake pads (or other differential work) more difficult in the future. If the hoses are left in place, then brake pad replacement is pretty easy. Bending the brake lines on a hard-line attachment and back again is a no-no.
View attachment 37960

View attachment 37961
Note: Chrysler axles have a hole drilled into them to allow a person to access the nuts using a socket wrench (or impact).
BudW
Man, that is great information to have! Thanks BudW, greatly appreciated
 

Kernel Sanders

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AWESOME write-up BudW!!!

Thank you very much! I think I will be looking for the Liberty setup as there seem to be many showing up at my local pick'n pull lately

I think this should be made a sticky for sure.
 

BudW

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On my "to do" list is to make a new post, expand in some areas and clarify more in other areas then make it a sticky.
BudW
 

SixBanger

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I lean against the Jeep setup. Most parts can be bought new.

But can't good set of backing plates. I would try looking second hand ones like this site:

Search Results

Does anyone have experience with this?
 

SixBanger

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Okay great old440 ;0

I think the setup also need a brake proportioning valve for lowering line pressure for rear brake. I can see that drums takes more pressure for same braking force (or rear would block early than front). for more 70-30% or 60-40 F/R braking force difference.
For a daily used car this should be a must upgrade.
 

BudW

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Reading from the FABO forums, there might be a Ford park brake cable that might be a “bolt-on” to make park brakes a bit easier.
It also sounds like the Ford 8.8 rear disk brake setup is almost identical to the Liberty setup (for those planning on using the Ford 8.8 differential). Some say the parking brake setup is made by the same manufacture for Ford/Jeep (I didn’t verify that fact, just hear say).

There is a Pull-a-Part close to me that, the last time I looked, has a few dozen Liberty’s – just begging to have the plates removed. If I can escape my wife’s honey-do’s, I was planning on picking up a few sets more than what I’ll use. The last few months, my wife has been able to catch me faster than I can get out of the house on weekends (sigh).
BudW
 

SixBanger

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Every now and then I also stroll around the local car wreck. They call it 'the vegetable garden', I have seen a lot grow but no vegetables. Just to look around for maybe useful stuff to work around. Recently I picked up a radiator fan from a TDI VW golf 3. Two speed option and solid bosch engine. Build up cooling for the next project with an ssd relay.
 

SixBanger

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Do not want to take over this thread.

But I have found a set of jeep Backing plates. Seems to be the right one. Sold from Canada.

IMG_20191128_103337.jpg
 

SixBanger

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If someone is interested in total Jeep kit (not sure if dana or 8.25" kit) : Teraflex 4354410 Rear Disc Brake Kit for 84-91 Jeep Cherokee XJ & Wrangler YJ

A install manual for some guideline help. https://www.quadratec.com/sites/default/files/installation_instructions/30018.pdf




Looking for a set parking brake cable. For example a F body (sedan) and a set of jeep cables.

It should be almost possible to convert the jeep cable to connect to the original F one on the car.

F body cable length (left side) 31.562". 23.375" housing. End type connection: barrel/different barrel.

volare left.PNG


F body cable length (right side) 64.75". 24.62" housing. End type connection: barrel/barrel.

volare right.PNG



Jeep Liberty 2005 cable length (Left side) 78.8". End type connection: loop/barrel.
jeep right.PNG


Thinking. Get 2 liberty ones. For right cable cut them to cable length. Strip housing to original housing length. And add a throttle cable repair barrel (like to fix a throttle cable), and solder them to cable.
Same for left side but maybe reus the original connection of the old cable.


ll.PNG
 

kkritsilas

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I thought the idea behind the Jeep Liberty rear end swap was not only for the disk brakes, but also because it had better gear ratios and a limited slip. I would think that a complete rear end from a Liberty would be cheaper than getting a ring and pinion, limited slip, and disks for the rear piecemeal.
 

BudW

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The '76 to mid-year '80 FMJ differentials are 58½” wide (wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface).
The mid-year '80 to '89 FMJ differentials are 59½” wide (wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface).
The '02-07 KJ (Liberty) differentials are 63-3/8” (63.375”) wide (wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface), which is either 2” or 2½” wider per side (depending on year FMJ one is working on). This is a measurement that I performed, with this differential being a possible solution. If a person selected wheels with a bit of offset to them, this differential is very doable as far as width goes.

A few differences with the '02-07 Liberty differential:
- There are no leaf spring perches. This differential uses coil springs – but there is no problem with cutting off the coil spring hardware (white arrows, below), getting a pair of 3” tube spring perches and getting them welded on. AllStar Weld On Leaf Spring Perch Pad 3" Axle Housing For Ford Chevy Mopar | eBay is one source (and there are many other source for parts out there).
Spring Perch.jpg

Note: pictures were swiped from the internet.
Liberty Rear Diff.jpg


- The yoke will be different (blue arrow, above). All Chrysler made (North America) differential yokes made 1970 to present will interchange (with exception of Dana 70/80 (HD Truck) differentials).
FMJ yoke (29 spline 7260 U-joint
7260 29 yoke.jpg


Liberty yoke
5085912ab Yoke.jpg

Companion flange
68041746aa Prop Shaft Flange.jpg


Mercedes design (300/Charger/Challenger) – which uses a rubber U-joint!
MB Yoke.jpg

983_SK935601.jpg

I'm not recommending anyone to change to the Mercedes design for the rubber will crack and fail in about 10 years, just like tires do/will (if car is driven, or not). I just used this as an example to show this yoke will fit onto your FMJ, if you had a desire to install one.

If a person is having a new propeller shaft made or old one modified (replacing a 7¼” with an 8¼”, then using the newer design flange type yoke makes some sense.
I've heard the U-joint distance is the same – but have no first hand knowledge of this (using existing FMJ propeller shaft/joint/yoke vs. using existing FMJ propeller shaft/joint and using new style flat yoke/companion flange – if replacing existing 8¼” with a Liberty 8¼”).

- The Liberty differential has the machined surface for but is not drilled/tapped for using the pinion snubber (red arrow, above). This might not matter for a /6 or a 318 2-bbl driver, but is more important for those with more HP (now or later) than that.

- This is not a major concern for those not performing repairs to the Liberty differential, but might be. Most of the internal parts are the same with an FMJ 8¼” except for axle shaft length and axle shaft spline/spider gear spline count. The '68-95 8¼” use 27 spline axle shafts and '97 up 8¼” use 29 spline axle shafts/spider gears. The differential carriers (Limited Slip, or not) makes a difference so '96 (mid-year change) is where the change is made.

The (rear, not 4*4 front) differential gear sets will interchange from '68 to present.
I'm not opposed to using the Liberty 8¼”, just as long as you keep the above in mind. As time permits, I'm still measuring other (newer) Chrysler/Jeeps for other possibilities.

The rear disk brake setup will bolt right on FMJ's (except for early 7¼'s – which require a bit of modification, first). The differential gear sets will also bolt on to existing 8¼'s. The newer carriers (Limited Slip) – not so much, but the '96 and older ones will. I would guess that maybe 1 of 5 Liberty's have limited slip (which is only a guess)
BudW
 
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