Diving in.

[slant6billy]

OK, more mystery. This was a lean burn ignition car you have. If the factory aircleaner was there, it would have the lean burn computer mounted on it. I am going to guess that someone before you eliminated it. Sounds like it still has the leanburn distributor, possible or a non- vac advance one. It will run, but depending on the set timing, who knows where your power band is? If it does not stall off the line or breakup at high RPM / highway then it may be something else, like a china distributor or Pertronix. Again, you have to do some searching. Get a timing light and see where your timing is at? Somebody set this car up, but what for? My 79 was set up similar, with a locked distributor and half wired ignition.

 

[BudW]

Several items to talk about.

Most answers depend on what your plans are for the car (short term and long term). You mentioned a dependable daily driver.
About how many miles a day (or days a week)? Mostly city or highway driving?

Also, I need to know about your state emissions laws.
I “think” they are not applicable in Florida, but would like to know for sure before I say much.

1. Getting the kickdown operation on transmission needs to be top priority. Driving it without it working WILL cause a quick death to your existing transmission. Sense intake height has been changed, a cable system would be my first recommendation (much like others here has mentioned).

2. The throttle cable stand (driver’s side rear of intake) needs to have throttle cable about level with the carburetor stud. Right now it is a bit low.
Matter of fact, the cable is currently using the hole reserved for cruise control (which is currently disconnected). Changing this bracket out at same time as transmission cable install might be a good idea.
http://www.manciniracing.com/man318360en.html

3. On that note, the 2-bbl (99%+ 5th Ave’s with 318’s were 2-bbls) throttle cable is a bit too short to run with a 4-bbl, without risk of throttle getting stuck open (not a good thing).
I highly recommend getting the longer 4-bbl throttle cable at same time.
’76-89 FMJ 318 2-bbl Pioneer CA-8414 (19.73”) – which is what you should have.
Pioneer CA-8416 (20.00”)
Pioneer CA-8420 (20.67”)
I can’t see the throttle cable to see how tight it is, but engine will rotate towards passenger side which pulls on the cable (which makes it stick open).

4. The cruise control cable appears to be dangling in the rear of engine. If you plan on using cruise control, then it will go into top slot and will need a couple of pieces missing from the old carburetor. If you don’t plan on using cruise control, then its throttle control cable can be removed. The cruise servo can also be removed - but you will need to replace the speedometer cable first.

5. The cylinder heads and intake are nice pieces and may work out great for you, but there are some things that need attention first. PCV and mechanical/vacuum advance distributer.

The vacuum hose port the brake booster is currently running to was designed for PCV valve. PCV valve will help with oil leaks (by creating a vacuum inside of engine).

The brake booster hose connects to a vacuum tree at rear of intake which looks something like this.

or

A PCV valve hole can be cut into one of your valve covers – but it works best when you have a breather on one side and the PCV valve on the other. Your car originally came with breather on passenger side and PCV valve on drivers side – but I don’t think it matters much which side is which.

There may be a grommet available that you can switch out with the breather grommet with, maybe.

6. I would like to get photos of both inner fenders – as to what components are located on them – so we can advise on what to do about your ignition system. For engine to run even halfway decent, you will both vacuum advance as well as mechanical advance. I suspect you currently have neither. Another distributer (only) might fix that – but we need to see what you have, first.

7. Small block rocker arms are pretty tough – but they do fail occasionally – in the location shown in your picture. There is a Left and a Right

Left 4448993 (MSRP is $25.16 (US) from Dodge)
Right 4448994 (MSRP is $24.99 (US) from Dodge)
Pushrod 4483721 (MSRP is $12.67 (US) from Dodge) – if you have roller lifters, which you should have.
Prices are as of today (May 2, 2017).

There are some valve cover gaskets out there which are re-useable and highly recommended to use:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93050/overview/make/chrysler
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5249581/overview/make/chrysler
By the way, the last one is Dodge part number P5249581AB (MSRP is $68.00 (US) from dodge).
I thought Fel-Pro made a pair as well, but I didn’t find it (maybe I looked too hard . . .). A person can use cork gaskets, but the pair listed above are SO MUCH better and are reusable.

8. I would like to see a picture, from above, to the area just behind the A/C compressor and to the passenger side of the radiator hose.
This would tell me what is needed to fix the radiator hose issue and heater system.
From the picture, it looks like the upper radiator hose is kinked – which is not good.

Reusing the old thermostat housing should have fixed the radiator hose situation – but I’m sure you didn’t get any of the old parts.

9. The missing fan belt drives the A.I.R. pump (smog pump) which is also missing.
If you live in a state that has no emissions laws, then you are good. I happen to live in one, so I tossed mine. Other members here, are not so fortunate.

The camshaft, air cleaner and A/C we can talk about after you got the car running better.
BudW

 

[jasperjacko]

I would replace all the rockers and pushrods.

 

[Knothead]

Several items to talk about.

Most answers depend on what your plans are for the car (short term and long term). You mentioned a dependable daily driver.
About how many miles a day (or days a week)? Mostly city or highway driving?

Also, I need to know about your state emissions laws.
I “think” they are not applicable in Florida, but would like to know for sure before I say much.

1. Getting the kickdown operation on transmission needs to be top priority. Driving it without it working WILL cause a quick death to your existing transmission. Sense intake height has been changed, a cable system would be my first recommendation (much like others here has mentioned).

2. The throttle cable stand (driver’s side rear of intake) needs to have throttle cable about level with the carburetor stud. Right now it is a bit low.
Matter of fact, the cable is currently using the hole reserved for cruise control (which is currently disconnected). Changing this bracket out at same time as transmission cable install might be a good idea.
http://www.manciniracing.com/man318360en.html

3. On that note, the 2-bbl (99%+ 5th Ave’s with 318’s were 2-bbls) throttle cable is a bit too short to run with a 4-bbl, without risk of throttle getting stuck open (not a good thing).
I highly recommend getting the longer 4-bbl throttle cable at same time.
’76-89 FMJ 318 2-bbl Pioneer CA-8414 (19.73”) – which is what you should have.
Pioneer CA-8416 (20.00”)
Pioneer CA-8420 (20.67”)
I can’t see the throttle cable to see how tight it is, but engine will rotate towards passenger side which pulls on the cable (which makes it stick open).

4. The cruise control cable appears to be dangling in the rear of engine. If you plan on using cruise control, then it will go into top slot and will need a couple of pieces missing from the old carburetor. If you don’t plan on using cruise control, then its throttle control cable can be removed. The cruise servo can also be removed - but you will need to replace the speedometer cable first.

5. The cylinder heads and intake are nice pieces and may work out great for you, but there are some things that need attention first. PCV and mechanical/vacuum advance distributer.

The vacuum hose port the brake booster is currently running to was designed for PCV valve. PCV valve will help with oil leaks (by creating a vacuum inside of engine).

The brake booster hose connects to a vacuum tree at rear of intake which looks something like this.
View attachment 19899
or
View attachment 19900

A PCV valve hole can be cut into one of your valve covers – but it works best when you have a breather on one side and the PCV valve on the other. Your car originally came with breather on passenger side and PCV valve on drivers side – but I don’t think it matters much which side is which.

There may be a grommet available that you can switch out with the breather grommet with, maybe.

6. I would like to get photos of both inner fenders – as to what components are located on them – so we can advise on what to do about your ignition system. For engine to run even halfway decent, you will both vacuum advance as well as mechanical advance. I suspect you currently have neither. Another distributer (only) might fix that – but we need to see what you have, first.

7. Small block rocker arms are pretty tough – but they do fail occasionally – in the location shown in your picture. There is a Left and a Right
View attachment 19901
View attachment 19902
Left 4448993 (MSRP is $25.16 (US) from Dodge)
Right 4448994 (MSRP is $24.99 (US) from Dodge)
Pushrod 4483721 (MSRP is $12.67 (US) from Dodge) – if you have roller lifters, which you should have.
Prices are as of today (May 2, 2017).

There are some valve cover gaskets out there which are re-useable and highly recommended to use:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93050/overview/make/chrysler
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5249581/overview/make/chrysler
By the way, the last one is Dodge part number P5249581AB (MSRP is $68.00 (US) from dodge).
I thought Fel-Pro made a pair as well, but I didn’t find it (maybe I looked too hard . . .). A person can use cork gaskets, but the pair listed above are SO MUCH better and are reusable.

8. I would like to see a picture, from above, to the area just behind the A/C compressor and to the passenger side of the radiator hose.
This would tell me what is needed to fix the radiator hose issue and heater system.
From the picture, it looks like the upper radiator hose is kinked – which is not good.

Reusing the old thermostat housing should have fixed the radiator hose situation – but I’m sure you didn’t get any of the old parts.

9. The missing fan belt drives the A.I.R. pump (smog pump) which is also missing.
If you live in a state that has no emissions laws, then you are good. I happen to live in one, so I tossed mine. Other members here, are not so fortunate.

The camshaft, air cleaner and A/C we can talk about after you got the car running better.
BudW

Wow, lots of good info here. Thank you. I will get you the pictures that you requested as soon as possible. Life is currently interfering with any plans I have to work on the car, but I should be able to get back to it by early next week. Thank you again for taking the time to answer my questions. My goals for the car are to have reliable transport to work and back, approximately 50 miles a day (90 percent highway), with reasonably decent fuel economy but maintaining enough power to pass the errant Prius hogging the left lane. I truly appreciate your input.

 

[BudW]

Have you ever rolled down the car window and stuck your hand out the window going highway speeds?
If you are not expecting it, it will toss your hand back.

Back in the mid ‘70’s, the factory’s figured out capturing that high pressure air, helps fuel mileage (about 1-2 MPG on highway) and helps with performance by using that high pressure cooler air (which is cooler than under-hood air).

For mostly city driving, you will not notice a thing. On the highway, you can tell the difference.

I would recommend replacing the chrome air cleaner with a factory style one, like pictured.

This one is a 2-bbl version. You would need a 4-bbl version.

I have a feeling the inner fender ductwork is still in place, by the battery (red arrow).

Item 2.

The white arrow is the heat stove and black arrow is paper/metal flex hose connecting air cleaner to stove.
If you live in mid Florida, you will not need either of these two items (unless you plan on driving North during winter time, for some reason).

There is usually one (or more) on eBay for sale to show for examples – but none when I looked, just now.
The air cleaner can wait - until things re running well, first.


The next thing to do is to see what your emission laws are there – to make sure car passes (if applicable).
BudW