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what body style is a 79 dodge st regis?
so I am looking at one for sale with the express intent of selling parts. looks like I am without a forum to do so. Mostly my interests are in A bodies and I belong to that forum. but what I'm trying to gauge is the demand for St Regis parts and if anyone here would mind if I sell parts from that car on FMJ.
You might have the parts for a long long time.
The only thing I've ever known on those cars that is desirable is the caliper brackets are for 11.75" rotors and work on F/J/M cars. Some R bodies did have 400 big blocks in them and that is a popular block for stroker motors.
this is a 79, 318.
No R body ever had a B or RB engine from the factory. R bodies were 79-81, therefore, LA and Leaning tower of power were the only factory offerings. The E58 was the king of the hill then.
I believe 78 was the last year for a big block in any car.
The R-body dash is similar to a J-body (not the same, but similar). The rest of the car is very close to that of ’75-79 B-body. For most questions or looking for parts, you might join for B bodies only' web site (a sister site to this one) at https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/widget-pages/home/
The suspension, drivetrain and overall “core” of your R-body is identical to ’75-79 B-body’s. The sheet metal is R-body only. Some components will work on FMJ’s, but only a small percentage.
I think the above website would be a better place for you (not that you are not welcome here).
thanks BudW, I appreciate your input.
do you know if there are any Plymouth, Chrysler or Imperial r models of that year?
Plymouth Gran Fury, Chrysler Newport, Chrysler New Yorker.
Depending on the bar numbers and the price I may be interested in the torsion bars and perhaps the large caliper adapters (if so equipped with the slider type for 11.75 disks)
And yes 73-79 B suspension will be similar
I have not bought this car yet. it may be a while, I have no space.
Back in the 80s and 90s I had a shop three blocks from a Dodge dealership and worked on many Dodges but I only had one customer with one of these. We fixed it several times in a five year period but I don't remember ever seeing another one. After seeing the production numbers I understand why.
honestly this one is in a junkyard and looks like it would run and drive. this would be the 4th car I have bought from this yard.
My mom got a ’79 (or ’80) New Yorker back when the R-bodies first came out.
I do know you do want to avoid having the car towed from the rear (via tow truck). Either tow from front or by flat bed. The rear frame rails are not that strong (for towing) and it creases/wrinkles both rear quarter panels just above the rear wheels – which is very noticeable.
As mentioned above, they only made 4 versions of the car: The Dodge St. Regis, Chrysler Newport / New Yorker (the New Yorker is the top of the line R-body) and Plymouth Gran Fury. Most of the Gran Fury’s in my neck of the woods went to taxi’s and to police. Some might say the Gran Fury was low end of the scale – but that might just be my observation (only).
The dash and outer sheet metal are about the only difference from the earlier B-body’s and in my opinion (IMO), I never did figure out why they didn’t keep the “B-body” designation.
Other than the fact, not many R-bodies were made – there is nothing wrong with the car (well, until someone tries to tow it from the rear).
I had a friend in college who had a white one with a bad engine. He dropped in a late ‘60’s 440 in the car and he had a blast with it. The car didn’t look like a street terror . . . until he started it and you knew something was amis.
Getting back to your original question, I don’t think the forum owner will mind you selling parts here – but sense the car is so similar to a B-body, I think you would have more success selling parts at the FBBO site.
The 11¾” brake caliper brackets/brake rotors are sought out (inexpensive brake upgrade for FMJ’s and older ABE cars. The spindles, door handles(?) and most electrical components (except for wiring harness, gauges, lights and fuel sender) are about the only “popular” items that would fit onto an FMJ.
yes the caliper brackets but rotors can be had new at rock auto for under $40 a pop. I might just pull the parts I can sell and leave the rest behind. problem is that its not in that bad of shape real restorable but not collectible. I hate laying waste to good mopar iron.
In reality just pulling the break parts and leaving the rest would make the most sense.
As an added note check out the rear breaks also, more than likely it has 11" drums and worth retrieving the assemblys.
There is two (or three) people making repop caliper brackets (but not from https://www.rockauto.com ). That year, the calipers are the same as FMJ’s, but brackets are about 3/8” taller (for the ¾” wider rotor).
Also, the mounting bolts are also longer – so if grabbing the brackets, keep the bolts and keep ‘em together. Those longer bolts are a non-popular size and can’t be obtained from a hardware store and haven’t been available from Dodge for decades.
With that said, there two different version of B/R calipers/caliper brackets. The pin type and slider type. The slider type is what FMJ’s like because the caliper is the same and makes for a quick clean swap. The pin type calipers require different hoses (none of which easily fits an FMJ) and is lot more work to fit onto an FMJ (more suited for older A, B and E-body cars).
For the cost and for the importance of brakes working when you really really need them to work – I wouldn’t reuse a 40 year old brake rotor.
The spindles are a popular item that will always be in need (curb damage, not keeping wheel bearings repacked with grease timely, etc.) so if able, I would grab both spindles and do something to keep the greasy side from rusting on you.
If it has 10” rear brake drums, I wouldn’t spend any time on them.
If vehicle has 11” rear brake drums, then yes grab ‘em. If not to use, then they are worth your time to sell online.
It does require removing the differential cover and cross pin to remove the C-clips. Then both axles will pull out. Then remove the 5 nuts per side, brake lines and parking brake cables (which is easier to disconnect cables at frame). Keep the drums/backing plates/brake shoes/hardware all together.
If car has 11” drum brakes, it might also have a 9¼” differential – which some people like to grab (considered to be a poor mans Dana-60). It won’t fit an FMJ without modification but does fit most newer B and C-bodies as is. Get some axles made, shorten the width of differential and move spring perches over a bit, it will fit right into an FMJ and might be last differential repair you might ever perform. Chrysler is still making parts for them (used in full size pickups).
An 8¼” differential cover is oval shaped and uses 10 bolts to attach it.
The 9¼” differential cover is square shaped and has 12 bolts to attach it.
It sounds like I might just drive the car a few years until something happens to it, then sell off parts - but I guess that depends if you have space.
BudW you are awesome.