AJ/FormS
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2016
- Messages
- 1,292
- Reaction score
- 306
badaboom!
But your not done yet! you still have a few more checks.
A) The whistle, altho extremely unlikely, could be caused by a broken or defective fitting between the vacuum supply line and the booster; that black plastic thingy or
B) It could be that your control valve inside the booster is not fully seated. The diagnosis for this is in three parts, with a retest after each one;
1) check to to make sure the brake pedal is stopping all the way up against it's stop and NOT hanging up on the brake switch. If hung up, fix it.
2) loosen the bolts that hold the booster to the firewall, and, with the engine running, just pull the booster towards the radiator no more that .25 inch.
If the whistling continues, the booster is boofed. But
3) If the whistling stops, shorten the pushrod about 1/16 inch, reassemble everything, then retest.
If the whistling stops, yur done. But
If the whistling continues; then replace the booster.
But your not done yet! you still have a few more checks.
A) The whistle, altho extremely unlikely, could be caused by a broken or defective fitting between the vacuum supply line and the booster; that black plastic thingy or
B) It could be that your control valve inside the booster is not fully seated. The diagnosis for this is in three parts, with a retest after each one;
1) check to to make sure the brake pedal is stopping all the way up against it's stop and NOT hanging up on the brake switch. If hung up, fix it.
2) loosen the bolts that hold the booster to the firewall, and, with the engine running, just pull the booster towards the radiator no more that .25 inch.
If the whistling continues, the booster is boofed. But
3) If the whistling stops, shorten the pushrod about 1/16 inch, reassemble everything, then retest.
If the whistling stops, yur done. But
If the whistling continues; then replace the booster.