F-body race suspension ?'s

[Locomotion]

There may be an F-body race car in my future so I had a few questions about them.

Does anyone have any close-up pics of the front leaf spring hangars on an F-body? I was wondering if the spring mounting location is on-center relative to the 4 mounting studs or if it's offset a bit.

Do Cal-Trac users have to use the SS spring extensions with the set-up or are Cal-Tracs now available with longer front leaf segments to match the OEM length?

Are F-body disc brake spindle bearings the same as '73+ A-body? In other words, will just brakes/rotors swap over? I believe I did hear that the geometry is a bit different, but just wondering about brake interchangability.

Thanks for any info.

Myron

 

[Mr.Lopar]

Not sure about calipers, but rotors are the same. I ordered rotors for a 85 diplomat for my dart at a local parts store, figured if I said 74 the Morton behind the counter would of said they don't have parts for something that old

 

[badvert65]

The front spring bolt is close to if not in line with the lower row of bracket mounting studs. When I removed the iso-clamp mess from my 79 Volare, I reversed the front hangers (redrilled the holes) to bring it back down to normal ride height (I gained over an inch when I removed the iso-clamp pads).

 

[Locomotion]

The front spring bolt is close to if not in line with the lower row of bracket mounting studs. When I removed the iso-clamp mess from my 79 Volare, I reversed the front hangers (redrilled the holes) to bring it back down to normal ride height (I gained over an inch when I removed the iso-clamp pads).

Ok. Although that wasn't exactly what I was looking for, it's useful info as well!
The offset I was wondering about was side-to-side. When you "reversed" the front hangers, did you flip them in the original locations and/or swap them side-to-side? I was wondering if swapping them from side-to-side would change the centerline of the spring mount inboard or outboard. In other words, is the spring centerline centered between the front spring mount studs or offset?

Thanks

 

[badvert65]

The spring is centered in the bracket (no offset). I don't believe there is more than 1/4 to 1/2 inch between the bracket and the frame. I don't think any of the spring hangers were offset from the factory. Direct Connection (Mopar Performance) makes some offset hangers but I do not think they will fit the F-M-J chassis (front ones).

 

[Locomotion]

Thank you for the info. I'm trying to get some ideas on what I can and can't do.
'68-'70 B-body 8 3/4" is in the plans and need to fit 10" rims with 9"x30" slicks. Looks like wheel offset needs to be pretty precise.

 

[Dago Red]

Stranger In a Strange Land

Myron! Is that you bud?

 

[Dago Red]

Crunch the Numbers

Myron the F-body spring hanger brackets (P4120081) have two front spring locater holes. I've used the standard 8 3/4 shock mounting plates and U-bolts with no shock alignment problems. The B-body spring locater holes are 44", while the F-body's are 44.45". I used the A-body 8/10's offset shackle kit (P4120075) to make up the angular difference. Fits like it was engineered for it. Using Cal-Tracs it would probably be better to move the perch holes out a 1/4" on each side for the geometry. 30" tires will require just a touch of work on the wheelhouses (I tried 30's and they rubbed, went back to 28's, no problems). The adjustable snubber fits and the rear drum brakes interchange.

 

[Locomotion]

Yea, Hi!. That's me! :hello:

I have a line on a '79 Aspen wagon deal and trying to get something together for next year. It's already a Stocker but needs a few things swapped around. I was wondering about the offset shackles but didn't know if they would be legal. I also wondered if the b-body perch difference and shackles might put the OEM located front spring eyes in a bind, especially if they are solid, because everything wouldn't be parallel. I figured I'd at least have to roll the rear fender lips pretty good to fit 30" Hoosier radials. It has 28 or 29" slicks now with SS springs & extensions. But I'm hoping to afford Cal-Tracs.

I've been wanting to try NHRA Stock before getting too old and without going broke. I'm on my 2nd bad year in a row in IHRA but plan to keep my IHRA combo. It's now or never.

 

[Dago Red]

Small World

It wouldn't be Mike Colaluca's out of north Texas? It's a good car.

 

[Locomotion]

I wouldn't mind having that car. But the one I'm looking at is here in Florida owned by Rebel Kidd. He's had a variety of F-bodies over the years and currently has a SS 318 SS Aspen 2 door. He built the wagon a few years ago. Nothing fancy and just a little under the index. But it's the most affordable way I can get my foot in the door of NHRA Stock.

 

[My imp]

Is that Pt. Charlotte by any chance? I converted a Chevy owner in the late '80's to F bodies after my wife's '66 Coronet handed his Blova it's arse!

 

[Locomotion]

Rebel Kidd near Lakeland. It's a black Aspen wagon. It won't be very fast, but hopefully be consistent. Sitting in a wagon is like being in a greenhouse. No blind spots!

 

[My imp]

This kid had those 4" gold letters on a black background (the ones you put on your mailbox from that said "Strictly Business". After I handed him his arse with the '66, my neighbor modified it a little to read,"Strictly Dickless"! But at least he bought an Aspen R/T! Go Mopar!

 

[4892stk]

Myron, Looking at build just like your's but starting with stock wagon myself. I was looking for this same info. Spent a while talking with John Irving about his wagon and some base ideas. What engine combo do you plan on running? Good luck with the combo.

 

[Locomotion]

Cool! I plan to run it as a '78 with a 360 in I/SA or maybe J/SA, but I hate all the weight. H/SA has too many cars in it. I've run 360's for a long time so I have many of the core parts needed - blocks, heads & cranks. Front shocks are an issue but there is a shock company that I contacted to ask about making some externally adjustable versions. They already have some about the right length, but the bottom mount needs a stud and they are fatter, which may cause clearance issues.

I did end up with some OEM length used aftermarket SS leaf springs (TriCity Competition -?) and Rancho rear shocks for the car. Still have the fuel cell, ballast box and 3" exhaust to finish. Not sure if I'll run the engine as-is or make a few changes because it's slow. But I have someone working on a fresh build specifically for this. A good engine guy, but new to class racing and all the rules. If I end up ,4 - .5 under the index, I'll be more than happy. I can't afford all the "tricks" to qualify high and set records. But it's consistency, predictability and reliability that wins most races.

Weren't the pics you posted a 2 door?