FI is long gone and dash don't work

J Body General Discussion

  1. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    Eventually, my cars will both get identical "4-bbl appearing" Fuel Injection installed. I want the cars to remain "stock appearing" (with air cleaners installed). I’ve been waiting for someone to make a 2-bbl appearing FI unit that which is bolt on and go – but hadn’t spent much time on the project recently (nor the $ to purchase a pair now).

    Holley has a Jeep BBD replacement system Sniper EFI BBD for Jeep CJ - Holley Performance Products but there is this weird attachment (red circle - pressure regulator?) in front that appears it might interfere with a 318 (possibly). Also, the throttle linkage is wrong (blue circle).
    550-84818221.jpg

    Sense you already have a 4-bbl intake, then the above paragraph won’t apply to you. Any one of the popular 4-bbl systems should work nicely for you. This article is 5 years old but still applies Car Craft's Giant EFI Test - Car Craft Magazine . The four systems tested are: MSD Atomic, Edelbrock E-Street, Fast-EFI and Holley Terminator.


    I went to Summit racing DODGE 5.9L/360 Mopar small block LA Fuel Injection and systems they had for sale were (low-end systems suitable for a stock to mild 318, priced low to high):
    Summit . SUM-240505 . $750 (all prices are listed in US dollars)
    FiTech Go EFI 600 . 30002 . $784
    FAST EZ-EFI . 30226-06kit . $920
    MSD Atomic EFI . 2910 . $1,000
    Holley Sniper . 500-516 . $1,000
    Edelbrock no longer makes the E-Street. The system they do sell is port fuel injection which starts at $1,500 and is a bigger job than you need (I think), especially for a stock or mild 318.


    A couple of years ago, I looked at the different options and was undecided between FiTech and FAST. The Summit system (first time I have seen it) has the best price. I’m sure the Summit system is made by one of the other manufacturers and rebadged – but can’t say for sure.

    Even though their systems might be top notch (maybe), I’m not a fan of MSD ignition nor Holley carburetors so most likely will not chose either system. That shouldn’t affect your decision, though. If you already have MSD ignition (which it doesn’t appear you do), the MSD FI set might be good.
    If a person was to create a poll, I would guess the Holley Sniper is the setup most here are currently using.


    To change subject a bit, when I was looking at FI setups, I decided to go with this style fuel pump with modified new fuel tanks. Not a fan of welding used fuel tanks plus the fact there is no telling how much rust (or other crud) is inside of a 40-year old tank. New fuel tanks (mid-year 79 to ’89) are the same.
    20160924_095536.jpg
    In my case, my (early) ’77 wagon tank (hump style) will need modification for the ’79-89 version tank to fit.
    Note: there might be other FI fuel pumps on the market that popped up in last couple of years.

    Note: all the 4-bbl appearing FI setups will need Chrysler Linkage adaptors to work correctly (which might already be installed on your current 4-bbl). Getting a FI (or Carburetor) to fit a Cheby is easy. Everyone else must buy (or make) additional parts.

    Note: I don’t want to spend the time, money or effort to change my 318’s to 4-bbl’s when both are getting big blocks installed later.

    Was this what you were asking about?
    BudW
     
  2. glennb49

    glennb49 Active Member

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    Yes , thanks for the detailed information! My 81 is still factory injected and has its share of hick ups as far as drivability, and dependability. I like the idea of the aftermarket fuel injection being a straight forward easy install, the car will look stock and technically still be injected. The price is the not too bad either!
     
  3. BudW

    BudW Moderator Staff Member

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    When I was at a dealer, we had one person approved, by Chrysler, to work on Imperial FI cars (only). If that person was out, the car(s) didn’t get worked on. General items like window motors, starters, etc. could be worked on by anyone, but those items specifically different about the Imperials were left to the specialist.

    It is my believe that electrical noise from overhead powerlines or close-by florescent lights (etc.) was causing electrical feedback to computer making them act up – but have zero knowledge that to be the case. Sense I know more about electronics than I did back then, it makes sense. I think if there is a way to shield the factory wiring harness, it “should” make a difference. On same note, I might be wrong with my theory.

    The new stuff appears to work very well, is reliable and is self-adjusting. In most cases, the replacement parts are readily available, as well (most use off the counter parts). Sense most of it fits under the air cleaner, it appears stock.


    What the guy did with the Imperial I saw a couple of years ago, he replaced the Imperial fuel injection with that from a pre-Magnum FI pickup. He kept all the factory parts, including the air cleaner – which he somehow modified to fit. He also put the ECM in front of the A/C condenser, so it left the underhood (mostly) unmodified. At first glance – it looked stock. He said the car runs great. The Imperial and the pre-magnum 318 pickup/vans FI use the same intake manifold. The V6 and 360 pickup/vans uses different intakes. Personally, I think the aftermarket 4-bbl appearing FI systems would be simpler and would give better power than the (either) factory system would – especially if you already have a 4-bbl intake on the car.

    Note: The Imperial and pickup/van pre-magnum intakes are cast iron and are quite heavy. The last thing I want to see of a fellow forum member laid up due to a bad back.
    BudW
     
  4. glennb49

    glennb49 Active Member

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    Thanks again, more fuel for thought!