If I get a boneyard or used pan it will have to be close enough for me to pick it up! Freight would be wayyyy too high if someone gave me the pan. Thanks though!
This second pic is of the rear cargo tire well in Old Yellow, my '78 Aspen wagon.
Me too! I've got a bunch of them!
Here they are, I generally used 18 Ga, but last time I went after plate all they had was 16 ga. which is good for enter of spare tire well on dusters, but too hard to fab other wise. I use poster paper to make a template, then just cut where I need and bend where I need. Time consuming. Main thing is be sure to get floor down on the subframe so it can be sport welded there like factory. I smallish anvil of 100 lbs works well to hold it down, weld the outsides last!! Seam sealer to finish it off. I clean the old metal with a big wire cup on a right angle grinder, clean, treat with Ospho ( phosphoric acid solution), DRY good!!! overnight, , epoxy primer or Rustoleum type tractor enamel or top coat with whatever.. Seals well.
Just fine a car guy with a mig welder and in 5 minutes he can teach you, you will be laying down a good bead. Half of it is learning the sound, the feel especially on thin metal. Biggest problem with what we do is mig does not like welding rusty metal, and when you have old thin metal and new metal, it takes some practice to be able to do it, BUT if you have gas run .021 wire,... burn a hole, just weld it back shut!!!!! $600 or less will buy you a decent small welder.
On my thread heavy metal hell raiser, you can see the use of b-body contoured floor pan used for my aspen
I repaired the seats couple months ago, the part under the seats were good and the rest was just the usual work of cutting, and shaping. I usually do such with most of my cars, takes more time but I can get them done. The reinforcing ribs are no big deal to me.
What year B-body?
