Gauge Panel Bulb Suggestions Wanted

greyghost

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I had the same basic trouble on my Aspen. All was well until I put the switch panel LED in, then the fuse would blow. The original socket needed a non COB metal base bulb. Finally I modified the switch panel to take a twist in 194 socket and removed the metal tube in the panel so a COB bulb would fit. No more blown fuse. What the exact cause was, don't really know. I've got the same non cob bulbs.in the radio and console shifter with no issues.
I also thought about that. The 194 twist-in socket would have to either have a wire coming out of it or a terminal to connect a wire to it. The twist-ins that I have are designed for use on a circuit board with a positive contact on one side and a negative contact on the other on the underside of the socket flange. Can you direct me to a specific place to get them from? In the mean time I'll see what kind of BS Google will throw at me!! ‍♂️
 

greyghost

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Click on "Reply" instead of "quote". Then you can type your reply under the gray quote box.
Thanx Aspen!! I think I found some twist style 194 sockets with pigtails. I have one more test I wanna do before I start ordering them and start modifying the spots where I'll need them!
 

Aspen500

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It's worth a try. Still don't really understand what the problem was with the metal base LED. No trouble with any of the others, regardless of the bulb type, just that one for the switch panel only. Wasn't like the fuse would open after awhile, it was instant, like a dead short to ground.
 

greyghost

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I got a 3rd but different style of bulb from Temu and it works in the plastic socket and fits into the metal tubes. There are 3 plastic sockets that fit into metal tubes. the headlight "title" lamp, the windshield wiper "title" lamp and the ashtray illumination lamp. I don't smoke and I don't allow smoking in my car so I don't NEED to find the ash tray at night so I left an incandescent bulb in that socket. What I found was that the LED that was blowing the fuse had a thicker tang and it took a little more force to push it into the socket. I truly believe that it was distorting the contacts in the socket to touch and thus causing a short. I have those LEDs plugged into the 4 instrument lamp sockets on the printed circuit boards. Distorted contacts? ‍:confused: That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
 

greyghost

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Thanx Aspen!! I think I found some twist style 194 sockets with pigtails. I have one more test I wanna do before I start ordering them and start modifying the spots where I'll need them!
The pig tailed sockets that I got would've worked fine if I was to cut off the metal tubes and make sure the hole that was left was 1/2" diameter. The rubber sockets fit like a rubber grommet. However, I got the new bulbs from Temu and did not have to modify the switch housings.
 

Justwondering

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greyghost -- would you post a picture of the type of bulb and the final look after install?
JW
 

greyghost

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I'll post a pic of the new LED bulb that works and fits into the metal tubes on the switch housings. I've put the switches back in but the screws are loose so it takes nothing to drop them back out and take some pics.
 

greyghost

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Here's some pics. The sockets that I had trouble with LEDs blowin' fuses have an orange wire connected to them. The new "cheapies" I got from Temu fit and they work. They're not quite as bright as the others but they do work and honestly, I'm tired of screwin' with it!!

Headlight And Wiper Switch Title Lamps1.JPG


Headlight And Wiper Switch Title Lamps2.JPG


Headlight And Wiper Switch Title Lamps3.JPG


194-LED Comparison6.JPG


194-LED Comparison7.JPG
 

greyghost

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which is the one you eventually went with?
JW
Looking at that last picture from left to right, the first bulb fits into the orange wire socket and then fits into the metal tube(s) on the back of the headlight switch and the back of the wiper switch. That bulb is generic, purchased in a 20 pack from TEMU for less than $3, 12V WHITE LED LIGHT T10 194 168 WSW 2825 COB LED (polarized). The second bulb I used as instrument cluster lighting (3 in and around the speedometer and fuel gauge. 1 for the alt/water temp cluster). This is the LED that would blow a fuse when used in the headlight and wiper switches. These came in a 10 pack from Amazon for about $10, Tomhasa 194 LED BULB WHITE 6 SMD-2835-W. The 3rd bulb is the first LEDs I bought, also from Amazon for about $10 for a 10 pack. These DID NOT fit into the metal tubes on the back of the headlight/wiper switches. I'm using these for the turn signals and idiot lights. This is a Marsauto 194 LED BULB 6000K WHITE 168 T10 2825 5 SMD.
The cheaper ones from TEMU will work in all 194 spots. They're sufficient but not quite as bright as the other 2 and is polarized whereas the other 2 are not. BTW the last bulb is a 194 incandescent.
Here's a pic of the results with the placement of the LEDs as I mentioned. I'm happy with this look! I have to do a bit more studying about my camera to take dark/night pics without a flash.

2.JPG
 
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Justwondering

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Wonderful journey ... thanks for taking us with you.
Pictures and write up are perfect for those of us still debating on changing out the lights.
JW
 

kkritsilas

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Had an interesting talk with a friend of mine regarding Walmart. He doesn't go to Walmart, saying that Walmart doesn't treat its employees properly, so he doesn't want to walk in there. I said that he buys tons of stuff and has them delivered by Amazon. He said Amazon was far better than Walmart towards its employees. WRONG. In a list of the top 150 employers in the US (by dollar volume), Walmart was listed at #147, which is bad enough. Amazon was listed at #150. Walmart has employee turnover of 97%. Amazon's employee turn over is 99.97%. So much for Amazon being a better employer than Walmart. On the other hand, its not like either are examples of good employee relations, but Amazon is still the worse of the two, although having been to Walmart, it is hard to imagine how.
 
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